ozz

Be careful using standard wheel whilst building firstly they wont fit the front without fouling the wheel arch supports second on the back they wont give an accurate idea about where to fix the rear arches.

One way round both problems would be 20mm spacers to take the offset down from 35 to the required 15 but you would then need to fit longer studs which would then need to be changed for the proper wheels later.

The above account is what I did and i'm not happy with my rear arches and stud changing is a pain. If I was doing it again I'd get the proper wheels on in the first place.

I have a set of wheels on the back garden but I'm nowhere near Kent I've now sold the spacers.

Ozz

I would say you also need some sort of bracket to stop carbs moving

I've been thinking this too but can't work out how do you have a picture I can copy?

Andrew

They look to be the same carbs as mine - Kawasaki ZX6R .

You've got practically everything but...

I cant see a throttle cable - a push bike brake cable one will do nicely.

I've got two cable adjusters one at the carb end and one at pedal end.

Also a return spring at the carb end (on the motorbike there are two cables a pull and a push)

A second cable for a choke will be needed so another bike brake cable or mod you existing choke.

I have a solderless nipple connecting the cable to the choke slider.

Quick trip to Halfords bicycle department and you'll be sorted.

The two black pipes at the top are the breathers, I have a pipe to connect the two on mine but i don't think not having one will be an issue just vent to air.

On the bike the breather goes to the air box via the pipe in the back plate near to the TPS at the back of the of the carbs this hole is blanked off by the ally back plate for the filter you have there.

Manifold bolts will need to be shorter due to the reduced thickness of the manifold (well mine did because I went from injection)

Fitting is really easy just watch the silicone hose connectors don't pop off.

That's the basics for fitting once fitted they'll need balancing and once you can do that you can come and do mine!!!!!!

If you get really stuck I could come over

Ozz

I Fitted a small denso alternator, mounted on a custom bracket higher than original mounting point good photos on zoom zoom's blog new belt will be needed.

Hi,

Same problems here too (or so I thought).

With the accelerator I put a bend in to get it as far over as possible then set the pedal lower than the brake pedal with the cable adjuster.

In driving mode i rest the outside of my foot on the side panel and slide down onto the accel pedal.

Similar arrangement with the clutch with bends etc.

No resting place for left foot causes some pain but I can often rest left foot under the pedal as my car only seems to need 5th gear.

Pre getting it on the road I thought I would never be able to drive it with the pedal arrangement but it is surprisingly easy.

Ozz

Hi,

When the time comes to apply for the IVA you will complete a amateur build declaration found here

http://www.www.businesslink.gov.uk%2FTransport_files%2F119_IVA_Amateur_Built_Declaration1010.doc&ei=C4HPUM7uObDM0AXe0YH4Dg&usg=AFQjCNHRJr2DRn3dDIlncSpqkB_lXoPzNQ&bvm=bv.1355325884,d.d2k

There is an option to declare that you bought a part built kit etc.(Section 1.4)

And You make this declaration to the best of your knowledge and belief.

Since no one else (other than you) can be made liable for a false declaration no one else other than an applicant for a test has to make any declaration at all.

You do not need to show that the vehicle was built by an amateur from start to finish.

You only need to show that a substantial part, of the construction, assembly or modification was carried out by you (an amateur and the relevant individual) or by you and one or more other relevant individuals acting on your behalf and under your direction.

So you family and friends can also help too.

The authority for this comes from The Road Vehicles (Approval) Regulations 2009 S6 (1) b ) http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2009/717/contents/made

This is where section 2 of the declaration comes in to show the substantial parts that you have fitted the chassis/body. (see section 2 of the Declaration)

It sounds like you might be (re)-fitting or updating most of these items.

Take some photos of you in your garage with tools in hand admiring the bits you are fitting to support your declaration.

(Sorry about the law in this post)

Good luck

Ozz (reading the instructions again!) (so you don't have to ) (unless you want to)

Got home now and it didn't rain on me.

Had some great fun scaring the old folks and brother and nephew.

Don't think i'll ever live it down at home (she's still laughing at me now.)

Now I know that I didn't fix that fuel gauge as I stand at the side of the A617 waiting for the Mrs to arrive with the fuel can.

First nice day since registration been out showing off car and learning. It is surprisingly easy to drive needs a few more tweaks.

Going to take it to South Normanton tomorrow if weather holds for the Dad test.

hi ozz, congratulations.

 

do you have any pics of the engine bay you could put up as i am currently changing out a 1600 to a 2L pinto in a zero and having clearance issues. would be good to see another build.

 

 

again congrates hope to see you at the shows next year.

 

 

regards

 

keith

I have taken some photos tonight hope you can work out the sides.

I appear either by accident or design to have "toed in" the bottom mounts.

http://s1133.photobucket.com/albums/m582/andrewosborne27/engine%20mounts/

Just out of interest, when GBS took it for the IVA did they not check it over first? I thought they would have and might have picked up on the speedo reading wrong.

They gave it a very thorough check over in my presence and agreed a list of work to be completed, but sadly no road test with a gps device to test the speedo; which was my fault as when they asked the question about the instruments I said unmodified, same size wheels and same diff as doner. With these answers there would be no need to "callibrate"" the speedo.

So two incompetencies on my part firstly putting the needles back wrong (I made same mistake on rev counter, fuel gauge and temp gauge too and secondly forgetting that I had done so.)

After an initial fail on speedometer under reading it passed at re test and got I the plates today.

I have done a budget build using as much of the sierra as possible including the sierra clocks but had put the needles back in the wrong position.

So I now have an age related F plate GBS zero 2.0 pinto (ex efi) now on zx6r carbs.

