Dean Roberts

Just PM U dude

Cheers Rob....will bear that in mind when looking around. Anything I should be aware of when looking at getting one? Can the input shafts be changed etc.... As I notice there seems to be 3 different types: Diesel V6 2.0 OHC Is the V6 the better stronger version or should I just get the cheapest one available and rebuild it with stronger parts. Any advice appreciated. TIA Dino

Cheers Keith, just looking at type 9 at the moment with the thought that I recondition/rebuild/strengthen it to transfer from the Pinto to any other future engine upgrades.

Nigel. That does sound like common sense. Just couldn't accept removing 3.8 and it only wanted 2 to get back to normal. We have gone thru the process rich suggested and it feels better. But it seems I'm trapped between the devil and deep blue sea. No not till Tuesday and need to drive car to flush air in system. Looks like axel stands, wooden blocks etc are gonna be needed to do a ferris bueller and the miles on whilst stationary. Cheers guys.... Time go and the car up in the air ken and slowly add 5 miles and oil in increments.

Just attempted to drive it, and it keeps slipping in and out of drive. Engine up to normal temperature with fan kicking in. Gearbox cannot get up to temperature cos it won't stay in drive long enough to get around block. I get it off the drive and it just sits in neutral for a good few minutes, the jolts into drive. Dipstick has 3 notches.. Min, med, max I read the service manual and u fill it to med, get box up to temp by driving and then check and it should be on max. I cannot drive it far enough to get it to temperature.

just putting feelers out for a type 9 to use on the pinto, just encase we need to replace the auto. Will also need the clutch, cables etc.. As it would be a conversion to manual. Hopefully this can then be used ( via bell housing) on any engine upgrades in the future.

Ok car is due for mot Tuesday, only problem is that I just tried to take it round the block and it takes an age to get into gear. When I did drive it, it keeps slipping. The manual say low oil. Check the stick and its spot on the middle notch as per before the incident. So I thought I would see how much was drained from the pan and I have exactly 3.8 litres of old oil. I looked at the new bottle of oil and I have used 2 litres to get it the middle notch. What I'm asking, is, should I go by the dip stick or the amount that came out (which means I'm 1.8 litres short)?

Since the last time we spoke I was thinking of quick fixes... Can you set-up a switch on dashboard for the gearbox that locks out the torque converter when it gets up and going, might save on those precious horses?

Definitely going full tilt on the throttle. Gearbox is a A4LD

Not sure what size the jets are. I just wanted to get the car up and running with the manifold and carbs as fast as possible. Now that the gearbox is fixed, I will fire up the car again tonight and test the gearbox and get it ready for the MOT. If I get chance, I will open up one of the carbs and take a gander. I must admit the carbs are probably running a little rich and when I got back in (after the gearbox incident), I noticed one of the spark plug leads had fallen off again Perhaps I need to go out again and test it, as it has only been out for one day since the tax was renewed.

What boot? ( I removed it last year)

Oh my god.....R U trying to get me arrested. Can you imagine the sellers face when I put in an offer, he declines.... I then pull out the KY Jelly and a pair of rubber gloves.

Somebody suggested weight loss, but after the wife gave me a black eye....I explained the gearbox was too heavy. Keith, not sure about the diff, but gather its standard 2.0ltr sierra one, remember your little kit is 200kg lighter than mine. Car - Approx. 750Kg + Autobox (sounds like a transformer) 67KG + Pinto (145KG) + wife That's a lot of weight to push around with a measly 70bhp pinto. The type 9 5 speed weighs in at about 33KG +bell housing. So to save money I suggest the wife loses the difference in the gearboxes (another black eye)......34KG I even made the car about 150KG lighter than it was last year and fitted bike carbs, but only feels a fraction faster. It must be doing 0-60 in approx.. 10 seconds. I sure I've seen fast fords in the past with autos doing speeds much faster than that. Oh well MOT and RR next... But still would like to know what to look out for if buying a second hand cylinder head.

