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RedTrev

RHOCaR Member
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Posts posted by RedTrev

  1. Remember, it may be your wife, girlfriend, daughter, etc., who is in need of the support of a midwife!!

     

    Yes, are you likely to be in Coventry around the 8th November??? :D My girlfriend's first one (my second)

     

    ....Signed up.... :good:

     

    Trev

  2. Unfotunately "'er indoors" want DIY on new house done.

     

    I know the feeling Pete.... I've got a kitchen and two bedrooms "work in progress", then, of course, there's the lawns that need mowing, guttering need clearing...etc etc. I managed to fit two bolts to the car tonight :yahoo:

  3. It's true, for a full EPAS system it's not just a case of bolting on some bits. My recollection of the EPAS on MGF is that it's "relatively" simple (no CAN) but still requires a torque sensor on the column. It takes hard wired road speed and engine speed signals that would have to match the calibration of the ECU which then controls the amount of assistance delivered by the motor (as speed increases the assistance reduces).

    Quite a complex task to take on for sure.

    Another consideration is the load on the vehicle's electrical system, particularly at lower speeds whilst turning. The MG one isn't too bad (fed by a 40A slow-blow fuse) but the early Mini ones (hybrid electro hydraulic?) certainly pulled some juice!

  4. Mike,

    You could also consider an electric alternative if packaging is a problem. Some vehicles use an electric PAS pump. Others, MGF for example, use a totally electric system where the steering column includes an electric motor for assistance. Not 100% sure but think the Corsa has something similar :unsure:

     

    HTH

    Trev

  5. I fitted Philips H4's to my old Rover. They had a pale blue tint to the glass (I think they were called Clear Blue or something ....or is that the pregnancy tests?... anyway...) the difference was hardly noticable apart from the amount of reflection from road signs, number plates and rear reflectors, which, IMO, was greatly improved. I'd fit them again just for that benefit. B)

     

    Trev

  6. Sounds interesting, so it got me surfing...

     

    Maybe it's "Highwaymen".

     

    Here's a review from ropeofsilicon.com...

     

    "Caviezel (The Passion of the Christ, Frequency) is Rennie Cray, a man hell-bent on avenging his wife’s death by a murderous driver. James Fargo (Colm Feore) is the chilling killer whose body has been reduced to a combination of human parts, prosthetics, straps and harnesses. Creative retrofits have transformed his 1972 Cadillac into an extension of his own body, a killing machine that he uses to torture and taunt unsuspecting motorists on the highways of America......"

     

    :unknw:

  7. what about LDV?

     

    LDV are owned by Gaz (Russian). I work at LTI (London Taxis), we are the largest volume British owned vehicle manufacturer since the demise of MG Rover (where I used to work!). We make approx. 60 vehicles per week... sad innit? :(

  8. Gary,

    Good sound advice from Dan, I should do your best to follow it.

    I would add , however, that although Dan is correct, the wires from the ignition switch are white, they are directly from the ignition switch and are not fused until you get to the 4 way fuse box that is fitted to the VG harness. The wires you need to pick up for the relay coil (terminal 85) are green, as these are "after" the fuse and offer protection to the wires.

     

    More mud?

     

    Trev

  9. Yes, I will post the results no problem.

    When you get to the stage of doing your fuse blow tests
    (don't hold your breath :lol: )

     

    I have already made some mods to the harness w.r.t. circuit design.

    Off the top of my head, the main ones regarding fusing were, briefly:

     

    1) additional fuses (in-cab) to split the loads. There are only 4 originally on the VG and one, for sure, had quite a few loads hanging off it.

    2) increase the number of earth points. Some circuits have earth wires running from the back all the way to the front of the car. I've added an earth point in the centre console/facia area, for example, and this has reduced the length of several earth wires.

    3) added fuses underbonnet to protect the wiring coming from the battery e.g. to the ignition switch. (Yes, the big beefy ones that have more smoke in 'em).

     

    If anyone wants more detail, let me know, and I'll have a look when I get home.

     

    Trev

  10. job's a goodun :) ... or is it? :(

    ......are you brave enough to short the two wires together at the bulb end to see if the fuse blows? :unsure:

     

    Short the wires together, select reverse and switch on the ignition.

     

    Good result, the fuse blows.

    Bad result, the wiring burns out!

     

    Remember this short-circuit could happen at any time you are driving the car... you'd like to be sure the fuse would blow.... wouldn't you? :unsure:

     

    In this case I would expect no problems, but it's worth bearing this in mind with every circuit on the car.

     

    Food for thought... ;)

     

    Trev

  11. Hi Grizzly,

    Mine has a VG harness and the thinnest wire I see is 0.5mm (csa) thin-wall spec. This has a continuous rating at 20'C of 11A. It should be fine with a 5 amp fuse. An important factor with selecting a fuse, however, is whether it blows in the event of a short-circuit. A typical automotive blade fuse (ATO fuse or Mini-fuse) will blow in less than 0.5 seconds if the short-circuit current is 3.5x the fuse rating. With 0.5mm wire over a relatively short length (no wires on the VG harness are relatively long) you should be safe. I haven't completed my build yet but intend to do a full fuse-blow test on all fuses to ensure they blow in sufficient time during short-circuit conditions. This way you know your wiring isn't going to burn out!!

     

    Trev

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