Knock-on

Does anyone know what the regs are for a seatbelt being threaded through a seat are?

The holes in mine are a bit narrower than the welded mounts on the car.

As it is, one is nicely lined up but one is slightly out of alignment.

Should I angle it off and try rewelding it which may look a bit of a bodge with my welding or do they not have to line perfectly up?

The bearded one on Fifth gear said it was Tiff Needell on Monday night??

There's been a few different ones. Pretty sure Matt Neal done a couple and you can't mistake that Lanky bugger. How he gets in a Touring car is beyond me.

It's long been suspected that Ben was the Stig but I would be surprised if he let it slip. Great advertising for TG though

Signed.

 

It makes me laugh you know. People living near a racing circuit and complaining about the noise!!

 

We have a similar problem here in Ramsgate with Kent International Airport (formerly RAF Manston). All the time the RAF were flying night circuits, (nice and quiet Vulcans, Phantoms, Lightnings etc ), there were no complaints. But since the airport has been sold to a private company, there are a whole plethora of complaints about noise, emissions etc, (some of them are well founded - don't get me wrong), but the majority of the complaints seem to be from people who have moved into the area for a quiet retirement by the seaside and bought a house under or near the flightpath!

 

The bloody seagulls during the breeding season make more noise, for longer, but there are no complaints about them, damn sh***hawks, can't get my beauty sleep during the summer!!!

 

Al

Speak for yourself.

I remember as a kid those bloody gliders coming over the Manston Caravan Park at about 50ft. You could hear every word the instructer was saying to the young ATC lads.

However, there is a nasty worm going around at the moment called confiker so make sure your OS and Virus updates are up to date.

As a general rule. If you send on chain letters, jokes or warnings to people, it's good practice to remove the sending history and forward as BCC to try and avoid ending on spam lists.

http://www.moneysavingexpert.com/

Go on the forum as there's lots of helpful people.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ford-RS-Turbo-Engine...%3A1|240%3A1318

There's only 5 hours left but if anyones interested in a cheap motor.

LOL thanks alot, as this will be my 1st build your already giving me ideas! 3.9 v8??? was that in a zero kit?

do you know if there is a limmit of engine the zero can take?

 

@Bazwaz: do you have any pictures of this 3.9 monster?

 

Boots

There's an optimum but not a limit.

I heard a whisper that MK engineering are putting together a kit with a V10 Viper engine for some idiot. You could never use a fraction of the power and it would handle like a slug.

Stealing a Pinto sump is easy.

You just need a Balaclava, socket set.....

(I'll get my coat )

Definitely an old farts car. I'm 60 years old and always keep to the speed limits. They are there for the benefit of all. Often to be seen racing through the countryside at 40 mph with a couple of fellow hoodies chasing after me trying to keep in touch.

 

Young people are in too much of a hurry these days. My motto is if 30 mph is safe then 25 is safer.

 

Nigel

25mph. Hooligan!!

Well done although I don't think that exhaust bracket is SVA compliant

Give us a clue lads---Is this kit ---too old ----too expensive ---too much of a challenge---polite helpful replies only please.

I don't think the age is a worry although obviously a lot of bits may need replacing or rebuilding including the engine.

I think the price is wayyyy off though. I picked up a part built with almost all the parts for just over a grand a couple of years ago and as has been said, we're not in the most optimistic financial climate

Should be a good track car. Wonder how it compares to a lot of the other cars you can get for the £9000......

I saw it earlier today and nearly choked.

£9k is being a little optimistic I think. About £3k optimistic

Yep, the law according to Sod strikes again.

Couple of quick questions.

What build photo's does everyone recommend are taken and what if i don't have all receipts / proof of disposal of the donor vehicle etc as I purchased mine as a part built?

Cheers

Is there any minimum standard a car needs to be in to be SVA'd?

If I can get something that is 95% complete, can I get a nice long failure list and fix those over the next 6 months or will they refuse to test it?

Hi folks

 

I aim to have my 2b sva'd before the change to IVA in April, therefore i'm on the lookout for a full set of weather gear that someone may have gathering dust to allow me to enjoy the lovely Spring weather that we are sure to have (i.e. rain, sleet and snow here in 'sunny' Scotland ).

