Snapperpaul

I have recently used Rhienz black rtv on my Duratec engine.

I will be using it for every metal to metal seal from now on.

It is amazing

Ive noticed the photos have been lost due to photobox issue, to preserve this thread I can send photos to moderators if that would be a more permanent way to make them available

I was a tad confused by the post

So

You have twin core wire with either silver foil or copper mesh outer cover?

If so, you earth the shielding at the EDIS and if my memory serves me there is some shielded wire needed from EDIS to Megajolt pip & saw

Diagrams on google search

I have a 3 one but unfortunately no blowing

Fnar Fnar

As I understand it Mondeo Duratec is 136bhp out of the box and Fiesta ST 147bhp which is mostly exhaust and ecu with a caveat that I think the N4JB later Head had higher port angle to the valves. I have just swapped out a Fiesta ST engine and have the old one destined for the Fury.

Pistons and rods are weak not just pistons

Fiesta ST definately has solid lifters

The bell for the disc will get over the problem of offset.

It does not move the position of the disc or calliper.

What it will do is reduce the disc face area.

The outer disc diameter can be the same

The inner disc diameter where it meets the bell will be larger presenting a thinner band of friction surface.

With some twin pot calipers you could run the same piston area and brake pad area but longer and thinner.

Im sorry, I can see the solution in my mind clearly, but dont have access to my works Graphics tablet and photoshop to do a diagram

I refer you to my earlier post about seperate disc bells.

ap racing alluminium bells are also angled at 60 degrees not the 90 degree of a cast all in one disc

Demon Tweeks and others such as Merlin Motorsport et al, do discs with the ability to use separate bells which can have any offset in a similar way to wheel offset.

Problem solved....

Sounds like you have an understanding of carbs and ignition.

As said its about being systematic.

The car has been standing for a while then its clean clean clean to get the carb back in good shape.

You can check ignition timing and advance with a strobe to check if there is any obvious problems at 3000 rpm.

I have in the past I have swapped a complete inlet manifold and carb with a know good one loaned from a friend, this is a simple way of pinpointing or eliminating a carb problem.

Back to the condenser issue you mentioned, if that has been removed then perhaps the distributor and coil are mismatched and that is the root of the problem

Just want to add a note of caution if fitting a 2.0l block with 1.6 Head.

The 1.6 Head has combustion chambers of 38cc and the 2.0l 48 to 50 cc which means you compression ratio with the 1.6 Head will be far to high and you would remove a lot of metal or a very thick head gasket to get it down to 10.5 to 1

7 days to change the clutch and DMF on a Corsa VXR.

4 days to change the timing chain in situ on a Fiesta ST150

Why do I punish myself this way

I bought a basically non started Robin Hood S3, didnt know what I had bought and wasnt sure how to build it.

Cost is always an issue but for me time taken to build diluted the the pain.

Ill be brutally honest now the challenge of building the S3 was immense for a novice and the 2b is now very old, I would consider a part built Zero or even buying the starter kit.

A Haynes is just as hard (or easy) to build as a Robin Hood the cost are similar unless you stick strictly to the Locost ethos and none of us do that.

The essence of a kit car is chassis, suspension, body and donor the test is personal choice.

Just to end my long winded reply I have started another kit car journey with a registered but deeply troubled Fisher Fury, financially this is not going to end well as I have already bought a Le Mans bonnet and a 2.0L Duratec

My S3 has Gaz coulovers with 180lb on the back.

The shocks mount on the rear of the A arm so slightly more leverage and travel than shocks mounted in the original spring pan.

Front set up has tiebars and Gaz coilovers with 125 lb springs

Over thinking

If its 32 out and 32 in just use 32

eBay reference number 301549625218

£10.99

On my system I have a small external thermostat on the outside of the tank.

Cut the outer insulation and stuck on and wired to the controller

BTW I use masking tape frequently to hold wood in place while glue sets.

Used sticky side inwards, it pulls up the grain of the balsa.

I use it sticky side outwards, tensioned, and overlap it to stick in place.

Gaffer tape is even more likely to grab something, try it inside out on your next broken mug

There are going to be more ?!?

I need therapy which I assume I will not be able to afford after the failed litigation and counter claim.

I need a mug of tea

3 wraps of duct tape....

Have instructed my solicitors Sue, Grabbit & Run to start litigation regarding the above (dodgy) advice

UPDATE.....

The gaffer tape I used to secure the handle while the glue set has taken part of the logo off.

Oh when will this torture end

I have had this mug for about 6 years and it has developed a stress fracture of the handle.

I have applied glue and pressure but am worried I may have a catastrophic failure mid tea, this would be at best a carastophy and at worst fatal.

Please check your mugs and take the necessary remedial action.

The cork wedges need a spot of sealant before you push them in.

Where the main bearing carriers meet the block is a line where oil seeps out, its this attention to detail that will give you an oil leak free engine

Quote..... I can now brake hard with crapping myself ,

I can do that without wheel wobble

http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/mt75.htm

Interestingly the MT 75 gearbox ratios are lower than the equivelant Type 9 so the V6 MT 75 is similar to the standard Type 9 meaning the V6 Type 9 which I use has the closest ratios, the only Ford gearbox with better ratios is the Cosworth T5 box

The Pinto comes with 110 or 115 injected

The injection head is better than a non injection head

The head makes the power adding a good cam can add a bit more then induction, carbs or injection.

Just slapping a pair of Weber 40's on a standard head will not make a huge difference.

Having a good head well prepared with larger valves, properly ported then better carburation can add that little bit more.

The standard 32/36 Weber is good for 130bhp

The 38 DGAS carb can push 150bhp

More than 150bhp and you want 45DCOE Weber's

This is a very simplistic description

I was looking at fabricating a double wishbone setup similar to Haynes Roadster rear and grafting it on.

It's a lot of work and tying it in to the monocoque tub requires further work including cutting out the boot floor and moving/changing the fuel tank