Rs2000 Sump And Pinto Oil Pick-up Pipe

[peter_m7uk]

I got an RS2000 sump from e-bay to get something a bit shallower

for my 2.0 pinto engine. I assumed that you could just use the pinto

oil pick-up pipe by removing the strainer, cutting the pipe and brazing

it back on again, a la North West Hoodies. However, after removing the

strainer and cutting the pipe a bit, I now think a special pick-up is needed

for the RS2000 sump! Just to see, I went back on e-bay posing as an

interested buyer and asked a couple of sellers about this exact problem.

I've had 2 replies so far telling me that I can use the standard pick-up,

but I reckon the distance from oil pump to the 90 degree bend is too

short and the strainer will touch the bowl, meaning that the RS2000 sump

can't be fitted. Anyone give me a definitive answer on this???

 

Cheers,

 

Pete

 

(PS I have my Lightweight order form and £250 deposit poised and

ready to post!)

[Guest TerryBarry]

The RS2000 sump I have came with the pick-up pipe.

The sump should have an internal baffle with a hole in it through which the strainer fits.

Here's a pic' of the RS pick-up pipe fitted to the engine

[Guest Jim Poole]

The standard sierra pick-up won't fit without a lot of modification. I tried it and found it better to give up and buy yet another RS2000 sump this time complete with pick-up.

:boohoo:

 

So a few notes later...we live and learn...

[peter_m7uk]

Cheers chaps. That pic definitely looks different to mine. Now I have to decide --

Wait for a pick-up pipe to appear on e-bay, or sell my sump and buy another with pipe included.....

 

Pete

[Grim]

what did you pay for your sump?

[peter_m7uk]

£70

[Guest chris brown]

£70 Why when what you need is a sump with at least 3mm steel on the base of it so it can slide in the speed bumps (and it will) surely a standard sump modified as Jims write up on the NW site is much cheaper and stronger.

[Guest salty_monk]

or a sump guard... worked for me

[Guest salty_monk]

This post might explain this... maybe the 2L one was off an RS...

[peter_m7uk]

Looks to me more like the 1.6L is from an RS!

[Big Jim]

Actually guys, you'll probably find the differences are only due to "part supply problems" at the manufacturer, or even dual sourcing the bits. A common practice throughout the motor industry. that removes the problem of Ford not being able to build due to "Fred Bloggs Engineering" going bust / on strike (1970's) / or major breakdown.

 

I've done loads of sumps, and have come across both types of pipe and gauze filter, either is fine for the steel sump, but you'll need the correct one for the RS sump as it has to go through an internal baffle.

The RS sump is slightly lower than a modified one (so is still closer to the ground!), it will crack if hit, it's a lot harder to fit on a mark 3 / 3a type car (engine in car) as it has to go up to the engine perfectly straight (to get the oil pipe through the baffle) you can't wriggle it it like a steel one.

There's also a couple of webs that get in the way and need grinding off (if I remember correctly) and it's dearer.

[Guest keith ingram]

It has been suggested to me that I could fit a sump from a Capri to my 2 litre Pinto S7 as this will improve ground clearance.

 

Clearly from the above discussion this is not nearly as simple as I might have first supposed.

 

My welding skills are sadly not up to a DIY sump conversion as per the NW web site.

 

I think I'll drive with care and if I want high ground clearance buy myself a landrover.

[Guest lussjeeper]

Hi folks - interested in the above string, as I got my part-built 3a with the pinto engine in with the unmodded sump. It's on the to-do list, but I'm ignoring it at the moment due to the pressing need to build the rest of the car before taking steps backwards......

 

A couple of questions please, do I pick up that the standard sump can be dropped and refitted on a 3a with the engine in-car, even with a bit of hassle? If so what pitfalls should I watch out for?

 

Sump guard - was that a reference to a guard on a standard-drop sump or after modification?

 

Many thanks.

 

Dave P

[Guest MrT]

Try Old Fords on 01592 882801

 

Paul

[Big Jim]

do I pick up that the standard sump can be dropped and refitted on a 3a with the engine in-car, even with a bit of hassle? If so what pitfalls should I watch out for?

Yes it can, BUT if you've still got the anti-roll bar fitted, it may need to be unbolted to allow it to drop down a bit (put the car on stands or something first)

you'll need to remove the silencer from the 4/1, remove the top & bottom water hoses, depending how close the fan is you may need to remove the radiator. Undo the nuts (19mm socket) on the tops of the engine mountings. then by jacking under the bell housing (piece of wood on top of jack) wriggle the engine slightly until you've got it up as far as it goes, the exhaust and bell housing will stop it going any further (NOTE, don't jack it up any more after it's touched, or you can distort the panel around the exhaust "hole")

Remove the starter motor, then all the bolts that secure the sump, now hit it with a hammer to release it from the engine (you have obviously drained it first!) you'll find that it won't come out because it catches on the engine "underfloor" near the front of the engine bay. Look where this needs to be relieved and grind it away with the disc grinder. DON'T grind into the skids that have the engine mounting "boxes" welded to, these are the strength bits. you can actually grid the floor bits level with the skids no problem.

The sump will them come down with a bit of wriggling.

When replacing, don't use silicone or anything like that, use some grease to stick the gasket to the block. get ALL the bolts started before you begin tightening any.

After a couple of weeks of running the car, just retighten the bolts again.

 

In the photo, you can see that mine has been ground back to the "skids" (the engine mounting box has also been removed to alter ready for the Vauxhall engine.