alanrichey

Can we add the Member Map to the list as things that need to be fixed ? I can't add myself to it.

 

Thanks

Thanks, I'll give you a ring.

Thanks for the advice. I may be seeming a bit dense here but having never done this before my problem is I have no idea how these are fastened. Most of the press studs I am seeing on the net/high street are either self tappers or require access to the back side to be squashed into position, These fasteners are on the carbon fibre back plate and appear to also be fastened through into the stainless steel chassis so I have no idea what the backside looks like or how you fasten them without access to the rear. I assume 'Woolies' will explain it to me.

Tried to add myself by tapping on the "Save Location" in the Member Map but I get an error message saying it couldn't contact Google. System broken or something I am doing wrong ?

Pop across to Woolies at Market Deeping:

 

http://www.woolies-t...urable-dot.aspx

Another excuse to take the car out!

Nigel.

Thanks Nigel, that's a great suggestion. At least that way I can show them the car and make sure I get the right things. On E-Bay it's going to be guesswork

OK, just spent another 10 minutes on E-Bay looking at fasteners without success. I'll hang on until someone can give me a definte link

I need to drill out some of the presss studs (that the wet-weather gear clips onto) on the back of my Superspec to do some work on the fuel filler. I gather they are easy enough to replace but so far all I have found on E-Bay are self-tapping versions (See Item 221046648254) and picture, and I need pop rivet versions

 

Can anyone point me in the right direction ?

I'll second that. Nice to meet everyone, I will stay longer next year.

Hope to make it 10-11am tomorrow

Thanks, that's very useful as a comparison. I am using the same mounting hole as you but have hardly any of the coil thread showing. I was planning on moving it in one more hole closer to the chassis. Maybe I should just wind them up a bit.

Looks good. How far up did you wind them up ?

I think I have a home made spanner that you could have if you want to pay postage

Thanks, I'll bear that in mind.

What i would do is jack it up as said until the wheel starts to lift, loosen the shock bolts a little and then jack a little more. Now take the shock and give it a pull back and forth and see if is loose or still has pressure from the spring. If you have spring pressure you'll have to compress it.

That's exactly what I did and even with the nuts removed the shock was still rock solid when the wheel wouild 'just' rotate by hand. So as you say, I probably need to compress it. The part of the 'physics' I was missing/didn't understand was that the wheel/wishbone might start rising because the balljoints have reached the limit. That makes a lot of sense, thanks.

Sounds expensive ?

Sorry, this is now confusing the hell out of me. I thought I understood the physics behind this but apparently not I need to watch someone actually doing it before I feel confident to do it myself.

I'm going to mount it on a board with all the relays, all carefully labelled

Afraid I don't have a 60mm spanner. I was hoping I wouldn't need it, I obviously do. Although surely the shock is already at full length at the point where the tyre/wishbone starts to come off the floor ? Otherwise it would keep extending.

Had my first try this morning but eventually gave up. I can see the logic that if you jack up the chassis that at the point where the tyre leaves the ground the spring is just at it's maximum extension before it starts to lift the wishbone, and it should, in theory, be easy to remove the bottom bolts. But after multiple attempts with the bolts loosened I just couldn't find the 'sweet spot' and while I could have forcibly removed the bolts the last thing I wanted to do was take off the shock/spring and not be able to get it back on again. That way I wouldn't make the Meet next weekend So I think I will wait until a professional shows me how to do it.

Many thanks to bullfist. First fuse I pulled from the 'official' 4 x fusebox was blown. Replaced and I now have a horn and headlights. Although I also learned not to change a fuse on a 'live' circuit, first attempt resulted in a flash and another blown fuse. Taking off the battery -ve terminal and then putting the fuse in did the trick. I LOVE the way this is such a learning experience Now bought a heavy-duty 10-way fusebox off E-Bay and will gradually switch to that.

Later: Had a good look around the suspension and now I understand everything that has been said, although a 60mm spanner might be a challenge. Thanks again, I would be lost without this forum.

Thanks for all the advice. I think I will just move it in one hole first and see what the effect is. If that increases the ride height enough I can leave it at that. Otherwise I will be bending a few ears at the Annual Meet

Actually I have just found that a pair of coil spring compressors are very cheap on e-bay so might as well play safe and get a set for the day when I change to Gaz shocks

 

Is it simply a matter of putting the compressors in and then jacking the car up then undoing the bottom bolt and moving the mounting ? Or do I still have to undo the spring platform ? Actually not exactly sure what you mean by that, never tried this before. Can you tell me in words of one syllable ?

I want to try and improve the ground clearance of the sump on my Superspec by moving the bottom mounting of the shocks to the hole nearest the chassis

 

 

Do I need to use a spring compressor or will jacking up the chassis, allowing the wheel/wishbone to droop, be sufficient to allow the bottom mounting to be disconnected and moved.

 

Sorry if this is a dumb question but I would prefer not to find out by trying it and then being unable to reassemble it

Enjoyed my first ever track day immensely, although I'm glad Dan didn't post the timed runs results . Although at least I wasn't last and didn't spin out anywhere Also glad to finish the day with my Superspec in one piece, except for the odd leak (actually a hat-trick, Oil, Petrol and Water ). I learnt a lot from it, thanks to all involved.

Yes, that turned out to be perfect. Also followed the advice at http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=26736&st=0&p=205151&fromsearch=1entry205151 and built a bracket instead of mounting the eye direct to the pedal, to avoid stresses. Then threaded the cable through a short length of copper tube at the bell housing end to make the adjustment easier. Great success, clutch now much lighter and smoother.