kelvinnoel

i have a pair of grp seats for sale not a mark on them ,i bought them to fit in my 3a but never got round to it .£250 ono ,there are photos of them on facebook market place

thanks dan ,i will check it out ,i think i will staywith the original dampers as the car has only done 3000 since its original build and just replace the springs ,i also remember seeing a drawing somewhere of a replacement tie bar system i think it is on here but finding out where is a bit like looking for a needle in a hay stack

hi guys ,

after all the covid problems i have decided to fix the front suspension on my 3a ,at the moment it,s almost solid the only softness is in the tyres ,so i need softer front springs ,i have read somewhere that 120pound rating is needed as opposed to the standard 170s and replace the anti roll bar with (it is big enough to fit a centurian tank) with small tie bars ,so i need to know where i can buy them ,any advice would be much appriciated

Has anybody got an idea how much it would cost to send a pinto head and with who ,i think some companies won,t handle something of that weight ,i,m sending from yorkshire to southhampton

Water in the tank?

many thankx longboarder

Well last year the rear shocker snapped ,today one of the front ones snapped at the threads so more expendature ,is there ever any respite ,I only want to go for the occasional run out ,OK now the serious bit ,new dampers and springs ,damper tach i assume but reccomendations on lengght and spring rating ,the car is fitted with its originals atm but i have not started to remove them yet so don,t know any details ,if any as the are rusted up thaonks guy,s

kelvin

Thanks gentlemen

i have been trying to figure out what i can use as a n insulator ,i thought glassfibre insulaton but how to fix it in place ,need to mull it over

Finally I have got a working clutch (admitedly we have had 2 holidays inbetween and i have had major problems with my kia but thats for another forum) it turns out the heat from the exhaust had melted the plastic sheeth on the cable and blocked the cable running free,so out it went and a new one fitted but its over long ,the rprevious owner had split a piece of wood to space it off ,I AM not quite that much of a cowboy ,so i,ve made a bracket and sleeve to fit the cable and hey presto a working car ,now i need to give her a good clean down and polish and the open road here we come ,but not today its too warm and i,m tired with a capitol "F"

Rant number 2 on our way to the caravan for a few days and a prat in a jag 4x4 decides he needs to be over the white line to overtake a parked car and hits my door mirror smashing that and the drivers side window and just keeps going .I can,t remember breaking a mirror lately rant over

thanks richy very interesting read ,i will try some of the suggestions

following on from my last post about clutch problems i decided to change the clutch assembly ,I got the car up on ramps and axel stands at the rear only to find that the floor pan has been welded ,so the gear box carn,t be slid back to get to the clutch ,so the engine need s to come out ,not easy when you don,t have lifting gear ,thing is the clutch looks almost new no oil on it in fact it has a little rust on it so its dry ,I am at a loss as to why it won,t disengage ,well half the time i got it on the ramps with no trouble .I am at a LOSS at the moment ,maybe i wil loosen it off while in place and blow out any crap with the compressor never know i could work .rant over i,ll try it tomorrow

used last weekend ,it has been iffy for a while ,hard to select gear .I do think the clutch plate is not disengaging,so I,m guessing the pressure plate is knackered

its as though the plate is not disengaging but the cable is ok, tight enough

It just won't engage but the car tries to move forward

Hi people, I just can't get any gears, I have no problem when the engine is not running so assume the clutch is the problem what I need to know is any tips or possible pit falls ,it's a 3a with a 2.0 pinto and type 9 gearbox , I was hoping for a easy year this time round but the kit car gods seem to have a different plan

No 1 is the front of the car neatest to rad

Weber I'm

So yesterday ii fitted the EFI head with newman high torque cam ,did a test run ,but not that much difference ,its set up right cam timing etc rechecked ignition that,s ok plugs are a good colour ,I think I might take it to the rolling road and see if they can do anything ,Ii do have a set of bike carbs to fit but I,m leaving them until i retire in 5 weeks time ,hopefully I will see a marked improvement in performance then.more to come ,

ta ra for nar

Thanks cb ,did you weld the tie bar to the box section or thread it and double nut it?

Many thanks sir

where to mount them, lenght, fixing bracket ,optimum angle do they need to be rigid on to the chassis or mounted to allow vertical movement ,i can fix and engine ,brakes etc but suspension is a foreign land to me

thanks duck interesting read ,i don,t know if the s7 is of similar design to the 3a and the diagram does not give too much detail, i was looking for an after market kit if possible ,I do have my own welding kit and access to steel and the equipment to make (i,m a retired mechanical engineer) one myself but i need more accurate design details ,it could be possible that this could also be the cause of  my front near side locking up under heavy brakeing the same as someone else posted recently on here having the same trouble  

having started a discussion on ride comfort (or the lack of it) I,m thinking of replacing the sierra antiroll bar (it looks as tho, it should be fitted to a sherman tank it,s that big)so are tiebars the way to go ,and are there any pictures or build videos to guide me,all help would be much appriciated it,s on a 3a .