ivorbigun

the heater relay is most probably in the ecu mounted on the circuit board

I have a load of ecu's at my workshop I'll open one up tomorrow and have a look. might even have a rover one.

Piece of wire from battery + terminal to small connector on starter if nothing happens = dead starter/solenoid

thanks everyone I think I'll probably wait for a 2lt zetec to come along shouldn't be to long as I have first dibs on major MOT failures from one garage and px's from a car sales.

enjoy Stoneleigh shame I cant be there to introduce myself to you all (or it may be a blessing for you all) have fun.

Yeh just found that out although Caterham married them to a type 9 apparently does that mean that the mx5 gearbox would work ?

I can see I'm going to spend most of the weekend researching this,

thanks duck

Anyone know anything about these or used one in a RWD configuration ? Got first dibs one a whole rusty low mileage car was thinking of putting it in the dutton , will it mate to a mt75 box?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

all's well that end's well.

Used to be able to get them bench tested at most lucas parts places don't know if you still can?

Charging System Diagnosis

The following general information has been assembled as a guide for charging system diagnosis. Refer to the appropriate Original Equipment Manufacturers service manual for specific information pertaining to charging system diagnostic procedures and safety precautions for your vehicle.

Bench testing

If an alternator test bench is available, follow the procedures found in the bench testers instruction manual to conduct an alternator performance test. This test will determine if the alternator output is within its performance specification, preventing unnecessary alternator replacement.

If the alternator output is within specification during bench testing, resolve problems in the remainder of the vehicles charging circuit and other electrical circuits that may affect charging circuit performance. Refer to the appropriate vehicle manufacturers service manual for the procedures and circuit schematics necessary to identify and correct additional charging circuit problems.

If the test bench results show the alternators output performance to be out of specification, replace the alternator. Follow the vehicle manufacturers recommended procedures to inspect the remainder of the charging circuit and other electrical circuits that may affect charging circuit performance.

NOTE: If the bench test identifies the regulator as defective, it may be possible to replace the regulator (internal or external) and return the alternator to service. If the regulator is replaced and the alternator returned to service, follow the vehicle manufacturers recommended procedures to inspect the remainder of the charging system and other electrical circuits that may affect charging circuit performance.

Whether or not a test bench was used to determine the condition of the alternator, the following Helpful Tips have been assembled to help isolate conditions that may affect charging circuit performance.

Helpful Tips

What is the condition of the battery?

A visual inspection and a performance test of the battery must always be performed before inspecting the charging system. The battery must be fully charged (12.6 volts) and the battery cables, terminals and case in good, clean condition. This includes the frame and body grounds as well (refer to Battery Visual Inspection and Performance Testing).

Does a charge lamp, amperage (amp) gauge or voltmeter indicate a charging system problem?

Charge Lamp:

Ignition ON engine not running

The charge lamp should illuminate.

Ignition ON engine running

The charge lamp should illuminate briefly then turn OFF.

Weak Battery

A weak battery can cause the charge lamp to illuminate during high amperage draw.

Low Idle

A low idle can cause the charge lamp to illuminate dimly.

Poor Wiring

Corroded, broken, loose or frayed wires/ connections could cause the charge lamp to illuminate during idle.

Open Charge Lamp

Some charging systems will not properly operate if the charge lamp bulb fails.

Amp Gauge:

Ignition ON engine not running

The amp gauge should read zero or slightly below.

Ignition ON engine running

The amp meter should display a current output above zero. It will display a different level of charge depending on what electrical circuits are operating. A negative charge indicates the battery is discharging more quicklythan the charging system can supply current.

Wires and connectors

Corroded, broken, loose or frayed wires/connections could cause zero or erratic readings on the gauge.

Voltmeter:

Ignition ON and engine not running

Gauge readings should be between 12.0 and 12.6 volts with the ignition ON and the engine not running. Readings below 12 volts could indicate insufficient charging, low battery, corroded,

broken, loose or frayed wires/connections.

Ignition ON and engine running

Gauge readings should be between 13.0 and 14.5 volts with the ignition ON and the engine running. A reading exceeding 14.5 volts could indicate a bad battery, failed regulator or poor wire

connections. A reading below 13.2 volts could indicate a failed alternator or corroded, broken, loose or frayed wires/connections.

Are any fuses open?

Check the fuses in all the fuse box(es). An open fuse indicates circuit problem(s) that may have an effect on the charging circuit. Check the owners manual or the manufacturers service manual for the location of each fuse box.

Is the fusible link(s) open?

There may be several fusible links controlling

battery voltage to the vehicles electrical circuits. If a fusible link is open, supply voltage will be completely lost to all electrical systems or to the electric circuit(s) that the open fusible link controls. Check the owners manual or the manufacturers service manual for the location of each fusible link.

Is the alternators drive belt tension within specification?

Too loose

If the drive belt is too loose, it will slip around the pulley causing the alternator to charge irregularly or not at all.

Too tight

If the drive belt is too tight, internal bearing damage will cause premature alternator failure.

Is the alternators drive belt in good condition and the proper size?

