Jon Green

Thanks Andy,

That’s great info.  Sounds like there is definitely something incorrectly wired up…. I was going down the rabbit hole of the ecu being duff but upon reading your info and studying the wiring diagram i see that the 12v supply comes directly from the main relay to the injector NK wire and also feeds pin 28 (ecu positive feed) so if our wiring was correct we’d certainly have 12v.

we’ll have a look in the next few days and report back…. I think this injector issue is the only thing now stopping the engine starting….

We've removed the injector assembly now. Rightly or wrongly I've touched a 12v supply to one of the injector connectors and can hear a click which is what I expected to hear.  Listening to the injectors whilst the engine is cranking I hear no clicking, so I don't think they're opening to deliver fuel.

I've just put a volt meter on the brown/pink going to the injectors multipin connection and got around 4.5v with ignition on which doesn't seem right.  Battery is putting out 12.8v.

Can anyone confirm the voltage I should be getting?  I'm assuming there's a constant positive supply to all the injectors and the ECU makes the negative connect to open the injectors as and when required.

Thanks Jon

UCranking speed does seem to be slow.  I even put my big van battery on the car and there was little improvement in cranking speed.  We don't seem to have any earth strap to the engine.  Might improve it? Or perhaps the starter is tired? Or perhaps these engines just don't crank quickly?

Regarding trying an alternative injection assembly, I think it is more likely to be a wiring issue, or at least we need to do some more work checking through that side beforehand.

Vacuum pipes.... Our pipe to the rocker cover is snapped off and our connection to the ECU is 'sloppy' and certainly not air tight.  Would these cause none injection?

Thanks for the continued support!

Thanks for running that test Alan.  Presumably if the CPS isn’t reading correctly that would infulence the injectors.  I’ll private message you about borrowing your working cps sensor.  I think that may be the most direct route to diagnose our issue.

we do seem to have a good healthy spark on all the plugs, but it might not be at the right time

Cheers Jon

Thanks Andy, the previous owner had the o/p and - reversed so that's hopefully the reason that our ECU thought we'd got 100% throttle all the time.

Here’s an update!

We’ve fitted the new fuel pump and we are now getting fuel through the rail and returning back to the tank.  Obviously the temporary pump i was using wasn’t achieving enough pressure to open the fuel pressure regulator valve.

We’ve tested the resistance of the crankshaft position sensor and got 1490ohms so that appears okay.  I’ve still to check that it is run in a screened cable - it’s certainly not screened all the way…

Checked the resistance of the injectors 18.1 ohms on each of them and the continuity of their wires back to the ecu.

On the throttle position sensor we have been reading 100% at all times so I’ve checked the wiring to it. I think the o/p connection and neg were the wrong way around.  Could anyone tell me positions of the yellow/ purple, yellow /green and black / pink wires…. The throttle position sensor has markings on it indicating +,o/p and -.  I currently have + as Yellow/ purple (pin 9), o/p as Yellow/green (pin 8 ) and - as black/ pink (pin 30) 

Finally can any super spec owner recommend a battery as we’re currently cranking the engine with the battery off my 2b and it doesn’t appear to have enough beens regardless of being quite new.

So now we have fuel and spark but no bang yet.  But we’re getting closer!

Hi Chaps,

That’s very kind of you both and we may well take you up on the offer.

Our plan of action is to fit the new fuel pump and see if that allows the fuel injection and fuel regulator to function correctly.  I suspect that some of the other sensors are wired incorrectly or just not wired at all, so we’ll work our way through each to check them electrically.  Hopefully after that we’ll have an engine that starts.

After that the coolant system has been butchered, there’s no gearbox mount, very few lights / indicators work and there’s no wipers…. And so on!

Thanks, 

Jon & Thomas

Thants brilliant information guys, thank you.   We will be spending some time on the car tonight so will let you know how we get on.

Hi Alan, yes all downloaded.  It now appears, from what you’ve just posted that the flow and the returns on the car have been incorrectly plumbed up.  No wonder the last owner couldn’t make it run!

Analysis program was run whilst cranking the engine… Thomas loves a bit of tech messing.

Some progress!

Fuel to the regulator now achieved - engine cranking but plugs dry and no fuel coming out of the fuel return pipe….  Do fuel regulators fail and stop the flow of fuel or should I be moving on to check the injectors?

Just done a bit of research and now I’m questioning whether the fuel supply pipe is coming into the correct end of my fuel rail.  Currently it goes to the forward end of the T16 injector rail…?

Hi All,

We’re slowly making progress getting our recently purchased none running super spec back on the road.  It’s still not running but we are working our way through the wiring loom correcting and labelling up everything.  So far we have a starter motor that cranks the engine, sparks on the plugs, albeit a little weak and a fuel relay that switches the pump on and off as it should.

