New Series 3a

[Guest roundy]

We've just purchased a Robin Hood 3A - very happy, lovely looking machine!

 

We have run into a few problems though!

 

Firstly we have a horrible banging noise when when go over bumps on the road - to me it sounds like the transmission hitting the chassis...?

 

The ends of the track tods rub on the wheels at full lock...

 

And this is the weirdest one....

 

We were driving along and it appeared to run out of fuel, although we filled her up with more than enough and it still would not run...? The only way we can get the engine to run is if we feed the engine from a jerry can... I have a feeling that the inside pipe in the tank may have broken as if you jack the rear up it will run!

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated....

 

Thanks!

[steve in stockport]

will it run with the filler cap off?

 

sometimes the tanks cant breathe and get vac locked - if this is the case you'll need to fit a breather to the tank

 

could also possibly be a weak fuel pump that copes when gravity is helping it out ie rear end raised or jerry can held up

 

Steve

[agent_zed]

just thinking about the track rods end rubbing and wondered whether they are on the wrong way if they are left and right handed like the seirra ones. just a thought.

[Guest roundy]

just thinking about the track rods end rubbing and wondered whether they are on the wrong way if they are left and right handed like the seirra ones. just a thought.

 

Thats what I was thinking as if they were round the other way they would not foul.....

 

Is there much sideways movement in the track rod itself as this would have to move a bit for the change in angle...

 

Cheers guys...

[Guest roundy]

Is it normal for the tank feed to be on the side about half way up the tank? Seems weird not to have the feed at the bottom of the tank?

[Joel]

Is it normal for the tank feed to be on the side about half way up the tank? Seems weird not to have the feed at the bottom of the tank?

 

Depends what's on the other side (i.e. internal). Last time I checked petrol still couldn't defy gravity, so I assume your tank feed would have an internal pipe extension that reaches down to the base of the the tank. Pretty weird though, I have to agree

 

Regarding the banging noise, can you recreate it when the car's stationary, by bouncing it up and down or whatever?

[Swan Jnr]

regarding the banging, i know this sounds a bit obvious but have you had a look under the car? my old 2b did this when i first got it and it was the rear suspension. (due to my being more lardy then its previous owner) as soon as you looked underneath the car it was clear where this had been worn by those scrapes on the road.

 

just a thought

[Guest roundy]

regarding the banging, i know this sounds a bit obvious but have you had a look under the car? my old 2b did this when i first got it and it was the rear suspension. (due to my being more lardy then its previous owner) as soon as you looked underneath the car it was clear where this had been worn by those scrapes on the road.

 

just a thought

 

It defo feels like something knocking against the chassis - in fact to be more precise it feels like the gear box fouling the transmission tunnel. You can feel it through your feet and backside!

[Snapperpaul]

The standard fuel gauge and pickup tube are to short as standard, either remove and lengthen it by cutting tube in half and using sone fuel hose and jubilee clips or keep it half full at least.

 

Banging could be gearbox mount flexing or broken. With the series 3 if it was built with the gearbox to far back then its an awkward job to move the gearbox, engine and mounting sleds forward, but if the gearbox is hitting the sides of the tunnel then the cure is to move the whole lot forward.

 

First off try solid mounting the gearbox by passing the rubber mount, if this cures it then you need a new gearbox mount. Also check to see if the gearbox support bracket has been fitted, this is just a bit of angle stainless running from side to side just infront of the gearbox mount, sometimes a little bit of the gearbox web at the bottom needs to be releved with an angle grinder otherwise it bangs on the angle.

 

Fill in your location, someone may be close to you.

[Guest roundy]

The standard fuel gauge and pickup tube are to short as standard, either remove and lengthen it by cutting tube in half and using sone fuel hose and jubilee clips or keep it half full at least.

 

Banging could be gearbox mount flexing or broken. With the series 3 if it was built with the gearbox to far back then its an awkward job to move the gearbox, engine and mounting sleds forward, but if the gearbox is hitting the sides of the tunnel then the cure is to move the whole lot forward.

 

First off try solid mounting the gearbox by passing the rubber mount, if this cures it then you need a new gearbox mount. Also check to see if the gearbox support bracket has been fitted, this is just a bit of angle stainless running from side to side just infront of the gearbox mount, sometimes a little bit of the gearbox web at the bottom needs to be releved with an angle grinder otherwise it bangs on the angle.

 

Fill in your location, someone may be close to you.

 

Thanks for the pointers, I will take a look. How do I go about working on the transmission - the chassis appears to cover the underside?

[Snapperpaul]

If you ever need to change the gearbox, it's engine out but to be honest its not a big deal as long as you have a crane and a weekend free.

 

I put the car on axle stands all round then you can get a good look down the sides of the tunnel, also take the gearlever gator off and you can see a fair bit from ontop.

 

If the propshaft goes all the way in to the gearbox then it is probably to far back, should have a good inch to inch and a half showing.

If you get under the car then on the series 3 there were 2 sets of pre cut holes for the 4 speed box and the 5 speed box, if you have a five speed then the first set may well have been cut out, any extra holes mea that the builder has modified the position away from factory settings.

As i remember when i had a gearbox to tunnel problem it was the rear right lower down touching on gear shifts, i moved the box 10 to 15mm forward and the problem was gone.

 

There are many possible solutions so start with the easy ones such as new rubber gearbox mount and check the gearbox support crossmember.

 

You could lift the carpets and mod the tunnel from the outside, probably the easiest approach..

 

Or modify the engine mount boxes to set the whole lot forward.

 

Check the exhaust manifold to see wether it it central to the exit hole in the side panel.

[Snapperpaul]

Track rods, first check, as agent zed said whether they are on the right way, should bend forward, if they are correct then an easy solution is a set of thin wheel spacers 3mm to 5mm just make sure you have enought thread left for the nuts.

 

What wheels and tyre sizes have you got, also look for the ET stamped on the rim somewere.

[Guest john]

I see your'e in Tadley. Thats my patch.

 

Drop me a PM with some contact info....email or phone number, and we'll get the crew round !

[Guest roundy]

How big is the mission to change the gear box mount? What's involved?

 

Have solved the fuel problem now, replaced the fuel line and all is well!

Edited August 14, 2007 by roundy

[Snapperpaul]

Gearbox mount removal is easy.

 

1. Jack up and support car on 4 good axle stands

2. undo large central gearbox bolt, should have a large 3" bell with it.

3. Jack up gearbox, this should leave the gearbox mount bolted to the tunnel floor.

4. unbolt the 2 mount bolts and put to one side

5. slightly lift and rotate mount, if the gearbox is high enough above the mount ( 2 inches or so) you should be able to drop it out or fiddle it forward enough to remove it.

 

Replacement should be the reverse of removal but i put the mount on the gearbox finger tight then lowered the lot, the mounting bolts should fit easily but i had to use a screwdriver to line up the holes.

Then tighted the centre bolt, on the Sierra it has an earth strap from the centre bolt to one of the mounting bolts, then tighten the 2 mounting bolts, Job done.