What Rh Chassis Do I Have

[Guest mark kingston]

well bob i must be the exception i have no spacers fitted on my 2b sliding pillar set up and have used the rhe supplied alloy wheels with no problems.... so it can be done.

regards

Mark Kingston

[Guest Battery Bill]

Mmm

We did not have any spacers fitted to our 2nd Hood and they were clear of the Wheel and Tyre , but as you can see we don't have any clearance issues right now

[Guest mark kingston]

umm what have you done bill????

no going back now.

i nshall watch with interest the progress.

regards

Mark

 

[Guest chriszxr750]

hi all

right more silly questions.

apart from the stainless steel panels, is there any thing else you can fit ie fibreglass?

now the reason i ask this is i image that the old stainless gets very dirty quickly and is a pain to clean. am i right? or is it me being lazy!(please insert comments here.)

old and seeing as there is talk about spacers fitted to the front suspension, my problem is the wheel looks to be rubbing on the spring, this is only happening on the drivers side.

now both tyres are the same size .

any ideas out there

so much for a quick turn around the person who built this must of been a cowboy as there are so many things that look bodged, still there we go, wont take long to strip it back to the chassis and do it again, but right this time.

cheers chris

[Guest chris brown]

apart from the stainless steel panels, is there any thing else you can fit ie fibreglass?

If you want a plastic car then a Hood is not for you as for cleaning stainless just wash then use cheap window cleaner. In fact having owned a "plastic" (fibreglass) car prior to the Hood I think the Hood is easier to keep clean than the plastic one.

[Guest chriszxr750]

thanks for that.

the only reason i sort of asked is that the previous builder of the car had , for some reason, coated all the panels in red primer, or black paint, propably hammerite.

i would have thoought that if it was stainless why did he, or she do that to the bodywork???????

still thanks again

chris

[Guest chris brown]

previous builder of the car had , for some reason, coated all the panels in red primer,

Are you sure it is stainless and not mild steel?

[Guest chriszxr750]

i assume that it was stainless because i did not realise that it would have come in any thing else. ignorance i know!!!!

but as they say to assume is to make the mother of all cockups!!!!!!

still they made a bodge of it. they used tin in places.

[Guest chris brown]

i assume that it was stainless because i did not realise that it would have come in any thing else.

Mild steel was the standard kit with optonal extras being stainless pannels (£200+Vat) and chassis (£200+Vat) double wishbone (£150+Vat)

[Bob Tucker]

Chris,

the sliding pillars can be fitted in a few different locations (builders preference!!)

& it may just be that the builder has set each side differently.

 

I made sure my camber & caster was identical each side by drilling & grinding the slots both inward & rearward. After that the drivers tyre just touched the spring. 5MM spacers fixed that.

All that fettling was only needed because the chassis wasnt jigged & welded spot on in the first place.

 

We have all used fill in pieces to cover various gaps in the factory panels. The most obvious is the gap in the seat back panel by the driver & passenegers shoulders. Then there is a gap facing forward inside the rear wheel arches.

 

Any joins or patches will be covered effectively by carpet in any case, so dont worry about them.

HTH Bob.

[Guest salty_monk]

All 4 wheels on my slimey pillock had spacers... 5 mm on front 10 mm on back from memory or may have been vice versa. Obviously longer studs were needed too...

[Guest rizla]

dans comments are on stud length is very important,just ask swan who lost a wheel

[Guest chriszxr750]

right now what i like to know next is i am going to change all the mild steel panel to stainless steel. but i would like to have a fixed scuttle, unlike what is as present, ie it lifts with the bonnet and the front nose.

can i do this? if so what kit do i ahve to go for if i can.

at present i have decide to strip the car down to the chassis and start doing it again. hence having to get al new panels.

still there we go

any help is appreciated.

thanks chris

[Swan Jnr]

dans comments are on stud length is very important,just ask swan who lost a wheel

exciting stuff i can tell you, especially when one of the sheared off studs hits you in the chest on its ways back to earth!