Thrashed

This months meet is this Sunday.

Weather is looking good. Sunshine is forecast.

There is always a variaty of car, bikes and vehicles to be seen.

Facebooked link - https://www.facebook.com/events/504718629879089/

Event held at this address - 26 Dunlop Road, Hunt End Industrial Estate, Redditch B97 5XP

Cheers

Steve

Great run out. Bit damp to start with but cleared up and had a lovely sunset drive home from Chatsworth House.

Steve, take your waterproofs.... Have you drpilled holes in those seats yet?

Not yet. Winter project!

Got the waterproof ready just in case for tomorrow, but my run out to the petrol station was in t-shirt and shorts, it was warm!!

Awesome. Is it best to put an in line fuse to that wire as a precaution? Cheers

I know a good solicitor!

Hi wire the battery sence wire to main battery wire on starter motor

Thanks Blue. Have you done his successfully yourself? Does the alternator need the Ecu to control the power output?

Cheers

Steve

Cheers Mark.

Yes, lots of the Toyota stuff works that way, but i have only found USA info on the 2.3 duratec and that seems to suggest that the alternator has some sort of internal regulator that needs controlling. Now i am not using a 2.3 and i dont know if the USA stuff is different to Euro cars?

The Toyota set up looks straight forward enough and like you say references direct from the battery.

Might pop down my local friendly alternator shop and see what they say.

Thanks for the help.

Hi all

Part of my engine swap for the winter project involves trying to keep the original alternator as it is small and out of the way.

The engine is a Ford Fiesta ST150, Duratec.

The plug is a `type 4' as per the attached. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1AVOcD7mszDG3TRVOuV3H4SNfaQZg_vds

Now, the IG 12v live and the warning light are OK, but the Signal output is my query.

Is this needed to make the alternator work? from what i have googled it just checks the batteries state of charge and then adjusts the output. Is this correct?

So, how would this be wired in on a kit car, or is it ecu controlled and has to be left out? What are the potential issues of leaving this unconnected?

If anyone is able to help that would be great.

Cheers

Steve

I'm in. My skin is waterproof!

For those who have their car on the road still.

Weather i meant to be good for the weekend too.

https://www.facebook.com/events/417525048755915/

I have a set of Sparco karting gloves bit like the Mechanix style. They are fine in all but the very cold weather. They have suede palms and have great grip on the wheel.

Max advance seems to be 35 degs at 3400 so in the right ball park.

Thanks for the offer of the modules swap but tricky with the distance.

if you get really stuck i can post them to you. Good luck getting it sorted. I spent a fair while and `gave up' and just swapped out parts.

I have a working and non working black box. If you want to borrow them to check yours is working you are more than welcome.

I had the same issue on Stealth black box. Never got it running right caused misfires and other random issues. Swapped out for a powerspark set up with built in module and matching coil and never has issues.

No worries. Was good little meet. Mad variety of cars from minis to pre war stuff and a few boy racers too.

Pub was open and so was the cafe. Let you know when the next one is on

I don't think you can ever say 'this guy was the best' - just too many factors involved (ability of the car, quality of rivals etc, etc).

 

Personally, I think the whole F1 grid are as good as each other and it's just down to the cars. Put Hamilton in a Williams right now and let's see how well he does

 

I'm afraid I'm not a great fan of car racing - if you want decent racing, watch MotoGP, that's proper, edge-of-the-seat stuff. This is an example of one of the best race endings EVER (and the best commentary team IMO):

 

Agreed. That was an awesome race.

The boss of the micro pub is expecting 3 car clubs mg & RS owners plus about 40 cars for the car show. He's going to put on bacon sandwiches!!!

Should be a nice day out and the times are reasonable too.

Unit 23 Tardebigge Court, Redditch, Worcestershire, B97 6QW

https://www.facebook.com/events/724389337895690/

No worries. If you are doing the duratec conversion you will need the gearbox of a mk3 mx5.

I am interested in the one with the gearstick. Are these 5 speed boxes? Can't make it out but which side is the starter motor on these (my pinto is on the passenger side).

Hi, yes they are both the 5 speed from a mk1-2 MX5. Not sure on the starter set up on an MX5.

Hi All

I have 2 x Mazda MX5 NA/ NB M526 gearboxes. One has a gearstick, one doesn't.

Bought to mock up an install. Bought as working but never run, so can not verify. They all seem OK, with no play in input or output shafts.

Hi all

Mazda MX5 1.8 flywheel, pressure plate and release bearing.

The Steering Wheel is 10 inches wide by 9 inches high guys.

Thanks Dave but mine is already that size and I need the next size up.

Thanks

Steve

Cars are racking up billions of miles without bits falling off everywhere and they don't use anything more sophisticated then spring washers, Nyloc nuts or patch bolts.

 

Tells you everything you need to know.

Agree with that. Might switch mine to spring washers, Just looked at the prices of the Nord Lock washers

Wow, they look awesome. I spanner check all my nuts and bolts twice a year and all are nylok nuts. Without fail i will always find a lose nut somewhere! I don't mean hanging off but lose enough to feel by hand. Have always thought about locite or some back up method, but these would be ace.