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bullfist

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Posts posted by bullfist

  1. Thank-you. Have been busy with work (so weekday evenings were no good), and the motorcaravanners club. Then came down with a cold after New Year so didn't make old-Sarum.

    We're still here!

    -steve

  2. Plastic can be a fickle material - although it is cheap and readily available. You will need high reliability for your gear-wheel, so I wouldn't recommend getting a 3D printer just to print a gear. If you do, I think you will go through a high number of print iterations and failures before you succeed. But if you are willing to experiment and have plenty of time, then it's worth trying.

    -steve

  3. I had issues with the gauge when I set it up stationary on the drive, and then giving me a different reading when driving. I had used the ground connection coming through the loom. To fix this I had to ground the fuel tank sender to the chassis, and ground the instrument cluster to the chassis too.

    This may / may not answer your question.

    -steve

  4. Many years ago I had exactly the same thing on a Renault Scenic - turning roundabouts, pulling out to overtake on motorway - I momentarily lost power.

    This was eventually diagnosed to muck in the fuel tank. Tank cleaned out, new fuel filter, new fuel pump (at my request) - all good again.

    -steve

  5. Some points from the photos.

    1. The catalytic converter appears to have been removed from before the exhaust baffle (mot fail).

    2. I assume the windscreen wipers work properly (probably parked for the photos in the rain).

    3. Box on rear boot, obscures rear view mirror - is it detachable?

    4. Front indicators too short and side repeaters questionable - in my IVA this would have been a fail. I hope it's not a clone - ask the owner what the chassis number is (or part of it and check with Alan - as they all had a similar numbering format).

    -steve

  6. I don't have a hand-brake switch, but do have a "on for 5secs when ignition turned on" dongle which passed the IVA. OK a bit of an over-engineered solution but this is where my skills lie; it was easier drop in a dongle into the wiring as opposed to engineer a mechanical solution.

    -steve

  7. This was forever a problem for me.

    I looped my power-steering back with a T-piece running up to a filler. Used copper plumbing pipe attached to car chassis, and then flexible pipes to steering pump. Eventually after, say, a 1000 miles, one of the flexible pipes would leak (pinhole?). I also found that heater rubber piping expanded, so I replaced them with proper power-steering rubber pipe.

    I had a plumbing tap (isolation valve thingy) as the filler (say 9 inches above the pump) so I left this very slightly open as a breather, and fluid started to leak out of here. So now I keep the tap almost shut, with a plastic isolating diaphragm covering it - with a pinhole in it.

    Seems to be ok now.

    -steve

    (I'll try and get some photos after the bank-holiday if you want).

  8. Ta,

    We all had colds over the weekend, but we should be fit for the Salisbury meet next week.

    Daughter took me go-karting, naturally, I was the eldest of the group of seven - blimey these youngsters drive fast!

    -steve

  9. Go to google maps and type in "accommodation ripley". Look at all the options that come up and read their reviews (and prices). I use this option a lot with "camping town-name". Amusingly this latter option comes up with naturist sites quite often!

    -steve

  10. Cannot see your photo but I got mine from Caterham six years ago. My IVA tester didn't like my originals and said Caterham do some for the side of the wing - so I thought if that what he wants me to get - to pass IVA then that's what I'm going to buy. Probably not the cheapest option and I had to pick a random version of the Caterham model too.

    -steve

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