Jonty Wild

Enjoy, a little too far for me.

After a gap since buying my RH 2B Plus and am working on it to starting using it.

I have been looking into some overheating issues which I may have resolved (just done many things including removed the incorrect gasket covering a third of the hole!) - time will tell!  However, I have noticed an issue with the electric fan, which is wired via a thermostatic switch in the coolant system (which is earthed) and a manual switch on the dash - both continue to operate after the ignition is off, the fan had stopped coming on automatically(not the source of the overheating!).  I bought a new thermostatic switch, but when I took the original (90 degrees) out and tested both, the new one did not work and the original did, so I cleaned it up and put it back in.

The fan now turns on correctly with both switches, but is not turning off when the temperature drops significantly. If I disconnect it at the thermostatic switch and reconnect it immediately, the fan does not restart (only tested this with ignition off), but does start and stop with the dash switch (as expected). I also noticed once, that when I switched the dash switch on and off (ignition off), the fan stopped, but has this hasn't happened again, so far, it may have been coincidence. I am now wondering about the wiring or the thermostatic switch.  I thoughts, ideas suggestion?

If others think that it is still worth changing the thermostatic switch anyone know a supplier of the small thread diameter, so that I don't need to change the housing?

Also, mine is the single connector variety, as the new one I bought (double connector) doesn't work, can I check my logic for the double connector type (which seem easier to get) do both connectors have the same function when the the thermostatic switch is on (hot) - I'll describe that as both +, or is one + and the other -?

Not yet. Got all the bits, got to find time to fit them - next dry day - this year is is a RH write off in terms of use I am afraid. I will make more effort next year!

18 hours ago, Jez Morton said:

When you say hose ends, are you talking about the hose that is on the side of the rad cap? If so this is just expanding coolant due to heat and you need a catch tank so it can drawn back in when it cools. If you don't have a catch tank the expanded coolant gets replaced with air which could cause your over heating.

One thing I found is the impeller on the water pump, some have a cheap folded metal one which isn't very good, go for a cast impeller pump.

I believe the viscous part of the pump is for the fan and can be removed if you have an electric fan.

The main hose end that I was talking about (original post) was the top rad 50mm hose and the bottom one (I think)  that was a surprise because I would have expected it to have raised the rad cap thermostat spring and come out of the overflow first. I have fitted a new cap anyway, but obviously yet to be tested. Got to order a water pump and debating which type to order as I have no need of the viscous bit.

After reassembly, if it comes out of the overflow I will look at fitting an expansion tank. The previous owner did use the car, so if that was the problem I would have expected it to have been sorted - his brother ran the local BMW garage and they did the work necessary, e.g. servicing and fitting windscreen washers etc. Also, it didn't overheat on quite a long test drive, but it has sat for a while.

It may yet prove to be a combination of issues, e.g rad cap and faulty electric fan thermostatic switch. On my old Triumphs I used spend ages trying to solve one problem only to find out it was 2 - it's all beginning to come back to me now!!! Oh the joy

On 8/11/2023 at 4:25 PM, Foz said:

As far as I can remember (old age is a wonderful thing ................. what was I on about ????) oh yes, I'm pretty sure both types of pumps are the same block side. 

Can you drop the bottom hose off the radiator and then pour water through the rad ?  If it only dribbles out of the bottom your rad's blocked.  With no thermostat in there you can probably also pour water down the top hose and see how quick it comes out of the bottom hose to get an idea of the flow through the block.

Very sensible suggestions, I will certainty try both before I reassembly. Should have done that routinely. I am a little rusty re car maintenance, since my Triumph car days.

Ford 2.0l Pinto 1990.

Only just got around to having a look at this problem, too much else happening! Guess what? No thermostat in there, so I guess the suggests a more longer term problem - the guy a bought it from told me definitely no overheating issues!

I pretty sure the rad is fine as it looks like new. I have a new rad cap, but to be fair they both 'feel' the same spring resistance. The electric fan was working fine so I presume not the problem - although I will double check that still is blowing/sucking in the right direction. About to remove the water pump to have a look and probably replace that. I suggestions for the best place to get a new one and any other suggestions for the reason for overheating?

Additional: I now have the water pump out, nothing obvious wrong, but I will be ordering a new one. The pump is a viscous one (with no fan attached) Does any one know, are the viscous and none viscous pumps the same engine block fitting (Burton Power pictures look very similar) and is anyone running both normal fixed and electric and if so has it helped or is it pointless if the electric is working?

Where are you seeing that as everywhere I look notifications are set to be emailed?

Thanks, this mirrors my thinking and is probably the easiest fix so definitely what I am hoping

Just seen this. Still not receiving any notifications - any suggestions on how to correct this?

Overheating Issue 2.0l Pinto – your thoughts please.  Last year it seemed to running too hot and consequently the electric fan came on early and stayed on for ages, never boiled over though. Most of the time I got bored waiting and disconnected then reconnected a terminal to stop it.. I haven’t yet completely ruled out a faulty control thermostat and have another one ready when I can work out the wiring (it has 2 terminals instead of 1).

This year, I have only just got round to getting the car ready to drive (I know, don’ ask!) and after leaving it idling, it overheated with water coming out of the hose ends, so the radiator cap might be wrong or has failed, so I will routinely replace that, and I will as soon as I can find a small; one of the right pressure that fits - any suggestions for sourcing one? 

Tried it again yesterday and it seems to get to temperature too quickly and the rapidly starts to move to overheating without the electric fan coming on unless overridden. 

