Dcsinclair22

Ok so indicators, why would they constantly flash when even when the stalk is in neutral position, if I switch stalk left or right it makes no difference, it's almost like the stalk indicator wires are getting a constant 12v supply and not breaking of when the switch is not being used

I think I've found the correct pinout for these stalks so if anyone needs the correct pins for a mk5 escort stalk then here it is

Right I'm at my witts end now, don't suppose anyone has a diagram for this type of stalk, I'm 99%sure I have it correct but I can't get the indicators to work, so I have Pin L4 (power to stalk) Pin L6 (earth) Pin L3 and L2 (main beam low beam) Pin L1 (side lights) Pin L11 should be right indicator Pin L5 should be left indicator or vice versa, There's no part numbers on the stalks but I've worked out that it's from either a mk5 escort or fiesta I think, but can't seem to find the pinouts listed anywhere

So update for today, I officially thought I had all headlights, Brake lights etc done, ticked off the list, finished, every single light circuit is on a relay, only sidelights are leds and they will be controlled by a switch on the dash once it's all done, car now starts from the key instead of the big red start button, great I'll pack the crimp tool and connectors away and move onto fitting the new carpet, but before I do that I'll get the misses to just stand at the back of the car and double check lights, so rear lights come on with high beam, low beam, sidelights, great all good. Let me just double check the rear lights stay on if I switch my high beam onto constant full (stalk pused forward with lights on) front works perfect but the rear lights go out, but they don't go out if I pull the lever as if I was flashing to signal someone, racking my brains I could not find a solution, I tried running 2 separate cables from the rear, 1 for high beam 1 for low beam, but then because I had affectively created one big circuit I had high beam, low beam, rear lights all on and the flasher didn't work, so back to the drawing board, going to try a holdover relay setup in the morning

Cheers Richy I'll take another look tomorrow if I haven't set fire to the thing before hand, I have tried unscrewing it previously but it feels like I'm going to snap the lever, but for the minute the wiring is slowly killing me

Hi guys, had a quick search on the forum but couldn't seem to find anything so thought I'd ask, how do I remove the gear knob on the type 9 box? I've tried twisting, pulling, looking for screws and can't seem to get it of, at the moment it has a massive silver bullet type knob but I've bought a smaller one to go on

Thanks mate, yeah that's the plan for today I think, the car starts and runs absolutely fine now but didn't have my multi meter with me yesterday so couldn't check the battery voltage whilst running,

I have no idea why it's mounted like this, previous owner did it, I was considering buying a new rad and mounting it the correct way but upon further inspection this rad has a bit more surface area than the one at cbs so maybe that's why it's mounted like this,

Picture of rad for reference

Yeah honestly it's sideways and ive just realised that me stating SIDEWAYS could mean mounted along the side of the car, what i actualy mean by sideways is turned 90° what's even stranger is.... it works, and apparently a few others have fitted the rad sideways too, my rad is fitted pushing air through the rad put the front of the car, same as on my motorhome and on my 23plate vitara, just wondered how everyone else's was and if there was any benefits to fitting the other way

Hi guys, currently my radiator is mounted sideways (remember having the sideways mounted rad conversation last year) but is it best to have the electric fan blowing from engine side out through the rad towards the front of the car or mount the fan on front of the rad blowing air through the rad into engine bay? At the moment mine is fitted blowing out from engine bay through rad toward front of the car, but recently seen a few builds with the rad blowing from front to back and just wondered if there's any advantage to this?

Thank you very much for your detailed response, you are correct in the respect that the big lead from the alternator does run round to the starter, then up to the battery but (and here's where it gets a bit strange to me) the 3 other cables run round by the starter, then 1 thin cable runs through the fire wall (I assume this is the ignition warning light (never had one but must have run somewhere) but the other 2 cables 1 quite thick and one thin runs to the starter and connects to starter via a ring connector then come from the starter through the firewall too, where the thinner of the 2 went to a gauge and the thicker of the 2 splits about 10 different ways, so can I just cut the thicker wire down and run it to the positive on the new fuse box or can I do away with it completely?