Unfortunately the fuel pump blows the 10 amp fuse when it is energised and does nothing else.  The question is, can the pump be removed from the sender unit or is a whole new sender and fuel pump required?

Thanks,

Jon 

It's actually this car that I've bought from Andrew shutt:

Here's her last night about to leave Andrews care.

On 3/18/2025 at 4:39 PM, wazcov said:

Hi Jon. 

Al is right that we haven’t managed to get mine started but in this time I’ve learned more about engines than I could have ever done if it had actually worked properly. Everything from how the ECU controls sparks to starter motor, timing belts, cylinder compression, etc so I can say it’s certainly good for learning.
 

I don’t know how useful that stuff will be as the world moves electric but it’s interesting nonetheless. 
 

I’d definitely be interested to follow along as you progress. 

Well it's now sat on my driveway having been collected last night. So many things that need attention on it but we'll start by getting the engine running (hopefully) then move on from there.

Cheers Jon

That sounds like very good advice. Thanks  

Whilst cleaning up my trailing arms one of them has developed some holes in the spring cup.  

Does anyone have any experience welding them up or should I be looking for a replacement?

Bought it now so I expect to be pretty active on the forum in the coming months. 

Hi All,

I’m considering buying a superspec that’s been laid up for a few years. The current owner has never run the engine having bought it after the previous owner had started to apparently remove the engine wiring loom ready for an engine change to a turbo version.  The current owner has had a new loom made and has attempted to start the engine but hasn’t had it fire.  He’s also stripped the interior out, removed the windscreen to put in a carbon fibre dash and aero screens.

Having already got a 2b+ that I built myself 20 yrs ago I thought a project kit car for my 15yr old son would be a good way to get for him to gain knowledge of cars and look good on his cv.

Just after a reality check…. Am i mad?  

Hi All,

On with changing my original RH coil-overs to Gaz shocks...

On the rear, lower mountings that locate in the original spring cups on the sierra trailing arms on my 2B I always got a pond forming on a wet drive.  This was because the bolt to hold the lower mounting bracket sealed up the drainage hole in the arm.  

I never got around to drilling another hole. I was wondering what others have done to solve this issue?  

Thanks Jon

Gaz coil overs now purchased.  

Thanks all.  I’ll have to investigate the cost of Gaz coil overs….

They’re the original ones RH sold with the 2B wishbone chassis. Green springs.  I think from memory the RH brochure had a scantily clad lady riding one…. I hope I’ve not invented that in my head  

Hi All,

I’m busy getting my 2B back on the road for the coming year after 6 years of hibernation.  I’m refreshing the front suspension, repainting the wishbones etc.  I noticed that the top and bottom bushes on my RH coil overs are quite squashed, allowing the shocker eyelet to make metal on metal contact with the lower wishbone bracket.  Does anyone know if it’s possible to replace the bushes and if so, with what?

Many thanks, Jon

(happy to be back reading and posting! ;-))

Thanks for the responses chaps,

I built my car 11 years ago and wired it with the help of my dad who's a sparky. We mostly followed the sierra haynes wiring I think though i'm not entirely sure.

I have two relays for the lighting, 1 for the headlamps and the other for main beam.

The 3 amp feed to the column stalks feeds;

On the wiper side, right :

Red pin 30

Black pin 15

On the main beam side, left;

Black and Brown pin 15

Haven't got a another 3 amp fuse to hand so i've popped a 20 amp in..... though I will swap it for a 5 amp asap.

Nigel, you mention that some of these supply's aren't fused before the the column so should I be leaving the 20 amp fuse in place and adding in some lower amp fuses after the column?

And what's the best way to split the lighting feeds up so that I can't have a total failure again? I guess that if I feed my brown / black wire separately I'd at least have a main beam flash even if power to the right-hand side of the column failed?

Help appreciated! I'm just getting back into driving my 2b after a extended period of it being laid up due to a baby and associated pressures on time and finances. He's 7 now so it's about time it came out of the garage again!

Hi All,

Whilst out for a spin today I switched on my fog light only for it to blow the fuse. Turns out that all my lights were fed through the same 3 amp fuse so they were all lost. Fortunately not a problem as it was only a brief bank of mist.

On further investigation tonight I've found that the 3 amp fuse supply's 3 wires in the column switches. A red, a black / brown and a chunky black. They're 1983 sierra stalks.

I'm guessing that these live feeds should have separate feeds and fuses so this can't happen?

I could have been in the s**t if it'd been dark!

Jon

No points arf, I used to but changed to the setup that big jim recommended.

Think i'll try and get another coil from the scrapy tomorrow and swap it. Fingers crosses it'll bust into life again.

Thanks for all the help chaps.