Jon Green

Thanks for those pictures Alan, i see your build has the bottom mounting hole enlarged so that it will fit to the incorrectly spaced mounts behind too. We will, in true RHE ethos be resourceful!

I'm really not sure that the alternator, which came with the car, loosely hanging on one bolt is the correct one for my engine... The part number of it isn't easily read but starts 5402..... The more I look at the car the more I see that's been messed with.... Can anyone advise which is the correct alternator for the T16 engine with steering pump? Thanks, Jon

Another pic

My power steering pump is above the alternator.. . perhaps they're on the brackets in the wrong positions? I really can't see how the alternator could be mounted any further forward on the lower mounts where it is now and it doesn't seem to line up that great with them either

Thank Andy, yes it’s definitely mounted incorrectly. Off to the garage shortly to try to get to the bottom of it.

Hi All We're progressing on with our superspec repairs now that we have an engine that starts..😃. There's so many things on the car that have been messed with and not put back together right, even bolts missing from brake calipers, manifold bolts etc. Out next step is to get the plumbing sorted so we can run the engine to temperature. There's no belt on the water pump and alternator but I can't see how this is going to work as the alternator pulley is around 2" backwards from the line the belt should run on. Does anyone have any photos of that area on their cars they could post for me to get some insights into what's wrong with ours? I'll get a pic of ours later too. Cheers, Jon

Yes, a new fuel pump stopped the fuse blowing and delivered fuel. The injection system not squirting fuel in turned out to be down to the ECU not having the immobiliser removed. Starts now but still lots of work to do on the coolant system before we can run it to temperature. Progress though!

A great success! The engine now runs thanks to Paul at Technozen’s immobiliser removal modification. Now on to the enormous list of other things to sort out on the car. As always, many thanks for the help you all give on this forum.

Today I received the ECU back from Paul. He tested the ECU and found it to be working as standard and applied his immobilizer fix. Brilliant service! I'm pretty confident the car will start now but haven't had chance to test it yet.... Will let you know how we get on. Thanks as always for the help and advice. Jon

Thanks chaps, email sent! I will await the solution. 🙃

Hi All, I’ve still got a non running super spec after several months of tinkering. I am left with one final issue which is stopping it firing up. No Injection of fuel - the ecu isn’t telling the injectors to open. There is fuel pressure at the rail and power to the injectors but no injection. I watched a YouTube vid of a guy removing the immobiliser from a men’s 1.6 ecu by recoding a chip then cutting pin 13 inside the ecu box. I’ve checked my ecu and pin 13 has not been cut. The car has not run for me or the previous owner so I’m wondering if the ecu has been replaced at some point to fix a problem but without the immobiliser removed. Does anyone know if Robin Hood Engineering cut pin 13 in their superspec cars as part of the immobiliser fix?? Thanks, Jon

That's exactly what I thought. I ordered a right side caliper, which sure enough has a letter R embossed on it but it is a left side. I thought I was going mad or put my original calipers on the wrong side or something but I've just found a caliper on autodoc that says it's for the left side, has an L embossed on it but is definitely for the right of my 2b. 😵‍💫

So that would make this a left hand caliper?

Bought from eBay. Seller insists it is for the side it was listed for but I think it's the other..... Which side do you think this is for? Mk1 sierra

All running again! 😅

Cheers Ian, my setup is back to standard cam as i found the FR33 cam very lumpy with a very narrow power band. So with the standard cam in I shouldn’t have mashed anything! 😅

Hi All, Tonight i was working on my 2B, doing some of those many final jobs before i put her back on the road. It’s been laid up for 7 years. I started her up a couple of weeks ago just to make sure all was okay and she ticked over nicely. I thought I’d get her out of the garage tonight and turn her around to give better access to the side i have work to do on. The engine cranked for about 15 seconds, sounding normal but not firing and then suddenly the engine cranking speed sped up. I probably cranked it for another 15 seconds before i thought it really didn’t sound right. I lifted the bonnet and saw that the timing belt had snapped and only the bottom of the engine was turning over. As it never fired, will i have caused any damage to valves etc? And also, strangely enough I’ve had a spare timing belt under my bed for the last 20 years, still in its box… do you think it’ll be okay to use? Looks brand new still… thanks, Jon

