dandan62

I have looked at the Haynes manual and I think what you are after is the "driveshaft joint cover". It looks like this is part of the driveshaft and I also cannot find a replacement for you. I believe you may need to replace the driveshaft as you thought also. I think this is it on ebay possibly? 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130955392057

Hi. You may not have noticed that this thread is 8 years old. It so happens though that I had a similar wiring issue and after some advice got these diodes from ebay which worked to prevent hazards flashing when indicating. I'm not an electronic expert. All I can say is they did the job and no fire yet! 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131705279273

I think the S7 often ended up with a large gap. The wheels were often not well centred either. I've seen a few like that. I also have 15 " wheels and standard Sierra springs and shocks. I'd like to keep my ground clearance as it is so I'm living with it. The gap goes down about 2" with people inboard. 

Update. I have come to the conclusion the replacement has the same fault. The whole cluster was sold as spares/repair so it was a gamble anyway. Googling shows it to be a common issue on these old Sierra rev counters. Probably an easy fix for someone with electronic knowledge and an oscilloscope! I've bought a cheap modern replacement which works fine. I'll eventually replace everything with matching instruments. Nice winter job! 

Hi. I know Uniroyal rainsport 3 tyres used to be mentioned often. I used to have them until I changed wheel sizes. They seemed good. I suppose it depends on the sort of driving you will be doing. They are just a good all-rounder dry/wet tyre. 

PS. I'm also a 1.6 pinto runner

Personally I would get rid of the viscous fan and fit a good quality electric. I think most people do this, including me, and don't have issues. One reason I did this when mine stopped doing its job like yours, was I only run a 1.6 so every bhp counts! The engine has to drive that big fan round. 

I received my replacement rev counter. Sadly I have the same issue. Only reading about half revs. I'm confused now. I suppose it's possible it has the same fault. I know these were fairly standard kit it early Sierra based kits so anybody any ideas? I would have thought either a coil produces a signal or doesn't. Can it have a fault to give only half a signal? Excuse my ignorance... 

At least I now have a spare set of instruments! 

Thanks for the reply. It's the standard Sierra electronic one. Not adjustable. I'm pretty sure it's something on the cb that's gone because of the miswire. There are several capacitors. Not my field sadly. I've tracked down a replacement which should be here soon. Hopefully it will work. 

Cheers. 

I have a quick release as well. I'm about 5'10 and it all fits well. Seats were bought used and I have no idea of the maker I'm afraid. 

Hi. I have a flat bottommed removable 30 cm steering wheel which solved the issue. It may be possible also to raise your steering column a bit depending on how far up it already is.

Stupid stupid! I did a job that involved removing the coil. I put in back 180 degs off by mistake so connected everything back up in reverse. Went for a drive. It ran fine surprisingly! Then noticed the rev counter only reading about half the revs. Got home checked coil and saw my error. Put it all back the right way around. Sadly the rev counter is still only half reading and sluggish. I have double checked all connections. Have I ruined it? Any ideas anyone? Anyone got one in that bin in the corner of the shed for me?

I've got an S7 and am very happy with it. It's an older design but I'd just be happy with what you have. Pros and cons with both.

I'm not sure now! Just seen other pics you have. Sorry to confuse. Easy for you to decide if you do the tube or monocoque test. This will help also.

https://nw.rhocar.org/identification.htm

Hi. I noticed your  engine start up vid and the comment about it being an S7? You really need to know before swapping the dash unit. A 2B ( not B2) has a tubular structure ( as in tubey). The S7 is made from a folded flat sheet of steel to make a monocoque. From the little I can see in the video it looks like a 2B. 

I used a Cortina bottom hose. Plenty on eBay.

Hi. I also have a stormforce 4 layer from coveryourcar. I've had it 3 years now and it has been great. Keeps the car dry. No condensation which is the killer with cheaper ones. I tried the £40 ish ones before and ended up with corroded electrics etc from condensation. None of that so far with this. About £150 but worth it.

Thank you. My only thought was could the old pump and regulator throw out some crud. There are probably pros and cons..

I have a basic set up. 1600 pinto with a Weber carb, original machanical pump and regulator. Up till now I have relied on the tiny mesh filter in the carb. I think it's time to fit a proper in line one. Best place to fit it? For convenience and easiness to see I would fit it between the regulator and carb. Could fit before the mechanical pump and regulator though. Is there any benefit either way?

Cheers

David

Hi. My old vinyl roof needed some TLC as it was very faded and I felt it needed feeding like leather. I had some stuff in the shed called Polytrol colour restorer  so tried on a small area. Seemed good so applied it all over last summer. Came up like new and is still looking very good a year later. The car lives outside. Of course I can't guarantee it won't rot it in the long term but I'll stick with it. 

I have considered that but I'm old fashioned and quite like the idea of keeping the reliable mechanical one to do the main work. Only a thought at the moment....

I read somewhere that you can wire them through the solenoid so they only activate on startup? Setup with 2 t pieces to run in parallel with the mechanical pump. This helps when the car has been left for a while to stop the long turnover needed? Anyone done this? 

It was made from 2"x1" box section steel. All done with an angle grinder. The only tool in my tool box Some people use U section but i thought leaving the outer edge closed would add some strength. It seems to be holding up well so far. I'm sure there are neater solutions out there but it does the job.

Hi there. Can't help you with brake advice but I'm in Bury. Other side of Storrington. There are a few new members in the area. Scope for a meet when we are allowed. 

David

I see your problem. According to the manual the barrel needs to be in position 1 with the key for it to be removed. A quick Google shows a couple of options. If you are very lucky, your barrel will have the key code stamped on the outside somewhere. 1980's security! Some old school locksmiths will be able to make a key. Other option is to drill out the shear bolts? 

Hopefully someone will be along with an easier option. Keep looking for the key

All done.