Worn or too narrow

If the alternators drive belt is worn or too narrow, it will slip around the pulley, causing the alternator to charge irregularly or not at all.

New drive belt

The life of a new alternator drive belt is approximately 10 minutes. It is important to check and adjust the belts tension to the used specification after the initial 10 minutes of operation.

Has the vehicle been modified or additional equipment installed after it left the factory?

Accessories

Non-factory accessories such as phones, computer outlets, televisions, refrigerators, stereo equipment or lights, among others, can overburden alternator performance and cause premature failure.

Improper accessory installation

Improper accessory installation procedures can cause charging problems. Some of these problems may include poor ground points, loose connections or improper wiring.

Has any work been performed on the vehicle?

Electrical ground points

Check the ground circuits between the battery and engine and also from the vehicle body to the frame for high resistance. Many times when a vehicle has been repaired, the ground point(s) are disturbed or not re-secured properly.

Multiple electrical grounds

With multiple ground vehicles, each electrical circuit is assigned to one or more ground points. A poor ground at one ground point may cause feedback through another ground point causing unusual circuit activity.

Just a generic sheet we used to give to the apprentices HTH

Found issue nut that goes on motor where cables enter was loose and sliding up cable all sorted thanks

nice and easy then that makes a change

Thanks, can't get back down to the garage till next Thursday but will have a good look round it then.

you don't need to get it up on a ramp just reach under behind the wheels and push and pull the drive shafts they should move in and out a few mm's I had a customers car dislodge a cv joint on the 2 post ramp once gave similar sounding symptoms to yours

good luck

Also as it's been wheels free on the mot ramp check your drive shafts from the diff to the wheels make sure they have movement side to side HTH

Nice piece of 2.5mm ho7 rnf cable good for 30amps per core momentarily !! Be ok to get you home but that's about it,

having had a kit car catch fire that's scary (not my fault I hasten to add)

2 pack's only around £30-40 per 5lt I would think that would do the same job not tried it though might give it a go when I get round to doing the dutton tank. (mk1 escort that's had water in the bottom )

mind you would fiberglass resin do the same job ?

Used to use old style cellulose paint to seal rusty motorcycle tanks my mates Norton is still OK after 15+ year's used to put a couple of pints in roll it around and tip out the excess and repeat 2 or 3 times

you'd have to be dammed sure before you bought it!!

Hi steamer I have a manual and parts list on cd if you'd like one, pm me your address and I'll post you a copy .

don't know what you paid for it but looks like a bargain, I only managed to get the basic model I.E. no power feed coolant tray etc but at least I have the J2 head, I've added a power feed to the x axis and picked up a slotting attachment on the bay fairly cheap love to get a CNC one one day. it does for my skill level though ie still an apprentice at 58

http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/slowzim?_trksid=p2053788.m1543.l2754 Here's Richards ebay profile doesn't have anything for sale at the moment but might respond to a message .

he's the guy that designed them.

He told me to get in touch if I ever needed any help, you never know yer luck

Thought this was supposed to be a frendly place but as with all forums it attracts the bullies and some of the biggest A holes your ever likely to come across !!!!!!!!!

it's all here

http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2001/561/part/II/made

sold sold sold

2B chassis is stiffer than a Caterham its in here somewhere

http://www.johnskitcar.com/

yes to both

I run my mill and lathe at the same time on a 3hp one.

but if you have a J2 head ( J1 is change belt on pulleys J2 is variable pulley controlled by a small handle ) it makes no difference that you would notice I certainly don't.

course you could go line shaft and stationary steam engine (;=}]

Ivan, really appreciate your input and I'm starting to sway towards the transwave rotary converter.

 

Looking at the link on your last post, it shows a big blue box with what looks like a red 32amp socket. If I was to buy this type of converter, is it as simply as feeding 240volts into the box and then plugging the milling machine into the red socket (change the terminals to star)....and when doing this, my dro's and power feed will work as well?

exactly. if your mill has been running on 415v three phase then it's just plug and play. my friend who has a shed near mine uses my rotary to run a £10,000 copper wire granulator/separator which has electronic control and 4 motors again just plug and play

have a look on Ebay etc picked mine up cheep was dam lucky though

yep 200v or 400v

 

dont know how the power feed and dro are wired but normally they are all connected into the termanal box on the side wich will then feed the power feed and dro and motor. then adjustments in the motor termanal box to alow for 400v or 200v. when you get the serial number of the machine will be able to get wiring dirgrams.

 

depends if you want a motor spinning a generator in the cornor to create 415v, yes more then 1 device can be installed to a rotary but there is no controll over the output.

ditigal can only really have one machine conected to it as you set it up to that machine, but you have a lot more control over that machine.plus are more energy efficant.

rotary converters are NOT a motor spinning a generator they've move on since the dark ages,

have a read of this, there's loads more info on their site.

^{http://www.powercapacitors.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/RT1_rotary_converter_literature_overview.pdf}

if I had to buy a VFD for every machine I want to run on single phase it would cost more than a single rotary converter and I also have machines that are not duel voltage I.E. star delta, so wont run on a VFD. and don't forget there's no neutral with a VFD

I was always taught to think of the future.

It's horses for courses.