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chris n

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Posts posted by chris n

  1. Stay away from the air wrench, unless they have improved them, mine won't undo tight wheel nuts.

     

    Must have a dodgy one Ian, the one I got is a few years old now for home, is better than its more expensive Snap-On brother. whips off drive shaft nuts no problem

    whereas the Snap-on gun wont touch them. Did send the Snap-on gun back to them but was told it was all ok !!!!

  2. I only go to a supermarket once a year (Xmas shopping) rest of the time they deliver or send Becks in the 4X4 long wheelbase pick up truck, needs 2 space to park in the one its in and the space in front so the tow bar isn't sticking out park at an angle and not a soul parks near it

  3.  

    Why is it not possible to slacken the alternator mount off & fit by hand?

     

    Bob the alternator is not adjustable on the Focus/C-Max

     

    Never needed a tool to change the belt you can either move tension pulley as Sir Chris said or just remove the alternator from the engine and fit the

    new belt to the rest of the pulleys and just fight the alternator back in to place.

  4. Doesn't look like I will be going for a rack day at Lydden.

    Jaimo, with paint there will be no going back to stainless without weeks of hard work repolishing the whole body.

    It would in my opinion be better to go the wrapping way.

    The end product might not be as deep a shine but it is easy to remove if you want to.

    Yeah Ken is right, once the stainless has been Flatted down and the etch has bitten into it there's no going back

    not even with loads of polishing

  5. Yes it has been done.

    Flat the stainless down with P380/ P400 grit paper either by hand or with a DA sander fitted with an interface pad.

    Degrease and tac cloth off mask off areas you don't want to paint , degrease and tac cloth again. Then spray on a couple of coats of etch primer

    When dry de-nib the etch with 800 wet n dry (no water). re-mask any areas that needs to be.

    Then you can go one of 2 way-

    1/ straight on with your colour over the etch or

    2/ spray on a wet on wet primer and then on with the colour (this is the way I would go) as it will give you a better level for the paint to lay down on if using a solid colour

    or if you are using base and clear the metallic will stand up better on the final Tec coat.

     

    HTH

     

    • Like 2
  6. Membership cards came today at last

    Plan of action to get welcome packs out to you all -

    Membership by post- These will be the first batch to be done so that members can update themselves to RHOCaR 2016.

    RHOCaR officials - I.E committee, Admin, Mods, magazine staff and Area sec's next - this is so they can carry on running the club

    Paypal- this will take the longest to work through as most have paid this way.

    Please remember welcome packs will not all be out overnight as it will take me a few weeks to work my way through

     

    Thanks

    Chris.

    • Like 6
  7. Card update.

     

    The Printers have had to order a new machine from America in the end as their old machine could not be repaired.

     

    this is being set up at the moment and if all goes will our cards will be printed by

     

    Friday and sent out to me via express delivery

     

    Fingers Crossed

    • Like 2
  8. Just repaint the whole car Dan by the time you have blended into the door and 1/4 panels it would just leave

    the back panel and boot lid to do and the price in materials would be the same. As to do the blends you would

    need a clear base coat to act as a wet bed to help make the metallic pigments stand up being that it a blue colour,

    Plus I think that you car was originally painted in Cellulose so would need a Isolate/sealer to stop any

    solvent attacks and bleed through.

    • Like 1
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