ozz

I am so grateful to those who have shared their skill and knowledge on this site without all of them my zero would be a pile of parts on the garage floor.

Every photo I could take would be a copy of a part of somone else's car. I have posted somethings I've found but my photos would just be exmaples of how to do things a little worse than Shaft,Taff, Zoom Zoom, Tony B the list goes on.

If i know something I'll post but mainly i'll follow and learn. Thanks to the Masters for the answers and thanks to the novices for the questions.

Ozz

Hi,

 

thanks for the reply. I got the TFI module connected it contains 1 end of the green wire, which is going to the Coil, and 1 wire is going to the dizzy.. In Holland it is not easy to find spareparts for the pinto efi engine otherwise I could exchange some parts.

 

the only parts I took out are the "clean" engine things, tyubes and stuff for recirculation.

You might be missing the ECU by the sound of it

this article should help

http://nw.rhocar.org/inj.htm

Andrew

when i did mine the pressure switch i got was an imperial thread so the 4 way and unions had to be imperial too. All the others are metric as per the sierra. Are you screwing metric unions into an imperial 4 way?

This is what I know from my travels today and yesterday.

The A1 Worksop through to Grantham is clear, gritted and ploughed both lanes.

Newark is clear from A1 through town to A616.

Newark to Ollerton on A616 was passable yesterday by an work colleague and we've had no snow to speak of overnight so that should be ok.

Worksop A57 to A1/A614 was not good this morning (but better than the radio said)it was much better this afternoon gritted but not ploughed.

Not sure of A614 past Clumber Park but looked ok looking down from the A57 roundabout.

A46 lincoln through to nottingham was fine according to a colleague who did that route today.

I'm on child care duty tommorrow so I'll see if she wants to sit in a finished zero.

Andrew

i went to halfords on saturday and bought an ice scraper, deicer and screen wash and the assistant asked if i wanted it fitting!

Thanks

 

What stops it just popping out the top?

Sorry i should have looked at your photo - my pedal is different no slot but a hole through, so my cable is clamped against the side of the pedal

i used the bit that holds the brake cable to the calliper from a push bike. Seems to hold tight enough and easy to adjust.

Yes I am...

Anyone know if the vile average slow cameras are still on the 46??

Andi

40 mph speed limit all the way from widmerpool to newark due to the road works sorry!

this is a bit of an experiment lets see if it works

this is a manual for the zx6r i got from a kawasaki forum

zx6r 98-99 manual

Guys.

 

I thought the petrol inlet was the small tube underneath (next to the float bowl) with the black tubes linking the other bowls. I know the tube that Steve is talking about, and did wonder what this one was for, now I know

So what is that small metal tube that I first describe? It is only about 3mm diameter.

Darren

Daz

The pipies you describe are the heater system for the anti icing, i've decided that as the carbs are inside on our instalation this won't be needed.

There is a good schematic here

www.kawasakimotorcyclespares.co.uk

Follow links to zx6r g1 carburetor and carburetor parts

found one in my seirra bits box.

pm me your address and i'll post it in the morning.

Andrew

Hi all

thanks for the replys.

The "new" carbs looked very clean when I opened them up lots of shiney brass and no crusty bits like the ones i got from GBS.

(Now i must be fair here I ordered my carbs and was promised them next week, then just another week and so on by someone who is no longer there. so I went to the factory, its only round the corner from work, and bending over backwards was done to sort me out with a manifold and i suspect a set of carbs from a demonstrator so I never expected them to be spotless.)

so I've swapped the main jets over and checked the needle height is the same.

hopefully job done.

Andrew

Hi

I got these carbs from GBS as a kit all properly jetted for my pinto.

Anyway all was well but I decided to clean them anyway.

I screwed up (in both senses of the phrase) the pilot air screw which jammed in one of the carbs and broke off in the hole.

My efforts to remove the needle part ruined that carb.

I've now got a spare set but these are jetted for the bike.

what do i need to swap over from the GBS set up to the new carb?

my plan is to just swap one carb will this be ok or should I swap over the whole set?

cheers

Andrew

Hi Steve

when I installed my engine i fitted the full fuel injection system (which would not fit in the end)

So I had fitted the engine wiring loom from the sierra so all the wires and plugs were there.

All I did was remove the injection plenum and fit a gbs bike carb manifold and carbs (kit from GBS)

I then connected the throttle position sensor (TPS) from the sierra loom to the bike carbs and everything worked timing wise.

The EEC iv is the engine management computer which would have been behind the dash in the sierra it has a large multiplug which bolts to the unit (many many wires from all systems)

There is a small black box called the TFI unit, mine has a alloy heat sink and Motorcraft embossed on the front. This is the ignition amplifier and connects to the dizzy via a long wire and also to the EECiv. This unit in the sierra was mounted to the front inner wing (can't remember which side).

