cb750

I have for sale a new pair of ebc sierra front ventilated discs, dimpled and grooved. Numbers gd086L & R. 240mm. Zinc plating has some slight flecks due to storage but no problem as the plating comes off when the brakes are applied. £50 Also new pair of track control arms for the sierra produced by Firstline. Forging finish is different between left and right if that matters to you. £30 Postage is extra but I will be going to Newark on Saturday so could bring them with me. Rob

That's a good link! If that doesn't help it may be blocked idle jet or badly worn spindle bushes such that the mixture screw is having little effect.

Paul, are you going to Newark I will copy yours! If not I will have a look round at Newark and get measuring. Thanks Rob

If yours is the sierra column with the triangular lower part I had a clunk after fitting the new bearing mod. I found that my shaft moved fractionally in and out of the plastic bush as the UJs turned. As the bush was a tight fit on the shaft when it finally moved it produced a clunk, I sprayed some white grease on to it (wd40 might work as well) and the noise went.

My hood framework was missing when I bought my car ( series 3A ). Has anyone got one or knows anyone who may have one for sale? .

Problem solved! Fitted Fiat 132 master cylinder (19mm bore) which takes a remote reservoir instead of the Ka master cylinder, can get the bonnet to close now. Helpful seller off ebay brought 2 types round to the house to see which one was the better fit!

The width I've got on an ad for them says they are 510mm wide, if so they wouldn't fit in my series 3 (my passenger side is 470mm). Let us know if you can get them in yours.

I need to fit remote reservoirs to the KA master cylinder I have fitted to my series 3 (can't fit the bonnet!). Has anyone fitted these and if so what fittings did you use to connect the reservoirs to the master cylinder ports?

You may be right, When I tried to access the site this morning I got the message "unable to open as too many redirects" . When I finally got access there were no posts after the 22nd April visible.

My for sale advert has disappeared! Server problem this morning? I have for sale a new pair of ebc sierra front ventilated discs, dimpled and grooved. Numbers gd086L & R. 240mm. Zinc plating has some slight flecks due to storage but no problem as the plating comes off when the brakes are applied. £50 Also new pair of track control arms for the sierra produced by Firstline. Forging finish is different between left and right if that matters to you. £30 Postage is extra but I will be going to Stoneleigh on Sunday so could bring them with me. Rob

All my welding was done (professionally) yesterday to strengthen the tub so I can now get down to the tie bar mounting. Fitted polybushes to the TCAs, can hardly twist them now! Got nice shiny stainless angle made up for reinforcing the side of the tub plus 50x25x3mm box section for the cross member. Going to refit the brake discs and wheels to check what clearance I have for the tie rod brackets, may have to fit stops on the steering rack. Downloaded the pdfs (thanks Peter) Rob

Thanks Nigel. As everything is new I thought if I let the TCA take up its natural fore and aft position the castor would be nearly correct. It looks like I will be buying a gauge earlier than I thought or is there a home method? I still think I will be forcing the original tie bar over too much on my car. Can't do anymore to this yet as I am preparing the car ready to get some welding and strengthening done once this snow clears. It's about a foot deep outside the garage! Rob

Paul, I thought they were too short as well but they match mower man and the Andrews site drawings (272mm from the end to the step at the tca plus about 40mm for the rose joint). The TCAs are brand new sierra ones fitted the right way round, the rubber bushes are what were supplied pressed into place by the manufacturer. There seems to be 2 types of bush being used and I have the crap ones! One of the previous owners had fitted the bars to brackets which were bolted to the sides of the car without any reinforcing, the sides started to push in so he or she took them off and replaced them with the steel angle that is currently fitted. This is going to come off and be replaced with a system similar to yours. The holes for the original brackets are still there and the rear one is just in line with the engine mounting tower. Poly bushes are a good upgrade, I put them all round on my Triumph Stag and they improved the handling no end! Problem with doing this to this car at the moment is that it will make it even more difficult to force the tie bar over to meet its mounting point. A plus point would be that it gets rid of the suspect bushes, I was thinking they may have been moulded off-centre. Rob

Thanks for that, just what I needed. Rob

Thanks but I have the plans from mowerman and the rods are identical to the rods that are fitted to mine except my rosejoints are 1/2 UNF. I think either that my rosejoint location point must be too close to the body (I can correct that when I alter the current mounting to a better one) or that I have to accept that the rods have to be forced out of line for now.

