nelmo

I was wondering if that was possible - is that hole in the top one that you mean? https://goo.gl/photos/bHfmqQjyyz4nqKRv5

I'm trying to use the original Ford thermostat on my 2.0 Zetec with an Emerald ECU. However, the engine's original coolant sensor is screwed into the cylinder head and is not compatible with the Emerald ECU. The thermostat does not have any threaded access to take the Emerald sensor. I was planning on just fitting it to the outlet pipe of the thermostat but then I have the problem of the ECU thinking the engine is cold for much longer than it really is (until the thermostat opens). I really wanted to avoid the extra cost of a water rail (the GBS one has an extra bit of pipe between engine and thermostat and that is where they have holes to fit the sensors). What are opinions on sensor after the thermostat? Apart from extra fuel, am I risking engine damage in some way? How much extra fuel - would it be noticeable? Anyone done this? As a follow on - has anyone gone without a thermostat at all? I guess the risk is never getting the engine to a good operating temperature - is that easy to do without a thermostat?

Eventually, I will be fitting a windscreen and I'm not using column stalks so I will be putting the wiper switches on the dash. However, I won't be fitting the windscreen (and thus wipers) before IVA. Is it OK to have the wiper switches on the dash that don't do anything or will I have to use blanks?

What I'm getting here is that both ways will be fine, although soldering needs more skill (which I don't have). Many thanks for all your posts - very enlightening...

Thanks all. I have got an Emerald ECU so I think I'll go the crimping route... my soldering skills are also pretty rubbish.

I'm no sparky - is there a recommended method of joining 2 wires (for wiring to engine sensors) ? I was planning on twisting them together, soldering and then heat shrink. But the Emerald documentation suggests that crimping 'can' be better as solder can wander, or something. If that is the case, is using butt connectors the way forward? This site gives a good description of crimping but doesn't really suggest if it is better: http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Cable_crimping

Westfield are building driverless cars! http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-35432687

I'm not using a water rail on my 2.0 Zetec but I'm not sure exactly what pipework/connections I need. This setup is nice and simple: https://goo.gl/photos/MjFPsWGeym4eu66U6 .... But this one has a couple of extra pipes: https://goo.gl/photos/ugv4oc9EF7PPjzHE7 Any suggestions for which is best or other ideas?

Thanks all - didn't realise there would be a gearbox-specific oil. Found some and ordered...

My MT75 gearbox has a sticker on it telling me to fill it with GL-4 oil. I filled my diff with GL-5 oil and have some left over and I was going to just use that in the gearbox, on the assumption that GL-5 is the improved version and thus better. However, doing some research, I found this: http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf ...which suggests this is not a good idea. Can anyone confirm/debunk this?

Can't Premier help you out? I'm just about to buy some fly leads from Emerald to go with their ECU and they have promised it will include details on where bits go etc...

Makes sense - thanks...

OK, only just getting near to doing the cooling system - basic question; do I have to use any metal tubes? Can you not do the whole system in silicone tubes?

Surely you could strip it and sell the parts for 10x that amount? A quick check on eBay has: £50 for pair of lights (front or rear) £50 for front/rear seats (£100 if they're leather) £25 for front/rear bumper £20 for front grille £10 - £20 for various bits of interior trim (chrome strips, ashtray console, door handles etc) £5 for air vent covers!

Darn, that's a shame - thanks.

Just wondering if this still happens every 2nd Sunday at the Shy Horse?

Does anyone know which warning lights you MUST have for IVA? There's a section in the manual listing all the possibilities but it doesn't say which ones they will check for. I can see that each section says if it needs one but I don't want to miss any, which would be my luck.

Yeah, they were so good I sometimes even turned the sound on

Spoke to Tiger this morning and this is normal. They recommend making up a blanking plate to stop crud getting in but they say they haven't had anyone take out their gearbox yet. I might make a skid plate as well...

Not only that but also I'll get loads of road crud potentially flying up into the bell housing, no?

Has anyone else got this combination? I've just fitted mine and I'm a little concerned as the sump is so shallow that the flywheel is 5-10mm lower than the sump: http://goo.gl/photos/CRCfSa1PUejPWBo98 Anyone had this and just left it or done anything about it?

No problems - the thought was there...

Damn, that's good of you - sending PM.

The GBS radiator is priced at £120 or so but a similar sized one here: http://www.adrad.co.uk/prices/prices.php?id=VW302&model=KIT%20CAR&make=KIT%20CAR ...is only £26. I know I shouldn't just go by money but that's a tempting saving. Any opinions on why I shouldn't?

You do :-) I use the eBay app, not the website, so I don't have the Url easily to hand to post the link, otherwise I would, honest. Thanks for doing that... Dave, they are 51cm across the base and I have 48cm between tunnel and side. But the guy reckons the measurement is pessimistic (he would though) and also the sides have padding which should give a bit, so hopefully they'll squeeze in.