mickpond

Hi. Whilst browsing I came across this old post and thought some owners might find the following interesting. All figures are approx. Using Megadodo's data then I will assume a 2B with 2L Pinto weighs 750 Kgs. Standard Pinto gives 105 BHP. My 2L Pinto has been lightly tuned by Vulcan Eng. with Gas Flowed Head, Kent Cam, 4 Branch Manifold with Caterham Silencer, 4 Honda Fireblade carbs and gave a Dyno figure of 134 BHP. Subaru Impreza 2L Turbo weighs 1240 Kgs and gives 218 BHP (My favourite car). POWER TO WEIGHT FIGURES: Standard 2L Pinto 105/0.75 = 140 BHP/Tonne. My 2L Pinto 134/0.75 = 178 BHP/Tonne Subaru 2L Turbo 218/1.25 = 176 BHP/Tonne. Even the Standard Pinto figures are pretty impressive. Now the Subaru has 4 wheel drive and the Turbo and a 0 - 60 time of 5.8 Secs. I know just by feel that my 2B will not approach that figure (I have had 3 Subaru Turbos). However, the Pinto feels to have much better mid-range torque. So, under normal driving conditions, on the move, on B roads with some traffic I reckon it would hold it's own. I know that, when overtaking, if I drop a cog, I am impressed with the acceleration and short time it takes to overtake something. I'm quite happy for anyone to rip apart the above figures or statements. Also, like Alimcc, I would be interested if somebody has tried some 0 - 60 times. I am not a good enough driver to get a true indicative figure. Cheers. Mick.

The next time the garage is clear (I'm working on something else at the moment) I will get the RH in, jack it up, and see if I have an access plate. Fingers crossed!! Mick.

Several of the replies indicate that you only need to get to the Diff end of the shaft. This is fine when removing the shaft. However, when replacing the shaft, the UJ on the splined (Gearbox) end will allow the splines to flop about. I would have thought it very difficult to get them to enter the Gearbox if you can't get access to support and guide them.

Thanks for the replies and possible solutions. I think I will go for Chris's solution of a hinged side panel. Cheers. Mick.

On the assumption that, if I know how my 2B was built, I will know how to take it apart, I have been watching the Build videos and the following has struck me. Order of build/installation is shown as: Engine and Gearbox. Rear subframe and axle, Propshaft. You then start putting on the panels. When this is done you cannot see the front of the Propshaft from above or below. To remove the Engine and Gearbox you first need to remove the Propshaft so how do you get at the front? It would not make sense to cut out the Floorpan and if you remove the top of the Transmission tunnel panels it is still covered by the twin chassis tubes. Lots of you must have removed the engine and gearbox from a built 2B so what is the procedure? Cheers. Mick.

OK. Found them on Youtube. I can work my way through them slowly so as to give myself time to digest one part before moving onto the next. Cheers. Mick.

I did not build my 2B but bought it 3rd hand. If I could see how it was put together it has got to be useful should I have to take anything off. So, could somebody loan me their Build video for a few weeks? I will return it within a month and pay any P&P incurred. Is there anyway I can find out what the Donor vehicle was? The Reg No is E104 DRM. Cheers, Mick.

A few weeks ago I posted a topic titled "Suspension Setup specialist". The ride and handling on my RH was terrible. I had bad Bump Steer where, if I hit a bump, the wheel would leave the ground and when it landed would veer off. It was unpredictable and would sometimes go right and sometimes left. Result was I had to grip the steering wheel tightly and was constantly correcting. There were a couple of places that members have recommended but both were around Birmingham about 150 miles away. I decided to try one further South in the hope of adding a closer one to the recommended list. I found one at Kemble near Cirencester (80 miles from me) and booked it in. They found and corrected the following: Camber - NS cambered in 10 mm, OS cambered out 5 mm (Should be very slightly cambered in). Tracking - 10 mm Toed in (should be straight ahead). They also found the Steering rack Tie rod ends were different lengths and so were the top Wishbones. Additionally they lowered the front ride height so that (they said) the wind would tend to push the front down as apposed to trying to lift it. It has also reduced the spring pre-tension and given me a slightly softer ride. The transformation is amazing. The car is a joy to drive. Took them just under 3 hours and cost £250 including VAT. So, I can highly recommend them. Details are: Neil Garner Motorsport. Unit 8. Kemble business Park. Nr Malmesbury. SN16 9SH 01666 577449 Cheers. Mick.

