zhap135

Thanks Spare. I think I've literally just tracked down the issue. Was going back to basics last night and tracked all wires back the switch. Now the switch is original Sierra, but I bought the kit as a part complete. The previous owner hadn't got very far with it, so i assumed that the original harness all correct and untampered with. Last night I noticed whilst looking at the Haynes manual and the switch that the wire colours into the switch terminal were wrong (I've been keeping wire colours true to their original ford purpose as much as poss, even when using the CBS FB)- up until now it hadn't even occurred to me to verify the wires going into the switch. So all this time the ign and start had been swapped over. I had probably "made things work" with a bit of swapping and splicing - I didn't keep a full diary of what I'd done, but it might explain a couple of minor oddities that I've had to work around since Now have reconnected the switch terminals, redirected the ign switch wires to the proper CBS modules. Engine starts, alternator provides about 13.5V with no noise and I'm a happy bunny. Will have to go through all other functions now to test (superficially everything seems to work well), but whereas I didn't keep a diary, I know most of the workarounds that I did. I'm really glad it wasn't the starter or alt as they were both new units So, as ever, thanks all for your inputs

I'll have a look at that, thanks. Didn't think to actually check the polarity cos it was me

Hi Peter, no led,

Thanks Blue. That did occur to me, however the noise is less squeal and more screech. It's pretty grindy. It also is in unaffected by tightening and loosening fan belt Also voltage across battery drops by one, rather than rising

Engine back in after fixed core plug and subsequent sheared clutch housing bolt. Engine runs nicely (needs fine tuning/timing, but sustains at idle) BUT horrible screeching sound eminating from Engine. After alot of ruling things out (initially thought it was solenoid failing to retract, so stripped and lubed) finally tracked noise down to alternator. It seems that when the alternator is plugged in instead of producing current it is drawing (PD across battery is 12.5 when inactive, drops to 11-11.5), which seems to make a vibration. when alt unplugged engine runs quietly and smoothly, and alternator reads ~16V. All is plugged in to CBS 12 module unit which otherwise works fine - no loss of charge overnight, all circuits working. Any ideas? PS, alternator warning light only half extinguishes when engine running. The alt, starter and battery all new, and apparently otherwise healthy. Am a bit stumped, any ideas - are some alternators pos earthed or summat??

Hiya, got a photo? and what diameter/ length springs do they take - I presume that the 15/16 inch is from measured from the centre of each mounting. I may be showing my ignorance, I'm no expert in shocks

Interesting point as personalised, I know exactly what I'd put in there - did they not question that at all?

Cool. Yes unlikely as it would be to duplicate an existing with 17 characters, it would be just me luck...

Thanks Richy! I was being facetious when I said make one up - you couldn't, well, make it up! Would RH have originally stamped one on somewhere? am I missing something?

MAgic!, that's fantastic will give them a whirl! With the VIN, is this the old Sierra one, or does it need to be specific to the Hood? If it needs to be specific to the hood, how do we generate one, do we just make one up?

Think so, got a spare?

Thanks, so there is a work around for that - bit of a relief! I've also seen that there needs to be VIN plates from RH? don't have those I think, but presume there is a workaround for that too

Yes spotted that, glad I saw that before I started upholstering and permanently fitting the seats. Did I see something about reinforcing the handbrake mounts?

Well that makes a massive load of sense, IVA or not. Thanks for the tip!

Yeah, I'm considering getting the IVA done without a screen, otoh I still need to get the car there, and an hours drive without a screen would probably be not much fun, andneed a crash lid, if only to protect the eyes from insects and grit. it would save a load of hassle re the infrastructure mind. No way! some times these rules tie themselves in knots....

IVA initially, hadn't thought of reg yet.... Naughty! is that seriously all they expect to see?

That's a great tip, will give them a shout - didn't consider them as I though they only did prefabricated

Yes, literally this morning got a quote for 2k.... Local glass company will do one for about £50 in 6mm laminate, but won't be stamped sadly

Does everyone have a link to the definitive list of docs and plates required? I have the V5 and 2 plates which originally come from the donor Not sure thta I have bills of sale or anything like that.

Yeah, a lot of the infrastructure is already there, and the ports for wipers washers and vents were already cut. At some point i'll need a screen, so regardless of IVA the q stands. I never knew it would be such a pain trying to find glass!

Having a right job finding a supplier to do windscreens for an S7. I have the frame. but no glass. I'd like to get teh windscreen done as part of the test, as I'll be wanting a screen anyway, just seems to make sense, although am considering leaving it till after. Either way I'm having a job with suppliers. Brum mentioned SHX Screens in Norwich, but I'm having a job contacting them - does anyone know whether they are still operational, and whether they still are using the same contacts? Does anyone else have a sound responsive (cheap!) supplier, or have an S7 screen floating about?

No, am using the CBS wiring diag alongside the Haynes and working out with a bit of trial and error. I had it wired some time ago, so knew it all worked but decided to swap out the ford FB. It's been a pain, but I'm glad I did it Mind you , sorting that out has enabled me to tidy up under the dash a massive amount - looks less like a trashed birds nest now..... only have a couple of unfixed wires. Washer, fan and stat (both to be sourced still but wires waiting for them) and radio (again, need to source that.) Also an obligatory wire that i have no clue what its for....

Thanks Fry - Florin? Sounds like you believe that its a new relay? Should point out that only 3 of the 4 relay contacts are currently used. That's the problem isn't it - the one that usually goes to the int speed adjuster still has to go the fuse box, it can't just be terminated..... And that will need a separate fuse I think as there isn't one on the CBS box, unless I use one that currently out of use - eg the interior lights.... Update: no, that isn't the issue (or might be, but trying it hasn't solved the problem), tried wiring that and nothing. Again other 2 speeds work fine. 2nd update: The Haynes wiring diag suggested that there should be a Bk/Y wire to a int speed adjuster. However looking at the old FB the unused pin actually links to a busbar which is earthed. Tried it, works now! There doesn't appear to be an option for an adjuster in my model (that would require 5 pins of the wiring diag was to be believed, which is not the case) Fantastic, another job ticked off the list! Thanks for your hep Fry!

So wired in the wiper motor yesterday. Am using ford paddles, original ford relay, mini r&P motor, CBS fuse box. Everything works fine except for the Intermittent, which shift slightly and just stop. When turned off they return to park. Fast and slow work beautifully. Have opened the relay and seems in good nick, and clicks over when bench tested, but that is teh extent of my testing HAs anyone had anything similar? I'm throwing this out to all before I buy a new relay - have been somewhat spend-thrifty of late.....