ozz

When I had your symptoms on my zero, the adapter was in my top radiator hose at a high point in the system and a bubble of air formed in the top of the adapter which meant that the low reading was the temperature of the air trapped in the adapter. try squeezing the tube before the adapter to get some water in there and see if the gauge begins to read. My solution was to turn the adapter 180 degrees so that the sender was at the bottom. If you have tried everything else it might be worth trying this. Ozz

If you have the sender in the top of the adapter you could try rotating the adapter so that the sender is at the bottom and therefore always has water around it.

Not really my field (as you know) and last time i did land law was at uni 30 odd years ago. What I do remember is that restrictive conevants are enforcable by the land owner that imposed them or their sucessor. This is normally the developer of the estate or the person who divided up their land and sold it in parts. So it is unlikely that you can enforce a restrictive covenant in a neighbour's deeds. It is possible that there is no one left who has any interest in enforcing these covenants since the developers will have no interest in an estate once the last lot is sold. If this is the case where you live then your restrictive covenant probably will not stop you setting up a rival salon and undercutting (pun intended ) her prices. (please take proper legal advice before acting) Ozz

http://www.mazdamenders.net/forum/ rhocar for mx5s

I use my caravan levelling ramps which I run mine up you can then get the jack underneath and jack up on middle of the front cross member. If doing the rear same ramps and jack on the diff. There is a double skinned section on the chassis rails (one either side running front to back) (Not sills - don't even breath on old mx5 sills) front and rear for jack stands. For the oil filter you will need a special tool https://www.mx5parts.co.uk/filter-removal-tool-mk1-25-mk4-p-3324.html otherwise it will be very difficult.

I had the same issue with mine and also after a while petrol started to eat the silicone. My carbs even fell off once on the way to the Donnington kit car show! The solution was purchased at that show from Dan ST a fixing kit with flouro lined silicone hose and thin clips. Never had an issue after that.

When I did mine I learned that the brake lights should be wired in parallel not series. Two lamps in series will be dimmer than in two in parallel. If one lamp in the series failed then the second series lamp would have no power whereas in parallel if one failed the other still has power. Take a live and earth from the back of one light ( or where convenient) and connect to the third brake light. This way no other circuit is disturbed or changed.

Andi don't raise it too high, if the roof needs redoing you might have trouble getting felt up.

I have found the inertia switch and plug in the garage but it is not the same as yours and then plug is different (same colour but different). If you are really struggling you can have this switch https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oyeOl-c1gmsBkq5VCkVO8Q5-wy1u1u9U/view?usp=drivesdk

I may have one but cannot get into garage to check until Saturday.

Legally its a big no to fitting a tow bar to virtually any kit car. As Dan says all tow bars must be type approved if fitted to vehicles registered after 1.8.1998. A non type approved tow bar will breach the construction and use regulations and therefore be an offence. Since it is unlikely that the vehicle was registered with any towing weights specified it will not have a plated gross train weight and so will be overladen if towing any trailer. Another offence. Unless you declare the tow bar to your insurance company, your insurance will be voidable, which means the insurance company can refuse to cover you in the event of an accident. It is possible that with such a lightly constructed car, overladen (see above) with a non type approved tow bar, that consideration would be given to a prosecution for driving a vehicle in a dangerous condition (S40A RTA 1988) which carries 3 points and a fine. If there was an accident the it could be Dangerous Driving.( a mandatory ban, retest and possibly imprisonment) Its more likely to be VOSA than the police who pull you over for a stop check at one of their roadside check points. Having built a zero and had it rear ended I would not be putting any extra load on the rear end or be drilling any additional holes in the box section. I hate tents too so sorry to put a damper on your plan.

Check the thermostat housing later ones had a bleed outlet blanked off with a rubber cap. Put a pipe on that an feed into a raised bottle with some coolant in it. Dont forget the bottle or garage ceiling will be sprayed ( dont ask me how I know)

oh almost forgot it is legal to drive a car without an MOT to a pre-booked MOT appointment as long as the car is not in a dangerous condition.

The responsibility for driving a car with no mot is with the driver. If you no longer own the car you are neither allowing or permitting the owner to commit the offence. As Dan says register the change of keeper on line as soon as you can. Keep a note of the time and date of the sale. The v5 is not proof of ownership only that you are the keeper. The tax will not transfer with the car and ends upon sale you will be refunded complete months paid for. It is the new keepers responsibility to tax and insure the vehicle and this can be done online too. Remember to cancel any insurance for the vehicle too or it will remain as yours on the motor insurers database. You have no responsibility for tax insurance or mot after the sale is complete. On a test drive you could be liable for permitting the use of the vehicle without those things so make sure its not test driven without trade plates and you confirming that insurance covers the driver.

I have annexed Newark to both South Yorkshire and Lincolnshire