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Dcsinclair22

RHOCaR Member
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Everything posted by Dcsinclair22

  1. How is everyone on here getting great quality photos on their profiles, I have tried many times but have to re size so many times the final picture looks like something from the early 1900s
  2. I'm far down in eastbourne but would be up for a little meet up (providing my cars ready that is)
  3. Perfect thanks guys, was a bit concerned the bloke I got it from was telling porkies but it seems I am wrong
  4. Thanks Alan, strange as when I check the details on the gov website is a robin hood br I'm kind of hoping the number of keepers is from the doner car too as the guy I got it from reckons it was a family friends car who sadly passed away, he said the guy built it himself
  5. Hi guys, got my rh in Sept last year, today after a long wait I finally recieved my v5, dvla can be a pain, but my question is, on the front it has previous owners 11 is that 11 owners since its been a kit car or is that 11 owners including the doner? 2nd question, it states the date it passed the iva, then has emmisions readings next to the date, is that normal? Also all it says is robin hood, no model or anything except sports car under vehicle type,
  6. That's exactly what I've read, but I can't seem to keep the thing running with anything below a 25amp fuse, it's a strange one, brand new pump, it's running twin webbers. But there's no earth which I found a bit strange too
  7. Hi guys my car runs a facet fuel pump, (cylinder type) when I got the car the pump was brand new, but since owning the car the fuse kept blowing every couple of miles, ive currently got the car in bits (completely stripped) and all wiring ripped out, so what gauge wire are you guys using and what size fuse, the car would stay running with a 25amp inline fuse, anything lower and it would just blow, I'm sure I've asked on here before but can't find the post for some reason, also is it right that the fuel pump isn't earthed? I'm sure someone on here mentioned it should be a 5amp fuse, so im guessing it's the gauge wire,
  8. Nice, I have a dji phantom 4k drone (old one but works great) and the misses does 3d printing, she's got a fdm and a resin printer, they are great fun,
  9. Some nice vehicles listed above, always good to know other people hobbies/money pits alongside their kit cars
  10. Interested to find out other people's passions/ other vehicles (love or hate them) ill start, ive got the robin hood, just got rid of my ducati hypermotard 1100 evo, got a kawasaki z750, a 23 plate suzuki vitara, a 2001 reg peugeot 6 Berth motorhome (which I'm selling to upgrade), love my bikes but not getting any younger, the motorhome has been great and we've just refurbished the inside, the robin hood is currently completely stripped out down to bare shell, and the z750 currently is sitting in the same garage as my robin hood needing brakes sorting
  11. It's cool, picked it up today (was not fun at all) but for anyone wondering, it does fit in a low loader, just make sure you take a trolley jack to jack it up over the wheel arches in the van, I am considering purchasing a car transporter truck though, I'm forever buying, cars, bikes moving cars etc so I think it will pay for itself.
  12. Hi guys, looking at a kit car project for my son, it's a rolling chassis at the moment, it's 58 miles away from me and I don't have a trailer, I have tried to rent a transporter but the hire place only has 1 for hire and its currently On long term hire, do you guys think I could roll it into a luton low loader, the thing that worries me is the wheel arches in the low loader might be in the way, ive seen online that the locost fits into a luton with a tail lift, but the tail lift luton doesn't have the arches like a low loader
  13. Yeah I'm surprised there's been no takers, have you got any pictures, my son is looking for a little project, (he's doing mechanics in collage so this could potentially help him massively)
  14. Well bang goes that idea the.
  15. So sitting at home bored out my skull, weather's terrible, so has got me thinking, ive always had pretty fast cars, subarus, 2 rs4s, 1s3, ,1 s6,, I love a v8 motor, I have seen people fitting the rover v8 engines without too much of a struggle (not that I'm saying the swap is a piece of cake) but it isn't impossible, so here I am scrolling through evilbay and I'm wondering if it's possible to fit a chevy small block in the robin hood........ I know anythings possible with unlimited funds, but you can get a small block chevy v8 with heads, headers and some ancillaries for 3.5-4k, obviously would then need ignition and fueling solutions bur size wise do you reckon it would squeeze in
  16. No problem mate, it's posted in this group
  17. Not sure where in the country you are Craig, but there's a guy on Facebook selling a complete set of gauges with dash for £50 I'll see if I can dig the add out
  18. Cost you money that's very true, I drove out there the other day, amazing how much money you can spend in such a small shop lol, so much stuff there
  19. Cheers guys, I've given up, everything is up and running but the wiring looks rubbish, ive got a whole new loom ordered so I'll just start the whole thing again, the diagrams above will come in handy though so thank you
  20. Sorted, it is literally the positive wire to a live feed and the negative to the clocks, god only knows why there was a black wire from the negative to the chassis,
  21. OK so unsure if this is any use but just been looking through my box of spares and have came across 3 electronic modules, 3 spare distributors and a box that the new ignition was in, its a H&H ignition (not sure if there any good) but in the instructions it does say requires 12v NON ballasted ignition from the wiring loom to the positive side of the ht coil
  22. Not sure this makes a difference but here's a pic of my dizzy, reading online some dizzy don't require a module (apparently)
  23. Excuse the rubbish pic, but as you look at it the - is on the left and + on the right, the - run down into the loom the to the chassis where all the earth's are and the + run into the firewall, I'll send another pic of what I was battling at the time I disconnected everything (and again this is how the car was delivered) I just wanted to tidy it up
  24. Thanks for that, so here's what I've got, (and it was not wired by me, this was all the previous owners doing) the green wire goes to the - on the coil, black to + on the Coil, the ignition barrel on the car is only connected to the loom via the yellow and red wires, the blue/black and the other wire isn't connected, the ignition barrel is literally used for the steering lock, so to start the car it has a dead man switch, I turn that, then flick the 1st toggle switch which activates the fuel pump, then press the start button, but the wiring was a complete mess and I'm honestly not the most patient of people, I started off well by disconnecting each wire and labelling, but must have lost my way a bit, I cut all the wires labelling each wire 1-1 2-2 and so on, but the ends of the ignition coil wires were pretty burned up (ignition side not near the coil itself) I I decided to run 2 new wires, there is and from what I can tell never has been a control module or anything like that, I'm 97.5% sure it just had 1 wire to the bottom of the start button (going to the + on top of the coil) and the - on the coil run into a bunch of about 7 black wires that went to the chassis, I'll see if I have any more pictures
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