I could not have done this without this club and the wealth of knowledge and ideas freely given.

GBS have also been brilliant. I am spoiled by living so close and being able to pop in to look at cars and talk to the guys.

GBS took my car for IVA but the most valuable IVA advice came from Simon at the open day.

Anyone still building should go to an open day and listen to one of Simon's talks worth their weight in gold.

Finally I just want to thank 2 members who without ever meeting me or talking to me have got me to this point (I doing a Gwyneth here) I'll just say bears and gnome.

Hope to see you at the shows and a merry xmas

I'm very interested in this topic having passed the IVA earlier this month and waiting for registration with a car with no date of manufacture on the manufacturers plate fitted to the car when it passed.

So using the skills from the day job I have read the IVA manual, (and updated the link in the IVA section).

I'm now happy that my plate with only the VIN number completed has correctly passed the IVA test.

Please see the manual section 18

18.6. All plate(s) must be indelibly marked with the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) which matches the number marked into the vehicle structure and is displayed in the correct order. (See below and notes 1,

2 & 5).

VOSA MOTOR INC Name of manufacturer

e1*2007/46*0291*02 Approval No. and/or Build Stage No.

3GPG918009BS51312 Vehicle Identification Number

1500 kg Maximum permitted laden mass of vehicle

2500 kg Maximum permitted laden mass for the

combination where the vehicle is used for

towing

1 – 730 kg Maximum permitted laden road mass for

2 – 810 kg each axle, listed in order from front to rear

"Note 2: Maximum permitted laden masses are not required to be

displayed but if present should be listed in the order as shown in RS6"

Date of manufacture is not mentioned.

IVA MI Inspection Manual (Version 8.02) Date: 05/10/2012

http://www.dft.gov.u...tion Manual.pdf

Well loaded up the kit this morning its off to GBS for Iva and registration. Thanks to all on here for advice and build blogs. See you at stoneleigh.

we've got it so hard. I've just been nosying round a workmates brand new landy. The chequer plate is srewed on with countersunk phillips screws and one screw has gone in at 45 deg leaving a contactable sharp edge. Type approved - no iva - no ball - no problems

could be the temperature sender on the head

they say on the haynes roadster forum that the 19mm axminster handy reamer is the right tool to open up the sierra uprights to take the maxi ball joint. I've not done it myself but have the reamer and it is a very useful tool and cost 4 pounds. Search for axminster tools.

Ozz

I have now hit a problem with illumination. The switch with the above set up does not illuminate until the side lights are switched on. This project is one for after iva now.

Ozz

what are the 'symptons' of your bike carbs over fuelling your Pinto cos ive got bike carbs on mine and ive recently posted a couple of threads about my smoky pinto thinking i am burning oil but i have wondered whether i have an over fuelling issue. my engine has been re bored with new pistons and rings, valves and seals etc, but is blowing blueish smoke out the exhaust at about 3000 revs

ive had some good advice in response to my topics and it could well be oil thats getting past the valve seals but want to consider all options.

Thanks

Ian

 

Also ive had Gulf Tec 10w40 semi synthetic oil from Home Bargains for £8.99 for 4L. They still sell it cos ive seen some in Loughborough this week, dont know its 'pedigree' but might be worth a try.

My symptoms as follows :-

First attempt start with the bike carbs fuel was coming out of the breather (zx6r carbs) I tracked this to a sticking float in two of the carbs. No start.

Once cleaned carbs - It started with black smoke from exhaust and I noticed the very thin oil smelling of petrol.

So I Changed oil and went for a second start which ran with lots of spitting and popping from the carb very hot exhaust on three pipes. dilute oil filled the catch tank from the crank case which smelled of petrol. Still lots of smoke but not too black.

cleaned carbs again (broke them) got more carbs of ebay lovely and clean.

Stripped head to investigate for valve/bore problems. re lapped the valves, new valve stem oil seals and head gasket, set valve clearances properly,

Went for a naughty 3rd start with contaminated oil ( well it had been sat a while with the head off thought the petrol might fizz off) very short run and got no spitting/popping exhaust did not glow.

Need to change the oil for longer run to confirm sorted.

Oh yes before had head off I could turn the crank by hand with the spark plugs in now I can't.

Ozz

I've been having probs with bike carbs over fuelling diluting my oil with petrol (2.0 Pinto ex-injection), so far I've wasting two lots of expensive oil so just been to Wilko and bought 4.55 l of 20-50 for £6.97.

I thought it would do to confirm I'd sorted out the over fuelling in the garage (not on the road yet).

Has anyone used this oil before and know if its any good? or will it ruin my engine?

I've always been one to buy really expensive branded oils for my cars so a little nervous about this "bargain".

Andrew

That is what I did on my zero

Here's what I've worked out so far

There is no tell tale on the switch but the holes are on the circuit board and with a bit of poking with a circuit tester a red LED has been soldered on.

I've decided not to use the park function or the headlight levelling so not bothered to work out all the pins.

Here is a diagram.

With this set up everything seems to work.

The pin for fog light switch at 83a is quite thin and obviously intended to switch a relay (hopefully with a single rear fog it will be ok)

Hi all,

Does anyone have the pin outs / wiring diagram for this switch.

Someone with a late model ford tin top and a haynes manual might be able to help.

I want to see if its possible to wire this switch into deal with the IVA fog light rules instead of the sierra column switches and a relay.

Using a circuit tester I've identified the switching pins for side lights, head lights and fog light I just need to work out the wiring for the illumination and telltale for the fog light.

Thanks

Andrew

john,

I googled kawasaki green vynal on image search and found martrim.co.uk have some,

Andrew

i've got one in newark if thats any good.

Ozz