The injection hall effect dizzy has a sensor and vanes inside instead of points and has no vacuum advance on the outside. I read that the test is to try to turn the shaft if it does not turn then there is no advance mechanism on the dizzy and its the later type.

Ignition advance is controlled by the EEC iv and uses a signal from the dizzy tps and other sensors which you will no longer have, the computer calculates the advance and triggers the tfi and a spark is produced.

I have read (but this has been contradicted elsewhere) that the limp home mode for the engine is provided by the TFI unit and gives 10 degrees static advance if the EEC iv is faulty (or absent).

I think the big box of which you speak is the eec iv and the smaller the TFI. For an advance curve you'll need both and if you dont have the engine wiring loom from the sierra you'll need one (IMO).

I think the tfi unit connected to the dizzy but not EEC iv will run your engine in limp home mode with a static advance of 10 degrees (but others may disagree).

The alternatives I looked at are

1. Mega jolt and edis

2. Electronic ignition from a carbed sierra (hens teeth and lots of money on ebay)

3. Bestek system.

Hope this helps

Andrew.

The autosports lab web site says they do not send out as a gift and will not under declare value. But you dont need to worry because at 76 pounds it is exempt duty, has no excisable parts so all that will be chargable is import vat. Royal mail pay this on import and charge you on delivery and a handle fee (dosn't say how much on their web site).

The posts i saw on other forums were saying up to £40 but thinking back that could have been for megasquirt. Should still be a good saving.

Right, I just ordered my Megajolt kit, to the grand total inc P+P of £76

That is a good price I am probably going to try this myself, will you tell us how much the customs duty is when it comes cos from posts on other forums it does seem to vary?

Cheers Andrew

Hi all

Don't know if i should be celebrating or not?

When I fitted engine and loom I intended to use the efi so fitted the ecu etc.

The efi plenum did not fit so converted to bike carbs.

decided to save up for megajolt and whilst building try to run the engine on the tfi limp home mode which my research says gives 10 degrees of advance.

So today I've run the engine with the ecu (eec iv) the TPS connected to the bike carbs, the standard non vac advance injection dizzy (bosch hall effect) set the timing to 10 degrees BTDC.

When I rev up to 3000 rpm the timing advances steadily up to a max of about 40 degrees (I'm guessing here as only have a basic timing light and have not marked out crank pulley yet).

Now my question is does this sound like limp home mode or could my ecu be controlling the ignition advance like its supposed to.

Any Thoughs?

Andrew.

Hi

What wheel nuts are you using?

The nuts for steel wheels are different from the nuts for alloy wheel which have a sort of cone shaped washer integral to the nut.

It may be that your bits are to allow the steel wheel nuts to hold an alloy wheel and getting the right nuts will solve the problem.

Andrew

Thanks for all the replies,

I have compared the oil from the sump running down on a sheet of glass relative to new oil and its about twice as fast so thats not good.

I have now changed the oil and filter. Then I tried to turn the engine over by hand then panicked because it would not turn! but its ok it was in gear (I've now begun to doubt my abilities but in my defence it was very cold.)

Re-starting will have to wait because i've got the loom in bits at the moment, I will also put some more cam lube on before I start it again.

I think I sorted out the over fueling and timing before starting to tidy up the electrics so fingers crossed.

Happy Christmas.

Andrew

hi all,

I had probs starting my engine 2.0 pinto the timing was way out and a needle valve on bike carbs was stuck. As a result i pumped alot of fuel through the carbs and out of the breather trying to start it. It did start and i ran it for about 15 mins in total getting the timing sorted.

Today i took off the oil catch tank there's about 1/4 litre of petrol smelling oil in it which is a bit thinner (less viscous) than new oil.

What damage to the engine can i have done and how do i check?

Thanks

Andrew

Hi Roy,

The loud pedal on the zero is not in line with clutch and brake and is mounted seperate and forwards towards the driver.

Two bushes are inserted in the tube welded to the chasis and two in each pedal the tube then goes through mounting brake and clutch.

I wound in the chasis bushes with a big g clamp and wood very slowly.

If you don't have the bolt i aquired a spare i can send you.

My folks live in s normanton so i get over now and then if you get stuck before your build overtakes mine!

Good luck Andrew

I have used either wd40 or detox spray to good effect.

I got the whole kit from gbs, and it has kawazaski zx6r carbs I believe.

Me too.

I've posted pics of the problem i had in a thread on efi plenum before (do a search or i'll add link later).

Andrew

i fitted my zero with the efi and found that the plenum sat on the diagonal chassis rail. Without some radical re engineering of the plenum it just wont fit. Bike carbs was the answer.

Andrew.

Hi Dan,

"The standard "as cast" exhaust port exit measures on average 34.0mm/1.345in in height by 24.5mm/0.970in in width."

Taken from page 59 of Des Hammill's Pinto book.

Andrew