Thanks Andy, That’s great info. Sounds like there is definitely something incorrectly wired up…. I was going down the rabbit hole of the ecu being duff but upon reading your info and studying the wiring diagram i see that the 12v supply comes directly from the main relay to the injector NK wire and also feeds pin 28 (ecu positive feed) so if our wiring was correct we’d certainly have 12v. we’ll have a look in the next few days and report back…. I think this injector issue is the only thing now stopping the engine starting….

We've removed the injector assembly now. Rightly or wrongly I've touched a 12v supply to one of the injector connectors and can hear a click which is what I expected to hear. Listening to the injectors whilst the engine is cranking I hear no clicking, so I don't think they're opening to deliver fuel. I've just put a volt meter on the brown/pink going to the injectors multipin connection and got around 4.5v with ignition on which doesn't seem right. Battery is putting out 12.8v. Can anyone confirm the voltage I should be getting? I'm assuming there's a constant positive supply to all the injectors and the ECU makes the negative connect to open the injectors as and when required. Thanks Jon

UCranking speed does seem to be slow. I even put my big van battery on the car and there was little improvement in cranking speed. We don't seem to have any earth strap to the engine. Might improve it? Or perhaps the starter is tired? Or perhaps these engines just don't crank quickly? Regarding trying an alternative injection assembly, I think it is more likely to be a wiring issue, or at least we need to do some more work checking through that side beforehand. Vacuum pipes.... Our pipe to the rocker cover is snapped off and our connection to the ECU is 'sloppy' and certainly not air tight. Would these cause none injection? Thanks for the continued support!

Thanks for running that test Alan. Presumably if the CPS isn’t reading correctly that would infulence the injectors. I’ll private message you about borrowing your working cps sensor. I think that may be the most direct route to diagnose our issue. we do seem to have a good healthy spark on all the plugs, but it might not be at the right time 😉 Cheers Jon

Thanks Andy, the previous owner had the o/p and - reversed so that's hopefully the reason that our ECU thought we'd got 100% throttle all the time.

Here’s an update! We’ve fitted the new fuel pump and we are now getting fuel through the rail and returning back to the tank. Obviously the temporary pump i was using wasn’t achieving enough pressure to open the fuel pressure regulator valve. We’ve tested the resistance of the crankshaft position sensor and got 1490ohms so that appears okay. I’ve still to check that it is run in a screened cable - it’s certainly not screened all the way… Checked the resistance of the injectors 18.1 ohms on each of them and the continuity of their wires back to the ecu. On the throttle position sensor we have been reading 100% at all times so I’ve checked the wiring to it. I think the o/p connection and neg were the wrong way around. Could anyone tell me positions of the yellow/ purple, yellow /green and black / pink wires…. The throttle position sensor has markings on it indicating +,o/p and -. I currently have + as Yellow/ purple (pin 9), o/p as Yellow/green (pin 8 ) and - as black/ pink (pin 30) Finally can any super spec owner recommend a battery as we’re currently cranking the engine with the battery off my 2b and it doesn’t appear to have enough beens regardless of being quite new. So now we have fuel and spark but no bang yet. But we’re getting closer!

Hi Chaps, That’s very kind of you both and we may well take you up on the offer. Our plan of action is to fit the new fuel pump and see if that allows the fuel injection and fuel regulator to function correctly. I suspect that some of the other sensors are wired incorrectly or just not wired at all, so we’ll work our way through each to check them electrically. Hopefully after that we’ll have an engine that starts. After that the coolant system has been butchered, there’s no gearbox mount, very few lights / indicators work and there’s no wipers…. And so on! Thanks, Jon & Thomas

Thants brilliant information guys, thank you. We will be spending some time on the car tonight so will let you know how we get on.