zhap135

if it's on the ford gear box I think its a straight switch wth a rubber friction fit - should just pushon

I've just now wired in my mini wiper motor to the CBS module with a ford relay and paddles. Largely successful, except the intermittent only moves a smidge - I need to find if this is a motor contact fault. I was so glad I kept the old FB, as that had the correct relay - the CBS only has a fuse and relies on a straight switch for the wipers looking at ford colour wires, the Bk/V going from the switch to the motor should be spliced in as the feed from channel 20 on teh CBS.

Yes, the full on accredited courses they do start about a grand for a week- it's tempting but I'm not sure I can justify it. They currently don't do intro/hobby courses, but I might press them to see if it's an area of business they might want to develop

Thanks all for your responses. It happens that there is a welding supplies and training est. in my town, Letchworth. Having had a chat with them, they've invited me in for an hour or two to have a look at and trial some different products and get some advice. As I was humming harring about getting a welder anyway, I think this seems reasonable - the guy even said why not bring the flywheel in and we can have a go! So happy days! That'll be in a couple of weeks, so back to other jobs until then!

Thanks Spare, yes, spotted that some are higher than 13! Thanks also for your words of warning. A Mig might be the way forward then - was the clarke 135 a decent starter kit did you find? I see that with teh right wire and gas it can also weld ali and SS I hear you also on your view about getting proper intruction, this makes a lot of sense. It's also something that I've been thinking about for a while.

Thanks for that, that's really useful I haven't welded before, but I've been meaning to get a welder for years. Is there a particular unit that's good for starting out?

Thanks Kevin, yes I'm starting to realise I need to get a welder and learn how to use it!

Thanks yes have been trawling YT for some wisdom. Yes, although I have never sunk as low as Aldi for drills, I'm realising I'm going to have to spend more than I have been! Is there any particular supplier you use? I'm always wary on eBay that you don't really know what you are getting, and you can't go by price alone.

Thanks, I might take you up on that if I get no luck with a repair

That's an interesting point. I've not used one before. What is the risk of damaging the fly around the hole do you think?

Aaargh. Had a full on acetylene kit, or my dad did, bit I got rid when clearing his stuff. Have been kicking myself ever since... Isn't the hardness from the carbon content rather than the temper? I'm kicking myself on the extractor I used too. It snapped at the head with hardly any effort - piece of crap. The others in the set went straight into the bin! Spark erosion. I suppose that's another option is find and engineering company to see if they can help out.

So, as the engine was leaking water from behind the sump did a bit of research and decided that it was probably a core plug gone - got the kit, whipped engine out, took the clutch/flywheel off found a very rotten core plug, cleaned hole, replaced nae bother. Trouble was in the process I managed to sheer a clutch bolt. To add to the drama I also managed to break an extractor, and then a drill when trying to go in from the other side . So now I have a very stubborn bolt/drill/extractor chimera embedded on my flywheel, that has defeated several drills Yes, shame and hot coals heaped on my head! Does anyone happen to have any advice. The obvious easy solution, but rather pricey, is get a new flywheel. Is there any other hope?...

Brilliant , Thanks for the clarification Pinto

Mmm, yes. I guess it's a replacement if that's the case. The battery is new. However the volt meter is old, proper old one with a needle which seems to be moving freely. Wonder if I should invest in a new one.....

Have jsut bench tested the Alt, and I seem to be getting about 15-16v accross the battery when running with a drill. When the drill stops teh voltage someimes drops back to 12, but sometimes sustains at this level. Thios seems bvery odd to me, because i understand that the V should be about 13-14 because the voltage sometimes stays high Does this seem familiar to you?

Hi Pinto, sorry can I just run that again. Now I understood from some of the other responses that the thin blue (+ve) is goes to one side of warning ( a LED in my case), and the +ve from the ignition switch goes to the other When then the alt is working then the potential difference is going the other way, and as the telltale is a diode nothing lights. If the Alt is not working or working suboptimal, then the PD is lower at the alternator end allowing the light to illuminate. This seems to make sense to me, but doesn't marry with what I understood that you have just said - have I mixed up what you were saying. I understood that you say the other terminal to the ALt light should go to earth?

