baj25

Thanks Steve, yours is indeed a very neat job. I have a heater and quite a bit of other gubbins over the transmission tunnel so I can’t support off there unfortunately. Probably 25x25x3 angle to pick up scuttle side of hinge, ends cut and bent down to sloping tubes as you call them. This can support new fixing for wiper motor as well, mounted vertically rather than horizontally as before. Did you have to put much stiffening steel under moving part of bonnet i.e. where new hinges are? I’m still thinking I’ll need rubber sealing strip between firewall and scuttle, as I plan on making scuttle removable, yours looks metal to metal and more permanent. Cheers, Bri

I'd be up for it if date was right. Had some great days out on boats. My tackle might be a bit light for wrecking but it does sound good. Keep us informed of plans. I've tried to organise trips from work but it is hard to get a 'good' tide on convenient days. Bri

I’ve cut bonnet now and am weighing up how to support hinges, re-make and seal bulkhead etc. I’ve got a few ideas but would welcome any tips/ suggestions from those that have already been down this path. Car is 2B BTW. Pics would be interesting, I’ve seen many of the finished article but not the hidden parts. TIA, Bri

Bonnet locating pins as suggested by Nicko, that's what I'm after. As Mitch says, I'm going fixed scuttle. I cut the bonnet last night... I had in mind these things to use where the 2 lower parts of the bonnet come together to keep the panels in line when bonnet is closed. BRAINWAVE !!! Just realised I've got some similar things that were used as floor spikes on floor standing speakers, M6 threaded and all. I was saving them in case I ever needed to make some medieval weaponry. Great result, thanks all, bri

I’ve seen tapered stubby pins, maybe 15mm diameter, used to locate panels on a few cars and might have an application for some, but I don’t know what to search for. The tapered pin is fixed to one panel, and there is a mating hole in the panel that faces it- there is no fixing to hold the 2 together, they just stop lateral movement. Any ideas please, bri

+Rolling road time to set up? Bri

Many thanks to Mitch for organising. It was a grand night, really enjoyed it. Bri & Jo

Many thanks for replies gents. Re fuel supply, I was thinking of using pinto pump to feed swirl pot to feed HP pump- would that work? I fitted a return line so that is no prob. Thanks for the offer of the parts Steve, be funny to re-acquaint them with the pinto! I’d pretty much convinced myself that standard injection was more straightforward route, and was aware of issue with hotter cams and standard ECU, but I thought MS could solve that. More research needed on that point. Head is injection already, so no worry there. I fancy supercharging as well, I’ll PM Timbo separately for advice, I’ve been reading up on that for a while but couldn't see how to fit under 2B bonnet! Ta again, Bri

A couple of nights ago I was right in front of goal and got a beautiful pass past the goalie perfectly onto my right foot. I gave it such a kick as to rip the back of the net out. And then I woke up on the bedroom floor, having bounced off various items of furniture on the way, feeling like I’d caught Mike Tyson on a bad day, and Mrs J looking over the side of the bed wondering what the hell happened ! (and me looking up thinking the same). I’m not the world’s biggest football fan, but in my 51 years I’ve never had a dream so vivid. Note to self, less cheese before bed. Bri

Like many before me I’m thinking of injecting my pinto and would like thoughts on wisdom/options etc of doing so. Pinto currently has DGAV, FR32 cam, electronic ignition with dizzy and did 118bhp at the wheels on RR (with loose spark plug and knackered HT lead!). I’m not after more top end, just more throttle response. If I do convert I’m looking at megasquirt. So, is a standard injection set up controlled by MS a reasonable starting point? Will I get what I’m after using this or if not, what is better? TIA, Bri

Another pic above. Steve had swapped his 2B for a Tiger that day . Another big thanks to Steve for all he did, and to all the others for making it such a good week. 1400 miles for us and only a wobbly CB antenna to cause a problem. Bri

Intatrim odysseys are a popular fitment, very narrow and low to floor. Bri

Yeah Steve, the trapezoid shape is what is shown on the instructions, but what I can't find on the lens. I'll have some gaffer tape with me so I will just have a look at what others do I think. Cheers, Bri

