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Adrian

RHOCaR Member
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Posts posted by Adrian

  1. my daughter has a 1.3 corsa... last week a noise has started to come from under the bonnet on starting and idling......sounds just like the fan belt is catching on something... checked fanbelt fine, timing belt fine, not catching either. tappets all whizzing nicely. any ideas on what it maybe.,,it is def coming from the fan belt side of the engine. but cannot find it at all... as soon as you rev the engine it goes, that i what is puzzling me.

    any ideas welcome.

    besides its a sunny day, so can happley play with engines on the drive B)

  2. go fot it, all my wifes family are out there...there are problems but as long as you are sensible you will be ok....is worth a visit, the life style is great and ask for a good old fashion braaai..(bar b q) whilst you are there.

    slurp a castle or two and enjoy heaven B)

  3. hope one of you boffins out there cqn help me.

    i have a cd radio player in my hood. has been working fine for the last few months, however now, it is fine when i am at idle, but whenever i accelerate the dam thing turns off, back to idle and it starts up again.

    i have done all the obvious. all the wires are fine, connected properly, no loose ones at all, earth fine, radio player secured, the only thing i havent done is put the player in another car to see if his problem remains. any ideas?

    i cant think what it can be?? :huh:

  4. my wife has a ford ka and the radio has stopped working.....having checked all ther fuses, wiring etc it is the ignition live which is duff...ie it isnt igniton live anymore, obviously must be a fault on wire somewhere..and here is the problem.the wire disapears into the loom and never reappears or if it does it is another colour.

    i cant find a haynes manual at any local motorfacters.

    does anybody know where i can find an ignition live on this tintop?

    thanks in anticipation

  5. i have just had the same problem with engine catching the cross bar. have cut the bar off.

    on contact gbs today re this bar i was told that on the 2b/4 it is not a streghtening item and can be cut away without losing chassis integrity. so presume that it was there to proect the sump, but to far back in chassis to ddo much good. so its off. do think i will be bolting a piece of angle iron further forwards anyway.

  6. i have noticed the same problem with my 2b, engine was clear when fitted but has now settled onto the tube. cant add any more spacers as engine will catch bonnet....so i am cutting the tube tomorrow and planned to either get a new one welding further forwards or bolt on angle iron. not sure yet. but found that with the engine settling it has rubbed the sump a bit. hence reason for cutting.

    always something to do isnt there... anyway the garage is nice and comfy, wam and dry.

    aaaah

  7. im having the same problem trying to find thocker mounts or ones with longer bolt thread.

    spoken to a neighbour who knows about these things. he is wondering about making some from scrqatch, suggesting the rubber rollers you get for boats and place between chassis and engine mount, then place long bolt through and tighten. ..if too tall can adjust height by cutting the rubber away.

    from what i remember when i had a boat these rubber rollers are thick and quite stiff. about £5 each.

    any thoughts anyone?

    alternative is secondary plate over chassis to lift lower mount bolt up

  8. i am with flux again... £110 fully comp. initially they quoted 165 but did say they would beat any quote. rang them up and advised them that i had genuine quote of 120, so they beat it.

    so why couldnt they quote that the first time.

    so even with recovary is well below their initial price of 165.

  9. John O'Reilly hoisted his beer and said,

    'Here's to spending the rest of me life!, between the legs of me wife!'

     

    That won him the top prize at the pub for the best>toast of the night!

    He went home and told his wife,

    Mary, 'I won the prize for the Best toast of the night.'

     

    She said, 'Aye, did ye now. And what was your toast?'

     

    John said,

    'Here's to spending the rest of me life,sitting in church beside me wife.'

     

    'Oh, that is very nice indeed, John!' Mary said.

     

    The next day, Mary ran into one of John's drinking buddies on the street corner.

     

    The man chuckled leeringly and said, 'John won the prize the other night at the pub with a toast about you, Mary.'

    She said,

    'Aye, he told me, and I was a bit surprised myself . You know, he's only been there twice in the last four years.

     

    Once he fell asleep,

    and the other time I had to pull him by the ears to make him come

  10. have found two in the garage which are of no use to me.

    one from a 2l ohc, motorcraft and has the following numbers on it,

    87bb 12a297 ea

    03d 2jm1 03288

    has part of loom with it.

     

    and another

    87bb 12a297 ea

    03d 2jm7106890

    just has connecters to it

     

    if any use just postage.

  11. i eventually borrowed an electric temp gauge and fitted that to the car with its relevant sender. temp has been perfect ever since, when go back to the ford items its straight over the top. i have come to the conclusion that when it was in for its new carb tweeking the garage did something to it and the sender/ gauge are knackered. (also the fact they cannot state why it came back to me with extra 10 miles on clock leads me to the conclusion they hammered it. anyway thats another story. )cant get hold of the ford senders here at the moment but when i get a new one fitted will advise if it sorts out the problem or not.... mine is def gauge related after all that.

  12. have checked the wire well, no shorts, cuts or anything in the length of it

    have noticed tho that when temp gets above n in nom it goes straight up to re when onder load, if you turn off, then just turn on ignition, the temp stays just under n when it always did before.

    could this mean the gauge is b===d, just wodering if there is a fault at the top end of the gauge which only comes about underload- ie vibration-. is there a way of testing the gauge at all? or just get another one

    have come to decision it is the gauge now!

    B)

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