 

Its a long shot i know, but thought i'd give it a go before i shelled out the full wonga on a new set from GBS.

 

Thanks for reading this post and a Merry Christmas & a Guid New Year to all.

 

Cheers

 

Graham

Set on ebay for about £100 less than retail at the moment. Just search Robin Hood Kit Car.

We are struggling along down here in wales, with temps as low as 8 degrees.

Slab of Kendal Mint Cake strapped to a St Bernard and pointed in the direction of the M4. Just try and hold on until Snorbitz gets there!!

We are just about holding out in deepest darkest Surrey. Ventured outside but beaten back by the withering sunlight and high temperatures.

Anyone got any sunblock?

My initial budget is £2000 but I expect to spend closer to £3000 once its finished and going off for SVA.

 

OK so it seems that the general consensus is that a part build is a good way of getting a kit at a fraction of the price it would be new.

I would echo what everyone else has said.

I have had a part built for a couple of years and in that time, have had to take most things back to basics.

Just finishing off the last structural bits and bobs now but still have a lot to do.

Rule of thumbs I discovered.

1. If someone tells you it's 95% built and just needs a good weekend to get it ready for SVA, offer to pay them £100 for a weekends work to finish it. If not, assume it's 5% completed and needs 95% of reverse engineering.

2. If someone tells you that all the bits are there to complete it and it looks pretty much together, budget for another £500 for rivets, seals, bolts, plate etc.

3. Enjoy it. It's great fun but lobbing one together over the winter may be a little optimistic. I'm looking at 3 years from getting mine to have it through the SVA and that doesn't seem too bad. Some Hoddie builders have been known to go through a marriage or two before completing their project.

Good luck. There's plenty of knowledgeable people on here that have a wealth of building experience (of which I am certainly not one )

KO

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Robin-Hood-2-Litre-8...A1%7C240%3A1318

Hi Mart

You seem to have accidentially put a reserve on?

Good luck.

Have you got the build DVD's or video's if so watch then through (I know a lot of it is a joke but still worth it). If not then try to get hold of them. I do have a set of videos (2002) which you can borrow but it would be much easier if you could borrow a set of DVD's

As for the rear arches, that was the way Richard suggested they were fitted then a length of coax was stuck over the joint.

I thought for the SVA, it needed full tadpole rubber. Doesn't matter, I have some now so an easy job.

I have got some DVD's somewhere but can't find them. Mind you, watching them delicatly enlarge a hole with the aid of a club hammer might have encouraged me no to look too hard and rely on the advice on here for the few bits I needed

Will try and find them again at the weekend.

No the side panel does not get bent under the chassis but is fixed to the floor out board of the chassis (the chassis cannot be seen from under the car). The floor which should be attached to the underside of the chassis should stick out from the chassis by about an inch on each side and this is where the side panel is attached to

You'll have to forgive me Chris but I'm doing a lot of reverse engineering on this car as I bought it pre-bodged and am finding things may not have been constructed as they should have been.

At the moment, I have 3 components.

1. The side sheet

2. The floor sheet

3. The Chassis tubular frame.

The section in question is from the front wheel to the rear wheel as illustrated in the above pictures.

At the moment, the 2 panels are affixed for about half the distance from the front wheel back. There they part company and a increasing gap appears until the pannels finish by the rear wheel arch. They are approximatly 1" apart at the rear.

Fortunately, I have had to remove the rear arches as the previous incumbent neglected to put tadpole rubber between the arch and side panel so if I have to take off the sides and rebend, I can.

Do I need to do this?

Has anyoneone got a spare Aray wheel knocking around?

I have a spare Alloy but if I can get a reasonable cost spare, would like to keep the set the same.

Cheers

Haven't received mine yet but only rejoined a couple of weeks ago so probably last on the list for dispatch

So, the outside panel is bent under the tubular steel back on itself and affixed to the floor sheet? That's what I was planning but was going to nut and bolt it rather than rivet it for strength.

As for the angle iron, was going to run that further along the plate to get 2 bolts in it at the end although with the front one, was just going to drill through the chassis and bolt a M12 straight through.

Hi Chaps

Can someone post me a couple of piccies of the underside edge of the car by the mounting plate for the seat / rear axle.

Basically, I just want to see how people have fixed off the side pannels and seat supports to the frame.

Cheers.

KO