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flameredturbo

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Posts posted by flameredturbo

  1. 1 minute ago, IanS said:

    Often the hazard switch having corroded contacts.

    Spray with electrical contact cleaner and opperate several times.

    WD40 half works but I find that long term it attracts dirt.

     

    My hazards are fine which makes me think the switch is fine or am i missing your point?

     

    Thanks

  2. Hi, As per the title really, i have fully working hazards but no left or right indicator, my first check was the stalk, pulled the plug and completed the switch on each side with a link, indicators come on but stay solid so thats thrown me off a bit.

    Is the relay for the indicators the same as the hazards? 

     

    Thanks in advance

  3. Currently preparing my car for sale so going through all the invoices etc etc, i knew it had a Quaife box but id never taken the time to look into the detail. Have a got a bit of a pricey gem on the car? The invoice is blank at the cost part.

     

    Thanks in advance.

  4. HI,

    I'm planning to sell my S7 soon so spent the weekend checking it over to prepare it for sale. The chrome has fully gone on the headlamps. I had a quick look at how they are fitted, popped out the glass and cant see how i would unbolt the whole unit, they are fitted to a fully boxed in section, then on the way home i thought do you access the bolt through the indicator hole just under?

    Any advice welcome, thanks in advance.

     

     

  5. 3 hours ago, Bob Tucker said:

    I have a similar setup on my 2B. Im rebuilding the engine right now, but I'd be happy to take a run down there

    from Orpington once its finished & we all get out of jail free.

    These will help....but may also cause headaches....you will need details of the master cylinder.

    A google search will throw up lots of info such as...

    http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Brakes/

    https://www.joesracing.com/master-cylinder-math/

    Hope it helps.

    Thanks

  6. 1 hour ago, maca said:

    First option give all the brake parts a good overhaul to check that all the callipers and cylinders are operating.

    Clean of all sliders disc's and drums, brake disc pads and rear linnings

    Check that all the parts are serviceable and reassemble 

    Test if brake are any better.

    Now for options if brakes are no better, Have you any room to fit a remote servo unit or change master cylinder to suit better brakes.

    The brakes may need to be bedded in again before any improvement is found.

    Just a few things to look at before going in to deep. 

    Thanks, I will get the car home and work through this. 
    I guess the brakes have just been the biggest factor in me putting her away in the garage and half forgetting about it.

  7. 1 hour ago, blue said:

    Hi good to see you still have it. 
    we spent the day trying to get it running then you got a bit disheartened and bought the bmw. 
    when you say the brakes are awful what do you mean.  As in it takes two feet to push the pedal to stop the car 

    Bloody hell, Hi!

    They have no feel and no bite and don’t fill me with any confidence. 

    The BMW is no more, onto an S5 and a classic mini that I don’t think I had when we worked on the kit.

  8. Hi, 

    very long-standing member here but I’ve not posted in years.

    I have a Cortina based S7 with a 2l blacktop conversion. Long story it’s sat unused in my garage for around 4 years now.

    hopefully the time is here for me to get it back out on the road. When I did the conversion I fitted a pedal box. The braking is awful and I’m wondering if there is a suitable servo that anyone has squeezed into the engine bay with success? I’m not sure/don’t recall what it had fitted before but I needed to remove it to fit the zetec obviously.

    Also while I’m here, anyone local to Horsham?

     

    thanks in advance.

  9. I was told by omex that you set the pressure, within a certain range and the carbs/itbs and engine is basically set up to that.

    Mines very rich at the moment but is rather that than lean.

  10. It's sikaflex, says sikabond and sikaflex on the tube, it's the proper stuff but the inside isn't setting at the moment. It's about 15mm thick after I whacked it all on. I'll check tomoz and see if it's set.

  11. I stuff I've used to bond my cycle wings came in a yellow sausage packet, it doesn't appear to state what type it is. It's nearly 24hrs since I fitted the wings and it doesn't appear to have fully set yet, it's holding them fine but I'd not risk driving yet.

    Does anyone know what type I have used from the description?

    Thanks

  12. If it's just an oil return, then the bits will be trapped in the sump by the coarse pick up or in the filter itself.

     

    So you should be ok.

     

    Reminds me of the bits I found in the coarse filter when I did the first oil change. :blink: Yet everything still seems oil / water tight :)

     

    Simon.

     

    Thought so, how can I tell if it's a return or feed though?

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