magh

I’m going to check the v5 in the morning but I’m 99% certain it’s listed on there. 
 

I do I have a pipercross px600 filter I did think about leaving it off to allow as much air into them as possible 

I’ll have a look but I’m sure it’s 3.5 as i only did the Iva in 2018. 

Afternoon all unfortunately the kit failed it’s mot last week one of which was emissions the co failed at I think around 4.7 when it has to be under 3.5

its been stood over a year for various reasons and it’s running r1 carbs. When it was set up by Bogg brothers I think it was 2.8 or something. 
 

I’ve cleaned the carbs and put new plugs in and slightly turned the air fuel mixture screws for idle. Sadly as it has no mot i can’t drive it to get them set up and the mot garage won’t touch the carbs. I’m back in the morning for a retest and just wondered as it’s unburnt fuel causing the issue would increasing the idle speed help at all along with me already lowering the a/f mixture screws or would the increase in revs create more vacuum and jn return pull more fuel anyway? Thanks all

Thanks to all that replied. 
 

just an update I ordered the 20.6 and all good thank you. 
 

I changed both the rear cylinders at the same time last night took less than 30 mins for both then bled the system so back up and running again. 
 

just need to get the CO emissions down and it’s will pass it’s retest

Mine is the first option with the holes side by side but that comes in a 20.6mm and 22mm 

Evening all unfortunately the kit failed it’s mot on Friday one of which was the brakes. It has been laid up for 18months mind

been over them all today cleaning all sliding pins etc and when I pulled a rear drum off one of the cylinders has started to weep so that won’t be helping. Now what part do I need as some are 20.6mm bore and others are 22mm

im running standard Sierra upfront and don’t have a servo just the Ford ka master. 
 

thanks all. 

I purchased an adaptor ring for mine to run a quick release with my old mountney. 
 

it wasn’t cheap but a brilliantly made product from bg racing and gives lots of options. 

Hi sorry not logged in for a while. Sadly not this ended with weeks and weeks of waiting for a replacement that I was promised would have spare material left on it and it finally arrived a couple of months later and still wasn’t anywhere near right so I just made my own from scratch 

I have r1 carbs on my pinto and run a pipercross px600 filter no problems and doesn’t hit the bonnet. 

A friend of mine purchased one 2 years ago as part of the caterham academy. He opted to do the build himself. I popped in just after it was delivered and the chassis came with engine and box installed all brake lines ran side panels all fitted and most of the wiring installed. It took him around 3 weeks to complete the full car. I must say it is easier when you attach part D to F using supplied fixings XYZ. there was no thinking how the hell am I going to make that fit and where and with a non existent bracket that needed fabricating. 

I have the smiths telemetrix gauges. They wiring diagrams are all online. The following is the tachometer. 
https://www.caigauge.com/documents/product-instructions/tachometers/pil055-iss2-279.pdf

Matthewsons isn’t far from me. Nothing ever goes cheap there. The other year they sold an original Mini Cooper that was completely rusted  and only purchased for the vin number really made silly money and headlines in quite a few motoring papers. 

Generally I’ve found that to be a bad cell. But yup new battery time. 

New electric garage door replace the old up and over which means having to move what ever vehicle is parked I front of it. Gets fitted next week, it’s the lazy things lol. 

I have pretty much that exact layout and can see the water, oil and fuel fine when driving. On the 2B the tubes behind the dash almost dictated where my dials would actually fit. 

I’d say that looks great! Don’t forget to order some arch trim similar to P trim and it nips between the rear arch and body work it just hides the little bits where it doesn’t quite sit flush and in my opinion really finishes it off! 
 

You may well of seen my orange 2B whilst at gbs as it’s getting some accident repair work carried out. 

I followed the tutorial on nw hoods on fitting the side panels. Took my time and all went well. 

I have the cad drawings of the panels so you could get a new rear panel cut drop me a message if you want a copy. If you do go the other route drop me a message on the suspension upgrade I may be interested cheers mike. 

I’ve always fancied giving Gtechniq G1 a go seems to have really good reviews. I too tried rain-x on the kit and made no difference unless at higher speeds. 

From memory I think the max distance between fixings is 300mm so anything less is great. I ran fuel and brake lines down one side and electrics down the other side. 

How have you found the upgraded handling pack? 

Very nice work my kit was originally Oxford blue and now orange good choice

As above that’s a shortened sump so fill to max level. I think from memory mine is about 2.5 litres. 

I just ordered the front flexis for the 2b on kitspares which fit fine length wise. I then mounted through the side panel in a place giving me the correct amount of hose required for full lock but not too much to fowl anything.

I went along the lines of the metal plaster corner trim riveted to the wing stay and a generous amount of tiger seal to bond it down and that’s it. Has held perfectly including when someone drove into the side of my kit in July and smashed the arch bent the wing bracket and knocked the steering out but the arch is still stuck on well lol.