I can't post photos. I am not the Builder and neither was the previous owner so don't know history. I have used Bob's quick method of checking Camber and got the following. Measuring over a distance of 15" (diameter of wheel). Drivers side wheel is leaning OUT, at the top, by 5 mm. Passengers side wheel is leaning IN by 10mm. Bob says both should lean in slightly. There are several things about the car that lead me to think that the car was built and setup for track use and has not been changed. I have decided to get suspension checked and setup for road use. I have found someone near Cirencester. When it's been done I will report back. Hopefully I will be able to add someone to the clubs "Recommended List". Thanks for all the interest. Mick.

Hi. Thanks for all the feedback. I'm running tyres at the recommended 18 -20. I'm interested in the Handling Kit. The GBS site lists 2. ET 15 and ET35. More info please on what you get and the difference 15 to 35. Mine has already been converted to Wishbones so will it still be an advantage to me? Still waiting for someone to recommend a place to get setup checked. I will use Bob's method of checking Camber as soon as I can borrow a long Spirit Level. Cheers. Mick.

My 2B has GAZ shocks all round, double Wishbones at the front and 195/50 X 15 tyres. I've only had it a few weeks and the suspension was rock hard. A visit to Bob Fry led to me contacting Dave at Dampertec. His advice resulted in me finding that the damping was set too high. However, the setup does still not feel right and there is no steering self centring. I am thinking of taking it to a Suspension setup specialist. I now know that the GAZ have adjusters for ride height and damping but the clamping/fixing points are set so the angle of the unit cannot be changed. So, I can setup ride height and damping by trial and error. I have gear that will check Tracking (Toe in/toe out) so will I gain anything by getting things like Camber checked? If the consensus is yes then are there any specialists in the South. I have seen Procomp Motorsport and Centre Gravity mentioned on the forum but they are both around Birmingham. There is a place called Analogue Automotive at Petersfield. Does any member have experience of them or any other companies in the South? As an aside, I'm also thinking of fitting narrower tyres on the front (I realize I will need new rims). Any thoughts on the effects of doing that? Cheers. Mick.

Thanks for all the replies. Car arrives tomorrow so will jack her up and have a good look to see what is bolted and where. Can then get a bit more specific with questions and add photos (How do I do that?). Will take up your offer of a visit Bob. If you give me directions and phone No. I will contact you when I sort out the Seat/Pedals problem and can safely drive it. I also am retired so am flexible with my time. Cheers. Mick.

I have just bought a Robin Hood. It has an E plate but was first registered 2005. It has a Tubular chassis and double Wishbones(?) on the front. Being a complete novice I could do with some info and advice on the following. 1) Tyres sizes are 195/50 x 15. What is the lowest safe pressure I can run them at? 2)Reason for asking is that the suspension is rock hard. Lower pressures may give a softer ride unless the spring tension is adjustable as on motorbikes. If it is then where is the adjuster? 3) I am 5ft 10in but cannot reach the pedals unless I sit forward in the seat (previous owner was 6ft 3in). Is the pedal position adjustable or do I need to unbolt and remove seat then drill new fixing holes further forward? 4)When/if I need spares is there a company that specialises in Robin Hoods? 5) When I have sorted the pedals/seat out and can drive the car is there anybody in the Southampton/Winchester area that would spend an hour talking me through the car? An hour with someone that knows the cars could save me days trying to feel my way around. I would bring the car to them. Cheers. Mick.

Thanks for the info. No further info required. Cheers. Mick.

When looking over a Robin Hood where is the most assessable and quickest place to check to see if it has a sheet steel or tubular chassis/frame? Thanks. Mick.

OK. Thanks for finding out for me. Mick.

Message for Florins metal works. Could you find out if Helen still has the car for sale and if so I would like to have a look at it. Thanks. Mick.

Looking for something simple. My engineering and electrical skills are reasonable but electronics are a black art. So, 2L SOHC Pinto with a Twin Choke Weber would be good but will consider others. Must have SVA certificate/Robin Hood on V5/long MOT/Wet Gear. Would prefer something being sold by Builder or Factory built but not essential. Will travel up to 150 miles from Winchester/Southampton.

Hi. I received several replies to my Post and all were useful and informative. I have replied but my replies are not showing on the Forum (Can anyone explain why?) So, this is the only way I could think of to say thanks to all that replied. From the replies I have decided that I don't need anything highly tuned. I will go for carburetors because I have reasonable experience of Motorbikes and cars with carbs. Fuel Injection means an ECU and sensors and I'm not into that. To "Florian" - I would like to take you up on your offer to visit. My phone No is 01489 895412. I'm retired so very flexible with time. Cheers. Mick.

Hi. I'm looking for a Robin Hood with a 2L Pinto engine. Approximately, what would the BHP be if fitted with Weber carbs? Are there any people in Hampshire that specialise in servicing/tuning/repairing this sort of car? Replies will be appreciated. Thanks. Mick.