Peter Bell

Rosemary, I live in Bedford and visit Dunstable most weekends. send me a PM and I will pop around to visit if you like next time. Peter. p.s. Will be there this wednesday eve as well!

Just reminded me, I had twin GPs on an Enfield Constellation, they made a lovely howl at certain revs. Peter

Does it work with Westfield, Caterhams, RS Jigtech, Rizla? OOps Peter.

I have cap head Allen screws on mine, there is not a lot of room for a hex head bolt and a spanner or socket! Peter

I think we need something like a SORN to send out with the renewal form/last mag of the year so that at least people who can bother could send it back so you know they will not be rejoining. Perhaps it could be called SLOC, Sorry Leaving Owners Club? I think that 2 months is about the max for an oversight in sending money in. Peter

And the one in front is the Toyota!

I used a jig saw to cut the holes from the inside, IT IS VERY NOISY! mark it out with masking tape. Be careful about positioning, too far back and they will clash with the pedal box. On that side anyway, (sorry this is a monocoque I am thinking of) Peter

Tak, for the DGAV you will need the early manifold also as the flange fixings are different. Have you tried the locost builders site they sell lots of bits too? Have you blown out the fuel and airways of the carb as there may just be dirt in there blocking the idle circuit. Peter.

If the idle jet was blocked this could happen, why not take out the jets and clean them? Or possibly better just get a Weber? Peter

Jim I think you have forgotten that some cars were Zintec bodies not stainless and were just painted. I suppose the other option is Gav may have an early car with space frame chassis. Has it got a solid rear axle Gav? Peter

There is usually a 5mm thick heat proof spacer under the carb, taking this out will help as well. Peter

I don't know where you are Mathew, but I have a block in my garage if you want to collect, bores are fine, not sure of the bearings though. Peter.

What are you on Longboader?? are you ok?

Zim, have you checked that you have voltage at the bulb? if so it must be an earth problem, or bulb, if no volts have you checked the fuses? I think the cortina may have had a fuse for each side. Peter.

and this! I don't think that changing this set up will gain very much apart from slowing down the build, it is simple, fairly light weight and you dont have to clean your springs! There is only very slight camber change during suspension movement. Regards Peter

another picture

This is the MK1 S7 suspension, which it sounds as though you may have, with the ford front cross member, track arm, and RH top wishbones. (I hadn't realised how rusty it has got through the winter salt, and me a softy southerner Jim!) This set up works fine, I haven't heard of anyone changing this apart from fitting softer springs, the originals are much too stiff and tie bars which you can see in the pictures. There are plenty of threads about tie bars.

Sorry Dale can't help but intrigued. I am often in Dunstable in mine, usually Sundays though. Haven't seen another around there. Peter.

Dead Engines Aren't Fun Peter D O H C

Just a thought Steve, have you got a lot of negative camber on the front? this could have an effect on the steering, try 1° max. Peter

Chaps the problem may be although you have the same gearbox and wheel size as the Crapi you haven't got the same axle! check out the diff ratios. I had a spread sheet on the old site you could download and put in the variables to get speed from engine revs. I can post it on if you can't find it. Peter

Sound too high to me Lindsay, it depends also where the switch is fitted. Mine is in the bottom of the rad and switches on at around 75° and I don't have problems. I used to have an 85° one but sometimes it seemed as it was too late by the time the fan switched in. My Local Radiator man advised that the returning water temp shouldn't really be any higher than 80° Peter

Hi Richard is it possible to post a picture of your front suspension so we know which model you have? As it is still being built (how much more is there to do?) there will be a few people on this site who will be able to advise how to get an earlier model through the SVA Peter

Owen the diaphragm is the one for the acceleration pump, if you get a leak there it should mean less fuel getting into the manifold. If there is lots of fuel getting in I would check that the float needle valve is shutting off. I think your other problem may just be the tappets as Jim says. Peter

Jest ye not, my local Autoglass used to cut screens to suit, I assume they still do. I had one for a Citroen Dyane cut and fitted while I waited. Peter