Progress

[Guest docter fox]

you should have seen the purple colour it came out first time similar to your "bender black"

 

I didn't bother painting the red arches as I knew I was picking some carbon ones up at stoneleigh

 

it had 2 coats of etch primer, 2 or grey primer, flatted that smooth then 3 of topcoat, then sanding all the topcoat off and put another 2 coats of primer on and followed by another 3 coats of a different blue

 

PS. I'm still using the dodgy camera...

[Guest docter fox]

although I did sort the clutch out- fitted the new bigger quadrant over the rebuild, and the automatic adjuster thing was a bit clonky , first few miles it was ok but pulling into the petrol station, it gave way... the teeth on it aren't man enough to take the strain, after playing about with it we decided the automatic adjusting thing was crap, so we ditched the teeth...

 

we removed the lil thing with teeth on ( B ) and simply drilled a hole and put a bolt through the plastic quadrant ( A ), admittedly we got the hole a lil high up so we used a manual adjustment in the form of nuts around the bolt to act as spacers, it's got a lot better feel now

[Guest gordon_macnab]

This may work for the short term but I think the problem is more to do with the amount of force required on the cable/linkage rather than the quadrant and adjuster.

 

All that you have done now is move the weak point to another area, which may in time be the whole plastic quadrant breaking up or the bolt bending or both.

 

The clutch should be free enough to enable the pedal to be operated by hand without too much effort.

 

Have you used a new cable and is it routed ok without too many bends?

 

I've previously done similar things but nothing really worked till I put a new cable on and made sure it run smoothly. The innner sheathing on the cable had worn and melted from the exhaust heat even though it was well insulated.

[Guest salty_monk]

You'll have to watch it now you've taken the auto adjust out of it. I've had 4 different quadrants fitted & none had the problems yours has had, reckon you just got a dodgy one...

 

Dan

[Guest chris brown]

This may work for the short term but I think the problem is more to do with the amount of force required on the cable

I'm inclined to agree James try a new cable, quadrant and pawl. My quadrant is bigger than the one you have (built up) and have no problems except I could never operate it by hand as Gordon suggests

[Guest docter fox]

where did my reply to gordans post go? anyone else see it?

 

the cable moves freely, it's a new quadrant so I'm just putting it down to them being dodgy teeth on the start of it, it's not going to bend the bolt but if the plastic quadrant doesn't stand up to it then I suppose I'll just have to replace it

 

dodgy thing- typical!

 

I'm taking the head off today so this is a lil down the list now anyway

[Guest docter fox]

UPDATE: overheated engine first day on the road, water pissing out of a hole in the rad, took head off today, gasket is ok, suspect internal crack in head?

[Longboarder]

Check the head for flatness of the gasket face. They can warp. Might it just have been the hole in the rad causing it to overheat?

 

Nigel

[Guest docter fox]

unfortunately I had enough pressure to also blow a hose off once topped up the water was pissing out of the hole in the rad in bursts as if it was in time with the pistons...

 

took the head off the spare engine, cleaned it all up, swapped everything over and put it back on, it fired up but I'm waiting until tomorrow to see how it runs

 

unfortunately, this means I am now high lift cam-less, thought about swapping it over first but I just want it back on the road asap but just means I'll need to bring "project porting injection head" forward a lil bit

[Guest salty_monk]

Get it licked over just in case it's warped. You might want to get them to take a bit more off.. bring the CR up a little. Worked out ok for Sir Chris...

 

Dan

[Longboarder]

Strip down the suspect head, carefully keeping each cylinders followers, valves, springs etc together and numbered. Inspect the parts to see if any need replacing.

I assume the head is unleaded. Take it to a machine shop and have it cleaned, crack tested and if OK three angle seats and a skim. According to Vizzard 60 thou gives 10.2 CR and is absolutely safe, 80 thou gives 10.5 CR (ideal) but can leave the plug electrodes proud and pistons may contact them. You can now happily port this head and work on the chambers to produce your perfect head.

 

If this head is unleaded just get it cleaned, crack tested and if OK planed flat for refitting.

 

Nigel

[Guest docter fox]

the head isn't unleaded

 

I plan to strip an unleaded head down at the same time as the nackered one with my cam in, I'd like to get it planed, probably 60 thou then?, but can I attempt the 3 angle valve seats myself? I was going to try the rest of it myself, any info or tips will be gratefully recieved perhaps photos or even a Nigelgram

 

I was thinking I'll practise the porting on the nackered head first, just to try and see what things are like and how best to do it etc...

 

Thanks

James

[Guest docter fox]

just got back in from a ride out

 

although the engine appears to be running v hot... the temp gauge (that was probably cooked when the engine overheated says 60 (used to run at 80) but I'm inclined to believe it as the heater seemed a lot colder too, this leads to a fault with the ignition? have just altered the timing and waiting for it to cool down before heading out again to try it, any ideas? the manifold looks a lot hotter than it used to be and so is the rocker box

[Longboarder]

Three angle valve seats not something you can do at home with the dremel. Machine shop won't charge much for them if they are skimming the head as well. The rest of the work takes time but can be done at home. Dave Andrews did a very good article to download on his website here.

 

Nigel

[Guest docter fox]

have you got a rough idea on price? and perhaps any idea's about why my engine is still running hot?