Thanks Pinto, will have a look

I hope so, it's teh original paddle and wires - just the box that has been swapped out

Great idea on that, will look to doing something similar!

Thanks Ian - the wiring diagram suggest no relay on the early low series sierras. The weight of the horn wire into the switch would suggest the same.- the relay that I have is in the CBS module. Good point about the fuse though, will check and make sure that it's not a schoolboy error

Yeah, the horn relay is clicking, but for some reason not sounding. The wires are heavy enough not to need a relay - as mine I believe is not a high series model it looks from the haynes/ford wiring diagrams like I can wire direct. Think I'll do that. The relay on the inds doesn't click nor when the hazards are on, but they do work otherwise. I haven't got the side repeaters wires in yet. I guess it's possible that as they will draw a bit more current there'll be a more positive click? Not sure, might have to wait until that's done to investigate. There'll be some kind of workaround available if I still have that problem I'm sure. I could stand behind the inspector and click my tongue I suppose.....

Yes, that sounds right - mine's an 83. according the wiring diagram the cabling is direct, and looking at the paddles the wiring is as heavy there as that leading to the lamps

This is interesting - I'm just running them straight currently, although I have room on my mounting board for some extra relays. So far I haven't noticed any issues, although I might check to see if the wires get hot. In addition, the indicators on my unit work fine, but there is no audible telltale - did you come across the same issue? also have an issue with the horn relay - the relay clicks over, but no sound from horn - teh horn is tested and works fine off the battery

That's good, although it is possible that he made the odd error, so if something is not working as you expect hold that in your mind as a (if low probability) reason The Haynes manual was/is useful to me as I was using ford harnesses and components with teh CBS module, so the wire colours matched - if your Uncle used a non stock/custom harness bear that in mind that they may use different coloured wires. In any case the Haynes is fantastic on the mechanics. Watch out though I believe there were 2 editions - the older edition with the light blue cover seemed to be more comprehensive. Re teh extra fuse/relay box it may be that he was having difficulty with a component, and decided to cut his losses and bypass teh CBS12. I'm currently having fun getting the wiper intermittent to work (although I'm sure I got them to work on the old ford box -was a while back before I swapped out) Also the Horn relay is clicking over but not sounding. One option I'm considering is to bypass , but I must confess that grates a bit, not very elegant... [edit] also there is no audible tell-tale for the indicators, not sure id you have found hat issue or is it a problem with mine alone Yeah, the venturis were only used early on I think, and had their problems - an old friend told me that he used to carry a coke bottle of petrol that he'd pour into teh top when he couldn't get it to start. And lets face it, it isn't a weber.....

Ah, I swapped out my old fuse box to the CBS unit for a couple of reasons, primarily my car had been sitting rotting away for some time so there was a lot of corrosion in the wires which was very difficult to find, and secondly being able to site the box in exactly the most convenient place was then enabled without tugging, pushing and pulling (and therefor damaging) obstreperous bunches of wires. I didn't totally rewire from scratch but split the existing harness into modules which I then bench tested. I found bench testing to be invaluable - I mocked up and tested (and labelled! - a label machine is indispensable for keeping the cables identified) the circuits away from the car at first so I could be confident that it all worked as it should before committing to getting it routed. Sounds like a faff, but it really saved time and hair tearing (I believe) in the long run. I was using the original ford harness, and I wanted to keep the ford paddles and maintain functionality on the wipers (another story, am using an ex mini rack and pinion). There has been a bit of messing around to ensure they all play nicely together. The old Haynes manual is also invaluable - I made several A3 copies of the wiring diags so that I could scribble and highlight them. On my pinto the pump is mechanical I think so I didn't actually use that module in the h box, and I'm using the stock Venturi carb (yes, I know, will be updated one day...) so my specific knowledge around that part is sketchy.