Grizzly

... haven't even thought about that yet!

Hi All, Ten jobs on the go at once!!!! I'm thinking about how to fabricate the boot now (Floor, sides and top) and was thinking that I'd do it all in alluminium. Does anyone recommend how thick the ally should be? If I can decide, I can get some ordered up and collect it from Donnington. Thanks....

Thanks Guys, Food for thought indeed. I'm sure I'll be able to fabricate something up now. Thanks again.

Hi Ron, Yes I do - You have a PM

Hi All, One of my next jobs is to get the Handbrake Lever sorted. The previous guy has already cut a slot in the floor (above some angle) and I'm happy to use this. As we all know though, this could prove to be a problem as Mr SVA man may decide he can't reach it. What I need to do then is figure out a way whereby I can mount this lever higher up the tunnel sidewall somehow but so that it still acts to pull the cable under the floor. I'm sure some guys have overcome this problem. Is it some sort of pully arangement or an alternative lever or what?? I'm pretty sure that one of the North East guys (Graham) used an alternative lever (from an MX5 ??) but I don't think he uses this site much. I've done a site search but all I come up with is tunnel-Top options. Any advice, as usual, would be greatly appreciated. Pics too would be great!

Hi sean, I need to get down to the Scrappy next Saturday. I can have a look while I'm there.

Thanks tpavlou - Cool!

Yep, I'm intending to be at the Keighley meet next month. Iain, Can we trust Mitch with money????

Hi All, I'm looking towards fitting the seats now. I've cut the subframes down to get them as low as possible and made up some straps out of 3mm x 1inch bar. The seatbelts are going to be secured to the car (not the seats) so I'm thinking that all I need to do is get some bolts (4 or maybe 6 per seat) welded through the straps. These bolts will then protude through the floor and I can secure them from underneath via some 1 inch angle iron (or maybe box section). My question is: Will this be sufficient for Mr SVA man? Also, Assuming I'll be able to always get to both ends of the upper seatbelt points, can I use High Tensile metric nuts & bolts, or do these have to be 7/16th UNF too?

Hi Iain, Just a bit too short I think but I could find a use for it I'm sure. I'd be happy to take it off your hands for a nominal fee. Are you going to Donnington? If so we could meet up there?

Here's an update, I got in touch with Rally Design and complained (only a bit though) They said they'd refund if I sent it back - which I did. Refund arrived including the Carriage costs! TOP GEEZERS RALLY DESIGN !! For this reason, I'm sure I'll be using them again - Good PR eh?

SVA Compliant?

Hi Iain, No I don't have any yet. I was going to ring CBS before the Donnington Show and ask if they could make sure they bring some with them (if they're attending). I've had a quick measure and it looks like I'll be needing about 90cms. Do you have that much?

Just to let you know, I've just bought a 45mm one from Rally Design. When it arrived it was 65mm :gdit: :gdit: It turns out that the 45mm relates to the internal dimension. They were very sorry but not as sorry as me as it looks like I'll be having to send this one back and stand the £8.50 postage costs. :boohoo: . My fault, I should've asked them first. Maybe I'll just wait until the next show - Donnington which I think is 15th & 16th October?

James, It's in the post.

Thanks Mitch - And not too bad a price either I'll add it to my list for next time. It's the P+P that always puts me off.

Hi All, I want to set the speedo on my Capri Clocks to zero. Now I could use a drill (in reverse) but it would take some time. I wondered if there was an easier way? Does anyone want to admit to knowing how to do this??

Hi All, Does anybody have any of this "surplus to requirements" or alternatively, can anyone let me know of a supplier?

Hi Nigel, I've managed to take another look at this tonight. No time last night as parental skills were the order of the evening I powered up the clocks as you described. The panel lights work - a bit dim though. (OK) The Temp gauge works (if I earth it through - (OK) The fuel gauge sort of works but only goes up to just over half full when the sender's float is at the top?? If I disconnect the earth B though, the gauge then rises off the scale?? My thinking is that because the clockset is not "fully wired up" this might be understandable and acceptable for now?? I'm considering leaving this issue to one side for now and pressing on with other things (there's plenty!) in the vain hope that once the clocks are fully connected, all will be well ??

Hi All, Well I now have four bolts - Thanks Chris. I'll buy you a pint whenever we meet up. So I'm now after just the speedo cable circlip. Apparently Frord now longer stock this item :gdit: Ok so it's just a circlip. I don't suppose anyone can tell me the dimensions of it so that I can try and get one from somewhere?

OK James, PM me your address and I'll dig one out and post it off to you. No promises that it'll be the right one, though worth a shot eh?.

Nigel, Here's the info regarding the four warning lights: Top: Main Beam, Bottom Left: Brake, Bottom Centre: Indicators, Bottom Right: Ignition. I've attached the pencilled drawing that I have. It's not scanned in too well and it's not very legible but if you zoom in, it may be of some use?

Any pics of how and where you positioned it Phil?

Hi Nigel, Thanks for your response. I'll try and get time to have another look at all this tonight. I can let you know about the warning lights as I have a pencilled diagram from the guy I bought the clocks from - I'll check it through and I'll send you another reply tonight too. Thanks...

Two feeds eh? I'll have another check - Back to the drawing Board!