Burney

Update its reading now but seems to be about 50% lower than what it should be?

Hi wanted 100mm smiths tacho or equivalent

Kris

07746720311

Kbsurveying@aol.com

If I put my meter on AC and connect to sender cable would it show a current when engine is running?

Might be a silly question but whats the differece  etween the +ve and -ve side of the coil?. I'm using the original cable but prehaps its been wired wrong all along?

Hi Ian

Thank you, I tried that and no response. When I bought the car it flickered at high revs but has never been right. Is there a way to test the signal wire or do I just get a replacement instrument? They are 100 nicka new so would like to find out if this one is definately beyond economical repair.

Kris

On 4/10/2020 at 10:32 PM, Burney said:

 

Hi Nick all my rear lights are on, apart from the reverse lights. Sounds like I havent run them through the switch as agent zed suggests, I'll do some continuity tests tomorrow. I did check the black cable which goes through the light to ground so i think I just need a 12v supply to the black and blue?

Hi folks thanks I hooked up the blue and black to live and jobs a gooden

Thanks folks I'll try that out

Hi

I have a smiths speedo is it just the one big cable goes to the back of it or is the spade on the back needed to ground?

Hi

I have a smyths rev counter, can anyone advise how to wire it up?

I have a wire from the coil and a positive feed does the other just go to earth?

Anyway I can test?

Ta in advance

On 4/5/2020 at 5:48 PM, Derek said:

Following closely after the bolting horse, I found this in my archives.

When I had a pinto on EFI I found it invaluable, It may be of use in the future. 

Another tip I found very useful was to have a spare dizzy, attach it to an electric drill to spin it up. Any faults could be checked without having to turn the engine over 

Great article

I've recently replaced my foglights as they weren't working.

Can you check the continuity between the switch and light fitting using your meter?

On 12/25/2019 at 12:13 AM, nicko said:

If all your rear lights are out, I'd check earth's and then continuity of each wire. 

HTH a 

Nick 

20 minutes ago, agent_zed said:

according to the sierra haynes manual the black+blue (sw-bl) is coming from the fuse box then to the switch then out on the black(sw) which runs to the light cluster.

easy enough to test if it's open/closed with a multimeter set to continuity. just put it in and out of reverse.

I can take a pic of the diagram if that helps

Hi Nick all my rear lights are on, apart from the reverse lights. Sounds like I havent run them through the switch as agent zed suggests, I'll do some continuity tests tomorrow. I did check the black cable which goes through the light to ground so i think I just need a 12v supply to the black and blue?

Hi

I'm getting through my new loom wiring well but have stumbled at reverse lights now. There are two wires coming out of the gearbox area into the drivers side footwell. I have the black one wired as supply to the reverse lights and there is a blue and black one not connected to anything. Anyone know how I shoud wire this up?

2ltr pinto

Kris

3 hours ago, phaeton said:

Just be careful on the horn don't know on the Pinto but put a couple of these on Mini kits & the horn is wired the opposite way round 

Cheers na its straight on this one got a satisfying parp

On 3/31/2020 at 3:31 PM, richyb66 said:

Upper 5 - if there's already a relay there it it worked previously I'd be tempted to leave it it. 

Upper 6 - No this is permanent live, fed direct from the battery via a big terminal on the starter motor. This is the main power feed for all the electrics so make this wire as big as you can.

Upper 10 - this is your accessory feed so you could use this for a radio (if you felt the need to have one) or maybe fag lighter or charging sockets for phone, sat nav etc.

Lower 2 is just an ignition feed. As you say, if you don't have an electric fuel pump then one connection can be ignored. The connection of the second one will depend on what ignition system you're running. The silver plate you mention is probably the electronic ignition module. Refer to this page to identify what system you have:

https://nw.rhocar.org/Ford ignition systems.htm

2 wires going in to the distributor is inductive ignition where Lower 2 will connect to +side of the coil and the Black wire of the module.

or 3 wires going in to distributor will be ESC1 in which case Lower 2 will connect to +side of the coil and terminal 2 of the module.

The isolator switch should go in either the battery positive or earth leads, ideally as close to the battery as you can get it.

Is there any significance to the second image of the lights / wiper wiring?

 

Hi Richy, thanks for your comments. I have the vital bits swapped over and car running 1st turn

Gonna work my way through lights and accessories next. Wipers have never been wired in and theres something gone adrift with the horn switch but pleased the swap over was painless

I took it off its mounting from the bulkhead behind the ignition barrel housing and stalks but I cant see a way to take all that casting off the column behind the steering wheel mount.  I was hoping i could just un bolt that and bin it and tie on a new indicator stalk with a dash mount push button start

Thanks Richy I'll work through those

The coloured switch diagram is what I'm using as a guide to trace lights, horn wipers etc. I wanted to get rid of the ford setup but didnt realise I'd need to change to steering column

Hi

I'm wiring a new CBS prewired 'loom/fusebox' into my exmo after upgrading and adding a number of electrical fittings and accessories that were either missing or broken on the car (lights/horns/reverse/fog etc).

It has been relatively straight forward tracing the circuits to the accessories and switches using a continuity tester and diagrams of the ford stalk switches attached.

I have some general queries on the major engine component connections though and ask for comments and advice.

UPPER 5 - shows wire to + side of alternator. The existing connection comes off a relay should I leave this?

UPPER 6 shows a connection to the starter. This is the live feed to the fuse board, made live only when igniton turned?

UPPER 10 shows a connection to the accessory part of the ignition switch, whats this for?

LOWER 2 shows 2 connections one to a fuel pump (I dont think the pinto has an electric fuel pump?) and one to the positive side of the coil. There are only 2 wires I can see coming back to the existing loom from the coil and both go onto the rev counter (which doesnt work yet). Other cables from the + side of coil go into some sort of silver plate?

I have an existing battery isolator switch wired up which I like. Where is the best place for this in the new setup?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts

Kris

Thanks Alan that would be great doesnt matter about colour as I'll spray them up. Much appreciated

Skip co said they will have camera footage doesnt appear to be any other mechanical damage

Highlights issue of uverturn on my steering though???

The skip wagons just clipped my front wheel and wrecked my wheelarches. Just back from paintshop too.

Any idea where I can get replacements?

New paint job to give her a lift for the summer

Thank you thought that might be an option as doesnt seem to be many heated bucket seats on the market.

Hi after some good heated seats for my Exmo

On 12/25/2019 at 8:10 PM, alantoon said:

Run out to Hexham Sunday 29th December meet at the Holiday Inn entrance NE13 6BP to leave at10-00 am. Forcast to be a balmy 13 degrees so lets have a few more showing an interest.

Thanks for the run out today was great to meet you all

Hi folks interested in your posts mine has twin carbs but no filter fitted at all?