Snapperpaul

If Mat does'nt take the cycle wing brackets id like them if they fit a series 3. Thanks.

Thanks. On the series 3 i am running the fuel down the passenger side overhang and the brakes and electrics down the other.

I have spent a good couple of hours searching throught the threads and have found measurment from 100mm to 300mm. Now if i have to i will secure Fuel and brake lines and the loom at the shortest distance. So those of you that have passed the dreaded SVA what are the distances you have used.

It's a 1997 series 3, un built and came with Full wet gear and Tonneau and i will fit it all but most of the time i will be open to the elements, so sou'wester and gaffer tape then.

Taken me years to get past the silly stage and have paid the price in the past. Over the past 10 years I have had to travel around 40,000 miles a year half on business and half private ( divorce etc.) to save on petrol i bought a nackered escort deisel,waste gate used to stick so it was quick, then the waste gate stuck open. The upshot of this is that i have had to learn to drive very smoothly to keep the speed up, antisipate a very long way ahead, and If some one wants to overtake on a bend let them go and live to fight another day. The Hood for me will be that extra exceleration, just to watch that annoying tailgater or Saxo chav disappear and to go swiftly round the bendy bits unlike the capsizing boat handling of the Galaxy..... As long as the Devil doesn't get me again!

After being caught in the rain today ( not in the Hood thats still warm, dry and half built) I thought, "What am I going to need when I finaly get on the road". Irvine flying jacket? not quite the style statement I'm ready to make and they cost a bit. Kart suit? possibly open to a bit of ridicule (unless you are coming back from a track day and dont care) My old dry suit (scuba) but I will look like an 80's Dr Who monster and if you get caught short, well i will leave that to your imagination. What works, What do you use?

The Specs cameras cannot be detected by radar or laser detectors so to have a chance you need active detectors and acurate map based info

I bought a PDA with Tom Tom GPS, and down loaded a Points of Interest program for free that has the fixed speed camera sites. Costs about £280 but i get Sat Nav and a mini computer as well. I still cant detect lasers and mobiles and with the miles i do I am looking for a reasonable detector.

Thanks John I read it................. The thread was interesting and a little less anti than the replies to this one, however more ideas and more experiences to take on board. The best solution so far that i have experienced is a good set of side screens that fit well with a large perspecs area, feels like you are open but don't get the wind. My aims with this build are... 1. get it built. 2.don't spend loads (elephant ears were £10) . pass the bl**dy SVA. 4. Drive it. and finaly add all those details that are the joint possitive experiences of the club members.

I am always looking for ideas from the big manifactures as they can afford to spend big bucks getting it right ( not all the time I know ) and have been pondering on the wind diffuser that a lot of them have behind the seats, usually cliped to the roll bar. Perspecs would be cheap enough and easy to fit to a hood, but would it act as another air brake. Or the other solution i have seen, a sort of strong, taught, net. I have been in hood with and without side screens on and feel that unless you have a lid on, it's got to be side screens and have seen the deflectors on the Northern Hoods site. Also the Cobra type side deflectors, any good? i have just picked up a set.

Nice one Jim.

I see now, the fulcrum point raised reduces travel more at the shorter end. For my car i will use a bit of both, not to much at the short end and a couple of inches, for the look of it, at the knob end. Phnaar, Phnaar.

I need help to get my head round this one, all the posts so far i understand however my solution was going to be to just cut the gear stick shorter thus reducing the throw or does this make gear selection to stiff. I remember a drive in a Piper kit a couple of centuries ago and the gearstick was about 3 inches

A hood is a two seater so i'll just borrow this two person tent then.

Anything that puts a restriction and reduces the noise ( unless it's a bigger can with more absorbtion) will cost in power terms, however unless you are in persuit of numbers, it shouldn't make a noticable difference.

With out a vernier pully you can only move the cam relative to the crank 1 tooth on the cam pully at a time either side. you may or may not be lucky as it is quite a big jump in cam timing terms. The vernier cam pullies allow you to "Dial in the cam" very acurately. Usualy you get the best benefit by tuning on a rolling road experimenting with settings around the manafacturers recomendations. The distibutor has a big effect and ultimately (Megajolt & Megasquirt look a good option) some electronic control will release a bit more BHP.

Ford Galaxy Power at Flywheel (BHP) : 186 Weight without Driver (KG) : 1740 Power to Weight Ratio (BHP Per Ton) : 108.61 0 - 60 (Secs) : 9.51 0 - 100 (Secs) : 28.05 60 - 100 (Secs) : 18.54 Quarter Mile (Secs) : 17.92 Terminal Speed (MPH) : 79.94 Drag Strip Quarter Mile (Secs) : 17.72 Drag Strip Terminal Speed (MPH) : 81.24 With 5 seats removed Power at Flywheel (BHP) : 186 Weight without Driver (KG) : 1640 Power to Weight Ratio (BHP Per Ton) : 115.24 0 - 60 (Secs) : 9.01 0 - 100 (Secs) : 25.93 60 - 100 (Secs) : 16.92 Quarter Mile (Secs) : 17.42 Terminal Speed (MPH) : 81.97 Drag Strip Quarter Mile (Secs) : 17.22 Drag Strip Terminal Speed (MPH) : 83.31 1/2 a second saved Now if i unbolt the passenger seat take out the spare wheel, carpets,..................................

I am using the Haynes manual settings for anything Sierra, i.e. ball joint to hub and anything non Ford is good and tight with a locknut

Pictures to follow. Padding how much do i need. will the thin stuff RHE provide do or shall i fit some thin pipe lagging. What has the SVA man said in the past? I would hate to trim the dash and find that i had to take it apart again.

Got to that stage 2 days ago, just couldn't see through a problem, so distracted myself by fiddling with the detachable dash/scuttle and after badly bending back the inner sides thought about how to cover it in an SVA compliant manner. In the workshop i have about 20 bits of 2.5 meter x 20mm white plastic electrical trunking. I cut it to rough lengths to fit the 5 runs to cover, split it down the middle and trimmed to fit. It's neat, covers the sharp bits front and back and once glued filled and covered should look neat. Now here's the clever bit the dash is not straight and the pipe is, so gently does it with an electric paint stripper gun and with gloves on, bend gently and re-fit. keep going until a progressive curve is formed.

If you really want swept wings its your lucky day, i have a set from a 3 with the front stays, the rear ones were just bent square tube and i chopped them up for other use weeks ago. Colour Green. condition, never been fitted.

3.92 diff on ebay and i don't want to bid against a fellow hoodie, so post a reply if it is you. Also how much is it worth, what sort of price have you guys paid. I dont want to pay to much but it would be a shame to let it pass by and i really don't know what the going rate is. 3 days to go.

They had exhuasted my folding stuff ( daily) and just took the opertunity as it arose

Started building when the kids ran past nicked the lot and went out. It's school hols while i have taken a few days off and got on with the build its cost me a fortune with 4 kids 10 to 15. So no pennies in this house

You have mail, i will have the 205 block and sump, also interested in the diff if its a push in. If your wishbones and splined shafts fit the diff and i can fit them to my set up, i'll have them as well