Thanks Ian, upon futher inspection the alternator wires are labelled (not including the big thick wire that goes to starter motor) so the 3 cables are b+ b+ and d+, all 3 originally ran to the positive on the starter motor then came of the positive and into the fire wall

I'm hoping I don't need to take the big wire of but I'll definitely be sure to disconnect the battery first if I do so thanks for that. Just need to figure out the 3 other wires, then I'm pretty much ready for a little test drive, then I'm considering repainting the whole car but that's a thread for another day

Ok so got some pictures of the alternator, albeit upside down and back to front pictures but I'm hoping someone can confirm, seems to be 3 wires coming from the 3 pin plug and 1 thick wire from the bottom nut, so do I just run the thicker of the 3 wires to the battery, 1 to a light on the dash (never has a light before unless it was somehow wired to one of the clock lights maybe?) and one to the positive post on the new fuse box? Or should 2 go to the battery?

Yeah I'm back at the car tomorrow so I'll grab some pictures of the alternator, the location of the alternator seems strange to me aswell, right on the bottom drivers side where the rad pip goes straight thru the centre of the belt, so to change the belt I need to drain the coolant

Or the coil was linked to fuel pump switch, can't quite remember but pretty sure that's all irrelevant

That's great thanks Ian, ive been reading through some alternator threads, I'll need to confirm what alternator I have (was bought brand new last year just before I got the car) as I don't have a light on the dash or behind the dash, not sure if it matters but my ignition key only acts as a steering lock, turning the key does absolutely nothing except engage lock, the car Is turned on by a silly little red key that cuts power to the positive from the battery, then I have a 4 switch 1 button panel on the dash, looks like something from top gun, so to start the car, it was turn red key (passenger side footwell) flip up a red rocker cover, flick swith up (sent power to fuel pump, push the start button ( sent power to coil and starter) and the car started, then one switch turned the lights on, another switch controlled the fan, so on, the only thing that was controlled by the stalk was indicators, (now have all lights working from stalk so it's slow progress at the moment

Also another question regarding alternator, when I stripped the alternator wiring out, the was a brown wire from the alternator running through the firewall and splitting of in about 10 different directions, when it comes to re wiring, can I just run a positive from the alternator to the new fuse box positive to send power to my whole fusebox when the engine is running or should I just leave it with the wire running to the battery and charging the battery and all my fuse box power running from the battery?

Hi all, as some of you may remember, back end of last year I decided to tackle the mammoth task of the wiring (more like a group of 100 spiders had been let lose under the bonnet) but anyway due to several reasons (mainly health problems) I put the project on the back burner, but I am back at it and once more require a little advice so here goes........ whoever wired the car up clearly either had a death wish or just didn't have a clue, I had live wires going to thin air, limited use of relays, stalks that didn't work, everything was controlled by those little toggle switches and were just hardwired direct (I think hence why the fuel pump kept blowing) talking of fuel pump to put into context how messed up the wiring was, once I stripped most of the wires out and had nothing connected, If I put a live feed direct to the high beam wire on the left headlight, the fuel pump would run, that was the final straw, lost my temper and in a fit of rage, ripped the whole loom out and completely started again, now this I'd where I could do with a small bit of advice, there was no starter relay for the starter motor and no relay for the alternator (not sure if the alternator requires a relay) but I'm about 97.679% positive the starter motor should have a relay, so my question is, what amp relay and will a standard 5 pin 40amp work or will I require a bigger 100amp 2 rod type relay, bearing in mind the starter has the solenoid built in. Anyway sorry for the long read but thought if give an insight into what I've been up to, here's some before pictures, I'll stick up some after pictures here once I've finished

How is everyone on here getting great quality photos on their profiles, I have tried many times but have to re size so many times the final picture looks like something from the early 1900s

I'm far down in eastbourne but would be up for a little meet up (providing my cars ready that is)

Perfect thanks guys, was a bit concerned the bloke I got it from was telling porkies but it seems I am wrong

Thanks Alan, strange as when I check the details on the gov website is a robin hood br I'm kind of hoping the number of keepers is from the doner car too as the guy I got it from reckons it was a family friends car who sadly passed away, he said the guy built it himself