I am thinking failed engine thermostat or possibly failed water pump, all of the jobs so far are easy jobs and relatively cheap, but before I start taking things apart, I believe that I have read about air blockage being a problem (I don’t have header tank), with these engines, so any advice on checking for this first? 
 

41 minutes ago, Roger said:

Hi,

  I am looking for the colour of the blue paint on my 1989 RH, I've read a few threads, and there seems to be an element of guesswork and confusion out there. Can anyone help??

RG 

Get in scanned it may have faded anyway.

8 hours ago, Duncan Gafanha said:

So, sorry to resurrect this thread again guys, but.....

I'm concerned about the change to ST170 engine from a 1300 in my Mk2 Escort estate, and wondered if it might be wise to try and get it MOTd first, and then register the engine change afterwards. Will the inspector reject it for having the wrong engine, or merely test it as normal?

Looking on various forums and checking registration numbers of pictured vehicles, it appears that a number of people are actually running classic fords with MOTs that are still registered with the original lower capacity engine, so that suggests that it is possible. I'm intending to get mine correctly registered (don't want to risk driving it around with the wrong engine and having the insurance company play up) when it's finished, but I just want to try and make it as painless as possible.

That is more or less my concern. It should be easy to make the change provided you can evidence the change. The DVLA website gives details, which I believe means evidenced by an engineer's report or on the garage's headed paper. My problem is that, although everyone seems to know that a 205 block is a 2 litre no-one is prepared to say so "officially'. I don't want to open a can of worms. However, I have insured it correctly.

Thanks Ian. I am going to change the electric fan regulator, is everyone with Ian at 90 degrees Celsius for a 2 litre Pinto engines?

On the last few times I have been for a run the fan has remained running for a long time afterwards. Obviously, when the engine is hot I would expect that, but after waiting for a long time and then checking that the temperature has dropped. The fan still continues to run. If I then disconnect it and then reconnect it, it remains off. It just seems that it is not turning off correctly when the temperature drops. Has anyone else had this problem? Do I just to replace the fan thermostat, and if so, does  anyone know where to get one and what it needs to be - I assume the come in different temperature ranges? I cannot see the make of fan. The car is a Ford 2 litre powered RH 2B.

Interesting and curious. For a 2B? Any piccies? How much? 

No I think it is good tip. I want one that works and looks tidy.

Thanks, if I can find some at a reasonable price I will buy some and do it. At the moment, with what I have found so far, it would cost more that the actual shower cap!

11 hours ago, nelmo said:

I think you may be over-estimating an insurance companies 'due diligence'. If you haven't been able to work out if it is a 2 litre or not, do you think an insurance company is going to spend time on it? 

A friend of my sons bought an old Golf GTi, added bigger wheels and a huge wing as well as had it chipped and de-catted and whacked a sports exhaust on it (kids these days, hey?) . The inevitable happened, he had an accident. They wrote the car off immediately based just on the claim form and after a few backwards and forwards haggling, they gave him the amount of money he bought the car for (although he lost a fortune on all the mods) - I don't think they even personally went to look at the car and they could have used any one of those mods to invalidate his policy. But because the amount to settle was so little (£3k), they didn't even try. 

So I wouldn't stress over it myself... 

You are, of course, almost certainly right, but it depends whether it is worth the 1%(?) chance of being saddled with an accident bill. Insurance companies will wriggle out of paying if they can and the higher the payout the more chance they will look more carefully. For me it shouldn't really matter as I have insured it as a 2l, and for the A-Plan specialist insurance that I took out the engine size made no difference to the cost anyway.

Thanks for trying. The car is post 2001 and I am paying the higher rate and I don't think that that would change.

What you don't want to do is insure it as a 1600cc have an accident and for the insurance not to pay out because it is a 2000.

If I ever have to have the head off the measurements would prove the engine, but I am rather hoping that wont be necessary.  I am sure that somewhere are records that confirm the 20 and 205 block are 2.0l. I just need to find them!

Further general information. My mystery manufacturer has quoted me £100 plus £8.95 P & P to make one to my measurements. I will let you know what happens when I have more information and if I order, how good it turns out.

16 hours ago, Jonty Wild said:

Great tip

Any suggestions for where to obtain the clear polycarbonate sheets?

On 7/30/2022 at 4:52 PM, Bob Tucker said:

I got a sail maker to help with my surrey top. His top tip is to mock it up using sections made of clear plastic sheet ducktaped together so you can see fitting locations etc underneath. It made it much easier to get an accurate mockup.

Great tip

niduncan Yep that is pretty much exactly want I want - If only I had a sowing machine - and could use it!  What is it like on the sides?

Generally I am pleased with my car, apart from some B*****d has scratched front wheel arch already! I swear that it wasn't while I was in the car.

Richy66, that look very interesting. I assume that is is a top that you can drive with. I have a soft top hood, albeit that I have no idea how to fit it yet (hoping to see a few cars with fittings soon!).  What I wanting is something I can put over it when parked on a day out, so that I don't have to run back to it at the first sign of rain! I have looked at cheap half hoods/caps (e.g. Halfords and similar on eBay etc.) but they are difficult to size for a 2B, will be a very poor fit and most seem to have terrible reviews.

I am waiting on pone company who has responded (not SoftBits, who haven't), but I have found another company who say they will make me one, so I am busy measuring up for one. However, I think that I will take my measurements and mock one up to allow them to be tweaked' before I order. When I know more I will post again - it may be sometime!