I had a look at my headlights trying to work out where to put beam benders. The instructions show various features of the lens to align them to but mine don't have any such features! They are standard sealed beam units as supplied with 2B 2005ish. Any tips? Cheers, Bri

After intensive use on the journey home from Tatton Park yesterday (journey from hell), my wipers decided to go squiffy. They have worked fine for 6 years and luckily it happened just as I came off the M6. They still go back and forth like wipers do, but instead of starting horizontal, they now start at about 45 degrees, as though the park position has moved. Nothing obviously changed when given a quick shufty today. Both wipers are the same so I guess problem is in motor/gearbox. Before I start stripping down, any thoughts? IIRC, they are mini 2 speed 110 deg type. TIA, Bri

I thought you were going to mention the 'F' word, so glad hens are alright. Bloody low nicking someones produce. Hope the barstards choke on them. Bri

I'm looking to make a surrey top. Something quick and easy to fit to stop seats/carpet getting wet when parked in work car park, or when driving when weather is showery. Quite a few people have made them, so I'm looking to learn from their experience. Any tips Gents, things you would do differently next time etc? Pics would be useful. TIA, Brian

Thanks for comments gents. The industrial magnet and reed I'm using will pick up about an inch range, much easier to set up than the bike ones. Doing electrics for a living, I get a, er, significant discount on them ;-) Did a quick experiment yesterday. Taped a magnet to the chuck of my battery drill and wired up a simple circuit with spare reed to a DVM with Hz input- reed worked fine up to 20Hz, which was max speed of drill (1200 rpm). Connected reed directly to lidl bike puter and it worked great up to indicated 60mph (calibrated for pickup on drive shaft) and then threw wobbler. Conclusion- lidl bike puters won't work on kit cars (unless you have really big wheels...). Bri

I just fitted a lidl cycle computer. I changed the reed sensor for a good spec industrial one and also put a good magnet on to operate the reed. I've fitted it on the driveshaft side of the diff, so one pulse per rev of the wheel, well within spec of the reed frequency. But the damn thing throws a wobbler somewhere around 50mph! Googling indicates that some of the cateringvan boys have experimented with different bike computers as some were found to be no good at higher frequency, but no mention of lidl ones. Anyone successfully used a lidl puter? or had similar trouble? or got any ideas? my thoughts were to ground the screen of the cable, not sure what else to try. Bri

I always keep a few of the industrial throw away ear plugs in the car. Often I only have them in my right ear, as Mitch said, noisier on the right (with pinto). Tootling around I don’t bother, long runs especially on motorway I use them under a helmet. When I last did hearing test in work, I got the standard list of questions- have you ridden a motorbike, have you gone to rock concerts, have you ever done shooting, do you go to motorsport events, have you ever played in a band- ticked every one, but luckily hearing still OK and want to keep it that way! Bri

I used sign writers plastic, scrounged from a kindly supplier in work. 5mm thick, light as a feather, easily worked. Used the same for boot lid as well, great stuff. HTH, Bri

I just found the westfield drawing while searching for something else. If you PM me your email mail address, I'll send it so you can see if it is any use. Bri

Steve, me and Jo are up for this. Sounds great, thanks. Bri

If you aren't confident of wiring, get an ordinary MCB used in household consumer unit (10A should do) . Wire it between battery positive and battery + connector. If you have any shorts, it should operate before your loom or switch burns out. Have a go at drawing out what you've got- helps you see the wood for the trees. And makes future fault finding easier. I downloaded one from a westfield site that is a good starter, most cars are similar. HTH, Bri

I tried to get tickets for the Carfest South event this morning. I went to the North event last year and had a great time, but unfortunately MrsJ has already booked hols that clash with this year’s North event at Oulton park. Obviously the website was very busy, but selected tickets, entered all required details, clicked ‘buy now’, and got a message saying ‘postcode you have entered is not valid for this presale, please enter a valid postcode’. Postcode was defo entered correctly, so all I can assume is that they don’t want Northerners there. If they said in T&Cs that you had to leave whippets at home and no flat caps to be worn, I’d have no problem with that. If there is postcode discrimination, it is out of order. I have emailed them to request reason, but too late now as tickets all gone, and me left rather angry indeed. Thanks for putting up with rant, Bri