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Showing results for tags 'Engine'.
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Hi i have a rover 2.0 t series super spec which starts and runs on tick over but give it the slightest bit of throttle and it cuts out ,. ive been in-touch with with Alan richey who has made a study of the ecu and he told me it sounded like the TPS , i checked this out and he seems to have put his finger on the problem because with or without it plugged up its just the same i need to discover if its the wiring or the sensor does anyone know how to test the sensor before i go shelling out my had earnt , thanks Dave
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After months of not being able to start the engine, despite fuel, spark, air and timing all OK (Pinto 2.0 with DGAV Webers), it started yesterday by holding a rag over the air intake to the carb. Battery has died due to the number of times I have tried to start the car. Today with a new battery, same thing. Car won't start, but as soon as I put a rag over the air intake it started fine. Once it has been running for a few in minutes it then starts fine every time, while it is hot. Any ideas why or what to do? Thanks
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I have a pinto engine with twin webers. It runs quite well under light acceleration but after heavy acceleration the engine and exhaust start to feel like they are being choked. This get steadily worse until the engine loses all power and needs to be left for an hour to recover. Could anyone suggest what might be causing this please? Would air leaks in th exhaust cause this?
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Hi, could anyone help me with info on the best place to get engine mounts for a Zetec black top in a good 2b? I've seen some on eBay for £50 odd, are these any good, are they a good fit? Or are they universal? Thanks in advance for any help
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Hi all I've Decided to go for the c20xe option into the 2b, also been offered a '92 Sierra 1.8lx manual. Would it be worth buying the whole car rather than sourcing a gearbox? What bits are needed from a Sierra to get the xe into my hood 2b I already have a Sierra rear diff and prop. Thanks in advance for any help
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Hi I've recently purchased a 2b, Asking for info on the best/easiest engine instal option? The car currently has rear diff and prop to run a 2 litre pinto set up, the engine and gearbox is no longer with the car. My rough thoughts are leaning towards either the 2.0 Zetec or the st170 engine, or possible a vauxhall red top?I know I'm asking for a lot of info but could anyone advise me of options and parts I'll need ie any conversion kits available to get the Zetec in the 2b?, gearbox options? Can I run the standard injection and ecu? Or do I have to switch to bike carbs/throttle bodies, thanks in advance for any info!
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GBS Zero – For Sale List After recent hard financial worries the car is going to have to be sold and unfortunately the best money following Femsters sale seems to be in pieces, which is a real shame but here goes. I am based in Huddersfield, West Yorkshire M1 J38, M62 J24/25, but will be in Warwick on 20/21 October and London the Tuesday before so can meet up, but funds must be cleared through Paypal before I load. Please PM if you want any parts, they will be taken off the list as funds are recieved, the rest will go on Ebay in 10 days time, first offer to the guys on here. I will post the smaller parts and will agree a cost with the buyers. Narrow body chassis complete with wishbones, panels, loom, brake lines, master cylinder and lighting is also for sale, but not until all the other parts have gone. See the bottom of the post for the link to my Photobucket account where the car can be seen. Engine & Gearbox - £2200 (SOLD) 2003 Honda VTEC S2000 F20C Jap specification, 24000Km. Everything included except exhaust, wiring to suit Emerald ECU. 6 Speed gearbox fits Zero nicley. Cost me to present sate £3200 ECU - £500 (Sold ALFAGTA) Emerald K6 ECU, 10 months old never powered up or used c/w new plug base map and USB connector. New £700. Lambda Sensor - £175 (SOLD) Tech Edge 2J2 system, Bosch wideband sensor & 50mm display pod with digital real time AFR reading. Can be used in conjunction with most of the common ECU systems including Emerald. All new never even powered up. New £250 Seats - £250 Lotus Elise CW runners, slight marking to the lower bolsters at the front. Cost me £350 Ebay Dials - £250 (SOLD) ETB Dial Set. Digital Speedo 80mm, 8000rpm tachometer 80mm, Fuel level, Engine temp, Volts & Oil Pressure. White back, chrome bezel orange needles. New £420 High Pressure Fuel Pump & Bracket - £80 (Sold ALFAGTA) High Pressure Sytec fuel pump up to 280hp with annodised blue aluminium bracket. New £120 Low Pressure Facet Red Top Fuel Pump - £50 (SOLD) Low pressure red top fuel pump kit, mounting bobbins, various output / input size tails. New £75 Fuel Tank - £110 (SOLD) To suit a zero, custom made with extra 2 gallon capacity, central bottom take off and 2 return / vents. Professionally made as new never filled with fuel. Cost £150 Differential LSD, hubs, brakes, etc - £450 7” 3:62 LSD reconditioned 5k miles ago, driveshafts, hubs with new bearings, new calipers, disks and pads. Willwood 4 pot Calipers - £285 (Pete Mar) Willwood 4 pot light calipers with fitting kit to suit Sierra uprights. Grooved disks and pads, all new never used, complete with new flexi hoses suitable for Zero and other kit cars. Cost £420 Wheels & Tyres - £350 (SOLD) 17” TSW 5 spoke alloys, brand new with Yokahama Prada 205/40/17, one wheel has a mark but nothing major, full set of new chrome wheel nuts. Cost £550 Handbrake Lever & Cable - £30 (SOLD) Sierra handbrake and new disk brake cable custom made to suit GBS Zero. Steering Column and 11” Mountney Steering Wheel - £40 (Sold CB750) Ford Sierra collapsible steering column with 2 keys, Mountney boss x2 and 11” steering wheel Radiator and Fan - £80 Standard GBS coolman radiator and fan, new as supplied never fitted Mocal Remote Oil Filter Kit - £60 (SOLD WITH ENGINE) Remote oil filter kit, various new hoses and fittings, never used. Ford Sierra front hubs - £80 (SOLD) Reconditioned with new bearings, assembled to vehicle but never driven on. Prop Shaft - £100 (SOLD WITH ENGINE) Sliding shaft with standard Ford diff flange and 6 hole flange on other end. Cost £350 fitted but never ran, either end can be changed for less than £50 by any prop shaft company. 600 -700mm Long Rislen Coated 16 toothe spline. Made to cope with high speed 250hp specification. Shock Absorbers - £280 4 x Gaz shocks to suit Zero, fitted to vehicle but never used. Cost new £380 Zero Narrow body Wet weather Gear - £250 (Steve8274) GBS Zero Narrow body wet weather gear, doors and hood roof hoops, etc as new never even unpacked. Cost new £360 Windscreen - £100 (SOLD) Windscreen and surround as supplied by GBS new. Air Rivet Gun & Impact Gun - £45 (SOLD) Both used but in excellent condition new over £100 Fan - £15 (SOLD) High speed multi blade radiator fan. Swirl Pot - £50 (Sold ALFAGTA) Swirl Pot as supplied new by GBS Many Thanks for looking Chris
- 24 replies
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- Suspension
- Engine
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I have broken my engine (block or piston) and am using it as an excuse to change from a 1.6 pinto to a 2.0. Apart from the engine what else will I have to change to cope with the 2.0?
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Hi all, i am urgently after a running good 2.0l pinto engine if anyone can assist please pm me details. regards keith
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So here it is. Nice day so I changed my oil for Valvolene 20w-50 on my 2.0 pinto engine. Take her for a drive to put some fuel in her after having very little in over winter. On my way back home so engine is warm nice long straight so give it some loud pedal get to lets say a swift speed holds it for a little them something goes pop? Oil pressure is down from being at 55ish psi to 20psi and water temp rises and LOTS of blue smoke. Got it home not very far like 1 mile driving slow turned her off. Now when I turn it on it still runs on all four cylinders but now making a clattering noise. (I think it sounds to be coming from cyl4 area) Took cam cover off and everything looks fine there. Any ideas? Please help.
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Hi chaps, Can I change the Zetec sump to a Raceline with the engine in the chassis? Hopefully this will be a simple question to answer. I need to know if I should order the raceline sump at this point in the build if I don't have to. The reason being is that my paycheck won't stretch that far for my Easter break when I'm taking a week off work...and want lots to do. Has anyone gone down this path? Every build I've seen seems to do it off the car. Cheers Chris
- 11 replies
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- sump chassis
- engine
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Hi All, I wanted to source some opinion first before I go any further. I have managed to get hold of a whole 1992 sierra sapphire which I am currently in the process of slowly dismantling. I have only had about 2 full days and a number of cold evenings to look at it so I've just been taking doors and accessories apart. Anyway, when I got the car, it started fine and I managed to drive it onto the drive without any issue. Come about a month later, I cannot get the bloody thing to start (it's the 2.0l DOHC if anybody is interested). I am pretty much certain that the problem is on the electrical side, suspecting either the distributor or the coil. It cranks, smells of petrol but won't start. My question is this: Should I bother to try and fix the engine where it is and delay taking the car apart or should I simply strip the donor, get all the bits and try and get it working once it is outside of the car? Annoyingly, it is a proper faff to check things like spark plugs as I'd have to take off the whole inlet manifold to get near it. I intend to fully strip down the engine once I've got it out and clean everything. My worry is that it'll be even harder to figure out what is wrong once I have it out of the car. It had about every conceivable accessory so I've got alarms, electric windows, bulb failure lights to try and get out of the loom before I get near the bits I'm interested in. Thoughts please! Andrew