Longboarder

When is it and where the 4ell is Dettling.

Nigel

Try any Kit car or Classic car show for pancake filters. Bear in mind that they give poor performance and you are better off fitting a thin Pipercross, ITG or other foam type. Try your local serious car tuning shop which will be cheaper than buying from Europa or Demon Thieves.

Nigel

Yes. Get down to the scrappy and get a mini unit.

Nigel

If you are going for SVA you presumably have some nut covers (other than a jock strap) from someone like Namrick. Cut a track rod sized hole in two covers and thread them on to cover the locking nuts. Check over the body of the track rod end and smooth it out either by filing sharp edges or with filler paste till flush with the nut cover, to eliminate any non-compliant radii and paint. Profesional looking, permanent and a pass. Make sure you can slide the nut cover along the track rod to access the locknut for adjustment.

Nigel

My wings have done three years held on by two bolts into captive locknuts in each stay. The front of the wing is in line with a line drawn verticaly from the frontmost edge of the wheel rim. They are very stable and solid into three figure speeds. (At least I mean I think they would be if I was ever silly enough to exceed 70 in this country which of course I don't, etc, blah blah.....)

Nigel

Hey Jim, why have you changed your avatar to a picture of a 10year old boy wearing a false beard? I think we should be told!

Nigel

Strange. I vaguely remember a noise like this before I started my build but I haven't heard it in ages. It sort of cured itself when I got divorced about two years ago but I kind of miss it in a spooky sort of way.

Nigel

Wot. A snapping sound followed by clanging as the valves destroy themselves and then an eery silence, broken after a short pause by the sobbing of the owner? Ouch!

Nigel

I did have the idea to modify the sierra cowl with some filler to reduce the curvatures and them cover it in stick-on pretend carbonfibre film. Should look neat if I can get it to stretch and stick in the concave bits.

Nigel

Bedford Rascal runners are about 3/4inch tall!

Nigel

I know that this may be a bit of a bumm3r but there are reports around that say that LRP is not much use either and even mixing different brands of LRP can give problems as they are not all based on the same chemicals. Unleaded plus one of the proven additives does work. You can even get one with an octane booster so you can run that high compression head. If you can find it go to a garage that is supplied by Bayford Thrust to buy real unleaded (www.leadedpetrol.co.uk) every few tankfulls and that will give your valve seats grand protection. But I still say fit an injection head and forget the whole problem!

Nigel.

The Classic car mags which have a readership seriously interested in the unleaded problem give all these tin pellet jobs the thumbs down. In a test run for Practical Classics magazine no manufacturer would agree to submit samples and allow publishing of uncensored results of their products. There are a number of liquid additives which can be used with unleaded containing, I think, either sodium or potassium which have a proven track record but surely the easiest thing is to find a fuel injected head in the scrappy and fit that.

Nigel

I don't know if there is an SVA rule to cover having two sets of front indicators, one set in compliance meaning the other set doesn't have to be! I thought that the whole point of using m/cycle indicators was to do away with the wing mounted ones as that is what many prefer. I suggest you fit the type you prefer and if its m/c ones then read the suggestions of how to extend them on this board at Fittings and Bodywork.

Nigel

Thats 400mm which pretty much means if they are mounted on the nosecone they need long, long stalks.

Nigel

Still sounds like a fueling problem. Had something similar once when driving in the rain. could keep it going on the accelerator pump but water in the float chamber was messing up the running. Suggest a clear inline filter just before the carb so you can see what fuel flow is doing and tighten all fuel line jubilee clips.

Nigel

Mine still falls out at regular intervals and leaks oil. Must get it sorted!

Nigel

Ditto, and then took the tube out as soon as it had passed and mounted them direct onto the nosecone so they looked nice.

Nigel

I'm vaguely remember putting Thixogel on my hair in the old days when the world was in black and white. Sort of like brylcreme but clear. So cool!

Nigel

Just as well seeing as it doesn't apply on pintos! Must read the instros next time and at least I can get out there and reset my gaps today and see if it makes it quieter or faster. Probably neither.

Nigel

Probably a good plan to put all the other head bolts back in and torque them up so the one nackered bolt is under less strain. Then you might be able to use a cold chisel to cut a screwdriver slot in it and use an impact driver.

Nigel

In the unimaginable land of money didn't matter I would get on with restoring my Triumph GT6 Mk2 and make better double wishbone rear suspenders with plunge CVJ's and have a real good think about a better 6 cylinder engine and box.

No seriously? I'd build a Robin Hood not because its the best car out there but its the best bunch to be with. (Fancy having to line up with all the prats in westies). No realy they're OK, one of my friends is a westie owner but you can't tell em apart! Hoi.

Nigel

d:-) Andy, the Haynes manual says inlets 0.20 , exhausts 0.25 both plus or minus 0.03 so you could set to 0.17 and 0.22 and still be OK if you're accurate. Measure between the rocker pad and cam lobe and if you use Go-No-Go feelers it is easier to be accurate. I use rule of nine to make sure I'm adjusting the correct rocker; when 1 is fully down adjust 8 (1+8=9) and mark each adjusted rocker with chalk. Closing up the gaps makes them quieter but there needs to be a gap to allow for heat expansion of the various bits when running to avoid the possibility that a valve can't close fully and burns out.

You can't compensate for cam lobe tip wear and if you can feel it or see it on your cam its time to get a new one. Spray bars are cheap. Fit new if changing the cam or if you love your engine. Try running the engine with the cam cover off with old, cleaned old and new spraybars. No contest!

Nigel

Doh! Just woke from a tappety nightmare at 2.30 a.m. realising that because the valves go inlet-exhaust/inlet-exhaust /inlet-exhaust/inlet-exhaust the rule of nine does not apply and I've been doing it all wrong for three years on my engine. (still strangely runs great and not noisy). The Haynes manual gives the obvious method of looking at the cam lobes and adjusting each in turn when its own cam lobe is pointing verticaly upwards, i.e. that valve is fully closed. Hands up anyone else brought up on A series engines and using rule of nine on a pinto. Sorry Andy, for the bum advice!

d:-( Nigel

Looks good, bit XP but OK for all that (still using 98). However I hate change, remember last time and all the buttons and tabs look very daunting for computer illiterates like me. Having said that no doubt a couple of weeks and even I will be using it OK. Will be fun to see Jim and Simon down as newbies for a few weeks.