Peter Bell

I had the warping disc problem on a Sierra with vented discs, it got worse really quickly. They distort inwards where the vents are, hard to measure but new discs sorted it completely.

It will be even better with tie bars rather than the anti roll bar!

Peter

Had to use the space saver on my car the other day, it is yellowy cream colour. My hood has 185 tyres on the front and 205 on the back, the spare is a 205 and has never been questioned when MOTd (7 times?).

Peter.

Peter and co. you need to release the handbrake adjuster mechanism as well otherwise you will not get the drums off. Instructions are in the haynes book, I have the smaller 1600 rear drums which are a bit of a pig to release, Xray specs are an advantage, I think the bigger ones are easier to do. Although one of mine did have an additional problem for some reason of being such a tight fit on the centre bearing boss/spigot I had to use a puller to get it off then file it out a little to give it some clearance.

Good luck, Peter

Hi Anthony, I changed to softer springs on my S7 mk 1 and it has improved things no end. I wrote a piece for the mag it was in the summer edition last year, I think could email it to you if you want. The original red springs are 180 lb/in assuming you have the standard RHE set up, which are not standard shockers and springs at all. Bump steer will not be improved by softer springs, it will be worse as the suspension will move more. It is a fault of the geometry causing a steering input as the suspension moves up and down. Although it may seem better if you are not crashing and bouncing from one pothole to the next.

Peter

There is a thread somewhere of some suggested early RHE projects, but I can't find it so hear is my picture from the family album of where the idea of the sliding pillar suspension came from, it must have been a french holiday.

Peter

Well done Gordon but I understand from colleagues who live in the fine city of Aberdeen that it is either raining, about to rain or covered in sea fog there so I hope you live a bit inland to enjoy your hard work!

Peter

Kev, good luck but fitting the Sierra brake bias thingy will not make any difference on a rolling road. It is inertia operated and works on a ball continuing to move forwards as the car slows down. I had posted a picture on the old web site showing the insides. There is a way of making it work all the time though if you mounted it pointing downwards I suppose but not sure if you could get it to bleed fully. The better way is to use a modifed mini one which is shown on one of Dave Andrews downloadz on the old site.

Peter

In that case Ben you will only need the feed. Some carbs have a return outlet which has a restrictor in it so that the fuel pressure is maintained at the needle valve, excess fuel returns to the tank but it is not necessary. It may be worth fitting a return line though while you can in case you later fit a different carb or even injection when a return line is required.

Peter.

Hi Boggie, I think you will have a few problems to overcome, as stated the compression ratio will need to be lowered to compensate for the much improved cylinder filling, the pumping volume of this one will be for a larger capacity engine so it will have to run slower than designed to stop it literally blowing the engine up and the cam overlap will need thinking about to stop lots of the charge going straight out of the exhaust. Interesting project though, if you have lots of time!

Peter.

Paul, the injection 2l Sierras (manual gbox) had a 3.92 diff so you may be a bit further out than you think I am afraid .

Peter.

Hi Chris, in my experience identifying a cam is very tri cky, some have coloured markings but not always, and just looking at them doesn't mean much. Kent RL cams are pretty wild things which must be a pain to drive on the road. There is good info in Dave Andrews site on pinto cams, look on the old? RHOCAR site under downloads. To replace the cam is straight forward and with luck you may be able to do it with the head in place, it will involve cutting a hole in the bulkhead as the cam comes out of the back of the engine for some strange idea. If you have some major fixtures in the way of the cam the head will have to be removed, it may be a good idea anyway to examine the valves etc. Just follow the haynes manual and make sure you have marked the position of the jackshaft pulley, (the one that drives the distributor) before you take the belt off. It is also a good idea to fit new followers at the same time as the cam.

Regards Peter

When my daughter saw the cover of the new mag she was disgusted and I agree, nothing to do with the young lady but the MISSING Zs!! pleaze bring them back. Come on chapz I don't mind changez but there iz a limit. After all theze yearz surely they are a fixture, letz start a petition! We want our Zdz!

Peter. :angry:

Alan try to get a Weber DGAV 32/36 which was fitted to the 2l cortina, capri and early 2l sierra. You may need the manifold as well if your engine was a late one, check the carb fixing centers.

Peter

This thread is like a chinese whisper how has it got here? I guess the answer to the bike engine is fairly complicated but although it has a high bhp figure it will be at high revs with a very narrow power band, also it will have a low torque output which is fine for a light bike with lots of gears. But it won't do 100,000 abused miles without even taking the head off!

Peter.

What do you have to do to get a spare as well as 4 seems to be the max, or do you get a can of tyre weld instead?

Peter

John, I have 140 mains, 50 idles with the screws almost right in and not sure about the air possibly 185. I have a 285 and flowed head. These settings are about the best I can get fiddling about but a rolling road would be best.

Peter

Could it be 2 Bees?, 2b or is that a bit complicated?

Peter (non Avator) so far

They have a letter or series of letters stamped on the head next to no. 4 plug. R, L, P, I think but sometimes it is very feint. If it is an injection head then it will have hardened seats. There is a lot about this on the old web discussionz, look on there as well.

Peter

A very kind Hoodie on this site sent me one last month for the cost of postage. But at the show there was a stand GMS spares who had new ones for £25 a pair, I nearly bought them but his no. is 01913771718 seems a great source of all sorts of stuff 24 hr. mail order.

Peter.

In my experience the VV was pretty dreadful. In the end I swapped it on my 1.6 mk V cortina for a DGAV and all was well.

Peter

Not so much as a poltergeist more to do with age I suspect! Be careful with any lubricants other than brake fluid used on brake seals. The rubbers used which are resistant to brake fluid are not resistant to mineral oils and will swell up and go soft. This doesn't (or didn't) apply to Citroen though as they used mineral oils in their braking system.

Peter.

Pete, does that mean the police know what pressure tyres we should be running even if nobody else does? I run about 18 front and 22 rears which is fine for me.

Peter

I had the same problem on my series 1 and used a thin bead of silicon sealant, but I expect the Comma stuff will work and not show.

Peter

Re. the springs, if you have the inboard shocker/spring arrangement the original springs were usually red in colour and about 180lb/in rating. You may find it marked on the end of the spring but to see it the spring needs to be removed. I have gone down to 120lb/in springs which used to be black in the catalogue but when I bought them last year from RHE they were red as well, a new supplier apparently. The car is much better with the softer springs, some people go lower I would think 100 would be the minimum. Concerning the rad, you could fit it in the nose which helps but I found an improvement to be fitting on extra louvre in the bonnet (exhaust) side to let the hot air out.

Peter.