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Well a massive thanks to Mr Bob!! Hacksawed the top of the old barrel off, removed the insides of the barrel and with swift turn of a screwdriver the old barrel came out. Have now fitted the new barrel which works great, with even the steering lock working!! Extra Kudos points for Mr Bob!! Thanks for all the suggestions!

Thanks Ian, Thought that might be the way to go, but seem drastic at the time. As you say, I have nothing to loose!! Thanks Again

I can see that being a very big possibility for me as well!! Would I be best cutting my losses and just getting another column with keys?

Hi Guys. Trying to remove the old ignition barrel from the steering column so I can fit my new one, but with limited success. I do not have the original key and so have drilled the top pin. I tried to remove the circlip from the slot on the back of the column, but there does not appear to be one on there. The ignition will come out about 1/2", but no more. Is there anything else I need to do to get this out, bearing in mind I don't have the key? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Cheers, Dan

Hi Guys, In my haste to order some parts from Rally Design I added a steering boss to my order, thinking that I'll need it at some point!! When I received my goodies I thought I would just check the steering boss, only to find that the bolt on the end of the steering column would not fit. The steering column I have was supplied by GBS as part of a donor pack and is of the adjustable type. Looking at the Haynes manual, it should look like this: Sierra Steering Column But mine looks like this one: My Steering Column Now the big question is, was there two types of Sierra Column or is mine from something else? As mentioned earlier, I have a big blue bolt on the end of the steering column, when Haynes says I should have a shaft for a nut. Do I need a different steering boss or column? Any help would be very much appreciated. Cheers, Dan

Thanks for that Mike, I'll get on ordering the parts to rebuild these now. Cheers, Dan

Hi Guys, Just wondering if anyone can help. I only have the backplates for my rear drums, so cannot measure the drum to see what size I need. The backplate is 11" across, so what size drums do I need? Cheers, Dan

Not sure if anyone has had a look at the cateringvan website, but they are putting the repeaters towards the front on the outside corner of the wings. There seems to be a few that have got through IVA with them in this position, so I would think this would be the best position. Not sure on the actual repeaters they are using though, looks like they got them from a box of cereal!! Cheers, Dan

Don't suppose anyone can point me in the direction of a PDF of "Rebuilding & Tuning Ford X-Flow & Pinto Engines" by Peter & John Wallage? Just thought it might be good to have a second reference for rebuilding my 1600 pinto, apart from the Haynes manual. Any other suggestions would be great. Cheers, Dan

Hi Jason, I had the same thought when I picked my kit up yesterday. The cost of the powder coating now seems quite a good deal!! Oh well, time to start grinding down those welds! Cheers, Dan

Thanks for the advice. Think I'll test fit the bits first, have a good fettle then sort out some paint, not going to be hammerite. Only 8 more sleeps till I pick up the Zero kit, this is better than Christmas!!! Cheers, Dan

Hi guys, I'm collecting my Zero kit in just under two weeks and have started to think about painting the chassis and wishbones. My current plan (rightly or wrongly) is to Hammerite Red Oxide Primer (2 coats), followed by Hammerite Smooth Metal Paint (3 coats). Reading previous posts on this subject, POR15 seems to be the most recomended products. These do seem quite expensive, but are they worth the extra cost? In another post Marcus mentioned using paints from B&Q, will these be any good? Any suggestions would be most appreciated. Many thanks, Dan

Hi Guys, Just sorting out my donor parts before I collect my kit mid-June. Have a couple of questions: 1. What is the minimum I should be doing with the engine/gearbox? I assume it's worth separating them and checking clutch and flywheel? 2. Are there any gaskets, etc that I should replace? 3. Should I drain the diff and change oil? Is it worth opening the diff to check for damage (it seems to be quite smooth)? 4. Stupid question time! Should the driveshafts just slide through the hole in the rear drum back plates, or is some force normally needed to remove them? My backplate will not pass the outer CV joint, so I'm wondering if there is something not quite right? If anyone has any suggestions it would be much appreciated. Cheers, Dan

Hi Guys, Should be picking up my Zero kit in June and was wondering if it would be worth purchasing build-up insurance? I'm assuming that this would not be covered by my household insurance, so will need a seperate policy. Any recommendations for this and any idea on costs? Cheers, Dan

Hi Guys, Thanks for all the replies. One other small question, one of the rear brake backpates is still on the drive shaft, but doesn't want to slide off as it says it should in the Haynes manual. The driveshafts have some surface rust, but I have wire brushed this down with no luck. Any ideas on how to get this off and back on once both parts have been painted? Cheers, Dan

Hi Guys, I've just started preparing my parts from my GBS Donor Pack and am currently sorting out the rear drums. Just wondered if you could suggest where I could get the parts to replace the rather rusty originals. For safety I am only looking at reusing the back plate. Do I need to get the parts from Ford, or are there any other sources you would recommend. Any part numbers, etc would be appreciated. Cheers, Dan

Unfortunately not about this weekend as am off on my hols, but hope to make the next one! Cheers, Dan

Hi Guys, Thanks for the info. Certainly gives me somthing to think about. So the question is, how much would I be looking at for a Zetec. Had a look on ebay and seem to be look at about £200+ for the engine. What else am I going to need? Am I correct in thinking that a Type 9 or MT75 will mate with the Zetec ok? I used to have a 2lt Mondeo Zetec, which was a very good fun to drive and can imagine would be fantastic in such a small/light car Peter & Dave - I'm in sunny Sandy, how about you guys? Thanks again. Dan

Hi guys, Looking into building a Zero and have been thinking about the engine. I would like to have a newer engine, but think I may struggle to fund a Zetec, so was looking at alternatives. Does anyone on here have any experience/opinions on the K-Series engines, inparticular the 1.4? I notice that they use them in the Caterham Seven Classic, so assume they must be fairly good. From a quick search on the Interweb it looks as if you can use most of the original items (ecu, etc) from the engine. Main cost with this, however, the bellhousing to mate with a Type 9. How true is this? Would be looking at using a Type 9 or MT75 with a Sierra diff. Any advice will be much appreciated. Cheers, Dan

Thanks guys. Will hopefully see you on Sunday. Cheers, Dan

Hi Guys, Been looking at kit cars and locosts for a while now and have decided that the Zero seems to be the way forward. Partly this is due to a fear of picking up a MIG Welder and also my wife worrying I may burn the garage down! I will need to get the Zero on the road as cheaply as possible and don't have a huge amount of space. To this end I am not going to be able to dump a donor car near my house to scavange bits from, so was looking at buying parts as and when I need them. I know this will end up a bit more expensive than buying a Sierra for £200, but not sure I have much of a choice. I'm looking for some advice on engine/gearbox/diff to use. I would ultimatly like to run a Zetec, but think this may be a bit expensive. So am thinking of putting a Pinto in to start with. Would swapping to a Zetec at a later date be a major job (engine mounts, etc)? Also, Type9 or MT75? Does the MT75 fit the Zero chassis, as the Haynes Roadster needs part of the chassis widened for it to fit. Also, can I get away with not having a windscreen and other 'luxuries' for the time being and then add them after the SVA? Also on the SVA, I assume doing the kit this way I will end up with a Q plate? Is this a problem? Hoping to be up at Peterborough on Sunday, so will have to pop to GBS stand and maybe see some of you guys up there? Sorry for all the questions, but this seems to be the place to get them answered by Hoodie Gurus!! Cheers, Dan