Just a quick query, can't find the answer by searching the forum boards. S7 3A - the front dummy struts have an offset, which way round do the dummy struts go? Took photos before stripping the car down but now realise that the previous owner had one side inserted the opposite way to the other!

Simon, the bushes are what were fitted in the new track control arms. I have 2 sets of new TCAs and both have these type of bushes. I also have a genuine Ford TCA and this has the same bush. My main problem is that with either type of bush the tie bar is going to have to be forced out of line to meet the bracket (I'm replacing the crap piece of steel angle anyway but I need to get the new fabrication right!)

Couldn't post yesterday, I went to my eye specialist for a check up and came out worse than I went in - blinding headache and couldn't focus on anything until late. OK now though so here goes: Posted 2 pics showing the problem and the type of bush in the TCA. The old rose joint is fitted in these photos. Length of rod from the step to the rose joint centre is approx 31.5 cm, (12 1/2 inch). Had a look at the old TCA bushes, these are the conical type and they were badly distorted and worn oval due, I suspect the excessive twist on the tie bar. My new TCAs have the pressed in bushes as shown on one of the pics. These are really firm and resist movement quite a lot such that when you push sideways on the tie rod it pushes the TCA straight out of alignment and loads up the inner bush. Spoke to Rally Design about there compression strut kits but the length is too great (any reinforcing box section would foul the sump. Also you remove the TCA bushes and bolt the swivel joint straight into the TCA. This might be OK for competion work but I would have thought it feed any bump right into the body. Next step is to get to the stage where I can fit the wheel and see where it fouls Rob

I will post a photo tomorrow plus measurement

Thanks just sent him a pm!

I don' t know which section to post this BUT Just noticed that I have been downgraded to community user! Since I joined late 2012 and my subscription was to include 2013 membership why is this? does this explain why I have not received my magazines?

Another day and another problem! When I took the tie bars off my 3A during this rebuild the rose joints mounted on the body bracket OK but the track control arm rubbers were badly twisted in the arm. I have now rebuilt the front suspension with all new ball joints, TCAs, and rack. Come to refit the tie bars and the rose joints want to locate further out from the body (about 95mm) unless you force them over to the original location and this then pulls the TCAs outer rubber bush out of line and twists the TCAs on the inner bush. Anyone else have this problem? I will be redesigning the mounting brackets anyway but making them stick out further will look a bit weird! Rally Design and Burton Power sell compression struts with a clevis arrangement near the tca end to allow for repositioning the tie bar rod at different angles to the body, has anyone used these? Rob

Paul, I will let you know by PM if I succeed! My wishbones and other bits are away being powder coated at the moment, hope to get things sorted in about 2 weeks. Rob

Paul, mine has the grease nipple mod and the threaded bar has turned in the chassis at some point in the past causing the chassis holes to elongate slightly. I am changing the setup to use an M16 HT nut and bolt with spacer tube for the wishbone bearings to rotate on. This will allow the nut and bolt to be able to tighten fully. (On my car the original setup has to be slackened to allow the wishbone to move and this had allowed the threaded bar to rotate). With the the correct length bearing spacer tube and flanged bushes I will be able to tighten the M16 bolt fully and the wishbone will still be able to move with just a small endfloat The penny washer pack will remain (bored out or changed to suit the M16 bolt) to allow caster adjustment in the future. I already have the right size plain bronze bushes ("collected" about 30 years ago "just in case") but I was thinking of turning flanged nylon bushes from 40mm bar. The flange would give less friction when the wishbone rubs against the washer pack. The nylon may also give a bit of "give" to the setup!

I am changing the design of the front top wishbone chassis pivot stud and nylon bushes on my 97 series 3A. I will be turning up new bushes and was thinking of using bronze for them. Has anyone used bronze for these or is it better to stick with the original nylon material?