Knock-on

I went to buy the book off Amazon, its £44 used which seems a bit sharp Does anyone have a basic drawing breakdown diagram. I'm looking at Snowys link as well but if anyones drawn out a loom with required relays, wire gauge, fuse strength etc then it's going to make my life a lot easier

Araldited mine to the prop by the gear lever and no problems. Made up a bracket for the sensor and attached it to the gearstick housing.

That's interesting Bob. Well, seeing as mine are black and will stay black, it wont matter too much What are your thoughts on spraying the bare cloth where they Vinyl has lifted? Do you think it will cover it OK or can you put multiple applications over it?

I was looking for a couple of replacement seats but after a bit of investigation, it might be easier to refurbish mine. Basically, I have a couple of vinyl bucket seats that look a bit tired and have worn through to the fabric base in places. There are vinyl sprays out there which cover vinyl to refurbish them but I don't think they will cover / repair the threadbare areas. Then we have spray on Vinyl covers for putting a wrap type cover over surfaces but will these be suitable for seats. So, has anyone done this? Any recommendations?

Seat covers will look a bit saggy and I have a very good upholsterer just up the road which I will have a chat with. However, there are vinyl sprays you can get which spray on. Im trying to find out if there is one that will put a vinyl cover over the threadbare areas or if they're just vinyl paints? Anyone used them?

So, looks like they were Robin Hood upgrades from the original kit. That makes it a bit harder. I have 2 but they are looking a bit sorry for themselves. The vinal has worn on some edges showing the material behind. I know nothing about upholstery but is there anything that can be done to rescue these ones?

Thanks for the offer and photo Dino but they're not the ones I'm looking for. Hope the Missus isn't too disappointed I should clarify that I'm looking for the standard 1 piece bucket seats. They are covered in a plastic / pvc covering that I suppose is meant to look like leather? Anyone got a pair knocking about?

Hi chaps Here's a few pics. Let me know if you require anything else. http://s88.photobucket.com/user/knock-on/library/Hood?sort=3&page=1

Ahh, thanks mate. That makes sense.

Hi chaps Just going to tag this onto the bottom of here rather than start a new topic. Just doing a bit of head scratching on the Alternator wiring and a little undecided on 2 points. 1, I have a similar 3 block connector as above with 2 larger pins on Brown wires, one thicker and the other thinner will be going straight to the Battery. I have a 3rd wire coming out which is Brown and Yellow which is going to the ignition lamp. I have a separate spade connection on the alternator am am thinking that this is for the ignition switch? Is this correct? 2. I read above that Alan suggests putting an inline fuse on the Battery Return leads? I'm pretty sure there wasn't one before. Is this necessary? I'm not running an Earth to the alternator as it's running directly off a metal mount from the engine block. I have taken a picture of the alternator if it's needed but cant upload it here.

Im looking for a pair of the seats supplied for the 2B on their standard build. If anyone has a pair, let me know,

Go on Al, ask her for a Hood as well. We love a bit of senseless violence

And I love V8's

Not too sorry Dan (no offence intended ) Putting a V8 in this will be like putting Mike Tyson with, well, em, just about any woman!!! This is a screaming Chassis that was lightened, strengthened and developed using the fundamental principles of the first S7's. Developed by a F1 engineer to be a racing version of the 2B, it needs a screamer, not a growler! Please, whoever gets her, mate her with something elegant......

In Korea at the moment Dave but should get down to Dunsfold some time next week so will take some then.

That's what I was worried about chaps. Oh well, out with my sewing kit.

Its the base chassis in lightweight SS tubing so no wishbones. Have a word with Richard and he might still have the jig or put your own choice on. I would suggest that this is more a project for a 2nd time around builder as it's more bespoke and less boil in the bag. Someone that wants to create their ultimate Hood.

I had a twin webber on my old chester Pinto but was still getting 25. 10mpg, even if you're pumping it in by hand, seems a bit desperate.

Genuinly surprised nobodies interested in this????? Is there any reason why otherwise I'll build the blooming thing myself and flog it? Cracking chassis!!!! Anyone that wants the space of a 2B that handles similar to a Zero.

Sounds like youre back to front on wires my friend. Sure it's all the same both ends?

Ali tape is super cheap. About a fiver for 50m x 50mm from a building supplier. Is great for heat reflection too

Pretty sure there's two pairs that should be shielded but my EDIS diagram's at home and I'm on a plane so can't check Bit of overkill never hurt anyway.

Sorry, should have said the stripped copper wire is the Earth tail from the EDIS.

Just double checking before I do a silly! I'm going to shield the relevant EDIS wires and plan on doing the following: 1. Get relevant wires and make sure fully insulated with either standard coating or heat shrink across solders. Wrap a double layer of self adhesive Ali tape with a stripped thin copper wire between the two layers. Wrap single layer of insulation tape over the lot. That should do the job shouldn't it?

Does anyone have a Surrey Hood they want to offload or know of a manufacturer.