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niduncan

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Posts posted by niduncan

  1. Fitting a relay is best practice, the main advantage is that the current drawn by the pump does not flow through the ignition switch. 

    Do you have a spare relay ? Depends on what fuse box you have. If you have the Sierra fuse box then there might be a spare socket but you would need know which fuse feeds the socket and fit a 5 amp fuse. You then need access to the back of the fuse box to run a wire to the pump.  I fitted a small 4 way fuse box in the engine bay fed directly from the battery then used a spare wire that ran from the engine bay to the boot to feed the pump via the relay. The ignition fed supply will then activate the relay.

    Hope this helps.

  2. I fitted a Ford inertia switch and had the same fear as you, tripping due to the harsh ride. The inertia switch has a normally closed contact and a normally open contact. The normally closed feeds the fuel pump and the normally open feeds a 12v buzzer. If the inertia switch activates the fuel pump stops and the buzzer starts thus giving an audible warning. In addition I attached the inertia switch using a plug and socket, I made a shorting plug as well so that if the inertia switch started tripping regularly I could unplug it and fit the shorting plug so I could keep driving.

    I have been running with the electric fuel pump and inertia switch for 5 years and done 5000 miles and the switch has never activated. 

    I am looking forward to seeing the improvements that you have done over the winter. We must meet up soon.

    Nigel

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  3. I had the same problem on my Series 3. I tried using a one way valve at the rear of the car but it made no difference. I went down the electric pump route using one of these:

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371974766532?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=OUd2zYVDSHq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=-6dTF2wzQl2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

    I also fitted an inertia switch into the supply feed of the pump so that the pump will stop in an accident. 

    I now turn on the ignition, wait a few second and the engine starts on the first crank.

    Nigel.

    • Thanks 1
  4. Good to see you got yourself a car. Is this the type of thing you are looking for, Helen made this from waterproof Ripstop Polyester, 4 meters cost £15. I use it whenever I leave the car unattended. At the front it slides into some caravan awning track that is attached to the top of the windscreen, fits over the polycarbonate doors and is poppered around the back of the car. Fully waterproof and folds up into a small bag for storage.

    Nigel.

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  5. I had to replace the bushes on my Series 3 as the centre hole of the bushes had worn and created excessive play. The original bushes were manufactured by Robin Hood Engineering and even back in 2009 were no longer available, I had to have new ones machined out of Nylon 66 bar. The bushes are 1 1/2" long, 1 1/4" diameter and the centre hole is 1/2" diameter. There are 2 bushes in each wishbone. I also did the grease nipple modification to keep the moisture out and make the bushes last longer. 

    Thought some pictures might help you.

    The original bush:

    DSCF2601.thumb.jpg.bc68fd1aeca9b5081187331bfdc16397.jpg

     

    DSCF2606.thumb.jpg.9767a5765f11ba1e7744061fb1e17b30.jpg

     

    DSCF2619.thumb.jpg.a59f0d80ad34860d58c9bf747a5b3b30.jpg

    New bush fitted:

    DSCF2685.thumb.jpg.1c1db24ff84b1a63d65e38d63e5c5941.jpg

    Grease nipple modification:

    DSCF2631.thumb.jpg.e12a1e97c4d4a36e3e82e1277974176a.jpg

     

    This is the pivot bar:

    P1050803.thumb.jpg.b05e86a970a262c2defcbe152afda734.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  6. I replaced mine with AVO Pro Race shocks - PA160/105:

    DSCF1006.JPG.031a210c5822d078081b411c0a39af3d.JPG

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    16" Open - 10.5" Closed - Stem Top

    1.9" Springs - 10" free length 175 lb

    Note: the bottom bolt needs to be 1/2" for these shocks, the mounting holes need to be drilled out to 1/2".

    They are a vast improvement over the originals supplied by Robin Hood.

     

  7. I fitted a Facet 60104 to my Series 3 last year. The pump had to go in the boot and it primes OK, the Series 3 tank is 8 inches deep. The fuel pump relay and inertia switch also went in the boot. I also use a Webber 32/36 DGV carb on a 2l Pinto but did not bother with a fuel pressure regulator as the pump is only 1.5 to 4 PSI. I did manage to find an inertia switch that had normally open and normally closed connections, the normally closed feeds the fuel pump and the normally open feeds a 12v buzzer so that if the inertia switch ever activates the buzzer will sound. The pump has now worked perfectly for 2 years, the engine always starts on the first turn over and the inertia switch has never activated.

    Nigel.

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  8. Hopefully this might help. I used to use this system prior to converting to Megajolt but I do have a photo of the module which shows the brown earth wire going to Pin 1.

    DSCF0348_cr.jpg.a87dbb886117885b531b3feb136ae14f.jpg

    This was the wiring diagram of the ignition system I used:

    Ignition.thumb.JPG.45f31d19b1b56ffca0594a5fe3a320e5.JPG

    I think that most diagrams are shown for clarity of wiring rather than the actual pin order of the module as the above is.

    Nigel.

  9. I bought a cheap pressure sprayer and attached flexible tubing to the end of the lance.  Put the oil in the sprayer, pressurise it, bung the flexible tubing into the gearbox filler hole from under the car and then control the flow of oil with trigger. Job done.

    P1060539_cr.thumb.jpg.9915da4dcd56c6bee6659056971f5817.jpg

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