Just trying to get a little background info. I was looking getting my hands on a second-hand cylinder head to work on over the summer months. port/polish and get a standard 2.0ltr skimmed and then stick a few bits inside it to give it some go faster stripes But I don't want to buy something that may already have been skimmed and end up going round in circles wasting dosh. So I thought if I'm collecting in person, I can interrogate the seller and if he has no history, take a tape measure and callipers and check the dimensions for myself. The better half, insists the kit is still very slow, after fitting the bike carbs, so I talked her into getting head (oooeerr missus)...... skimmed and fitting a more lumpy cam. I think the fact - That the last time we were out I beat her in a race with my tin-top (Nissan 1.5tdi) and this made her blood boil and got the ball rolling towards an upgrade. Next time, I beat her, I will suggest a lighter gearbox will make the car faster After that an engine upgrade. Then, if she still cannot beat me, suggest another kit car

If you have no history of the cylinder head and tempted to get it skimmed. The safe recommendation is 1.5mm, but what if the head has no history and has already been skimmed to it's limits. Is there a way of finding out by measuring the head and comparing its value against the default values (if there are any?) Is this a valid question or am I just barking up the wrong tree.

Wow...Nice rendering, a mix between old skool and Futuristic Tron looking vehicle

Well seal stinky, sticky horrible stuff... But seems to do the trick. Very impressed and only £8.99 a tube on eBay

Finally got repaired sump back and just fitted it with a little treacle on the gasket. That well seal stinks.... Oooooeeer Just filled up the geabox with oil and gonna leave overnight to see if we have any leaks. Typical the bloody MOT ran out today, so I've got to book the car in for mot and then rolling road to tune carbs. So miffed cos weather has been cracking and wanted to take car out this week to the Leicester meet- up Oh well hopefully I can get it up and running legally for the local meet. Thanks everybody for the support and history lesson. Amazing picture of the tug.

Andi - Just for info - the link don't work any more http://langtongreenhouse.co.uk/ works but you need to go to the home screen and scroll to bottom for map. https://www.facebook...fo?tab=overview - facebook link works https://www.google.c...361426efc604fea - google maps I hope all the links above are for the correct place

I just wrapped mine last month: http://s1275.photobucket.com/user/Dino2B/Slice%20of%20Life%20updates%202015/Exhaust%20Mods/story Only time will tell, but I must admit, when it gets to temperature, the engine bay is definitely cooler and the heat is pushed back into the silencer. There were some debates about stainless exhausts and the heat wrap causing them to crack etc.... Here's a nice thread worth reading: http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=40609&hl=%2Bexhaust+%2Bwrap

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1999-Ford-Cougar-2-0-3dr/261781856180?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D30110%26meid%3Db59aeadc13c6402aa919578e64067767%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D10%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D331521668503

I should be ok then, with this monster supporting my 2B http://www.not2fast.com/megashift/incoming/A4LD_Spec_Sheet.pdf 373mm at widest point

No worries, I did see the conversation and thought about jumping in. But being the nice guy, I thought what the hell, it will still go to a good home.

Thanks for the info guys, just needed the confidence booster, considering the many different types, the "DO's and DONTS" and the rings that Ford make you run around. example: Speak to Ford and they insist you use Mercon or Mercon V, then I ask, "what about Mercon LV?" The guy goes quiet and then replies, "do not use Mercon LV or SP" I ask what's the difference and nobody could give me a straight answer So I thought I would ask the professionals on RHOCAR I was wondering if Ford and Motorcraft were in bed together and cashing in on the overpriced stock of oil. So standard ATF it is...

Any ideas on an alternative A4LD automatic transmission fluid? The recommended Mercon is like gold dust to find and everywhere I read to be very careful what I use, especially considering the Torque converter already has x amount of red juice already in it. That's assuming the red juice already inside is Mercon? Oh my...I might just get one of the suggestions on here: http://www.eurocarparts.com/transmission-oils (suck-it-and-see).... Meantime save for a clutch, pedal box and manual type 9 or mt75 (in the event of the auto going pop in the next 12 months).