Poorly Pinto

[Guest solcol]

I have a 2L pinto with delorto twin 40's.

 

End of last year whilst out on a run the power suddenly dropped and started big missfire. Got home but on the way back the temperature guage and oil pressure guage went barmy. The engine used to start really easy with just 3 pumps of the gas pedal, but when the missfire started it was a struggle, and the choke had to be fully out just to get it started and keep it running.

 

Tried to start recently but wont fire. Seems to turn ok, and is nearly there.

 

Done a compression test whilst cold, and showing 1.5 bar (i think was the scale) on cylinders 1 & 2, 8 on 3, and 6 on 4.

 

My initial thoughts are head gasket as I did cook the engine and kept over heating all summer (now bought a coolman to fit).

 

Whats the generally opinion???? Could it be worse than just the gasket?

 

Cheers

[Guest john]

Sounds like you've hit the nail on the head to me

[Guest chris brown]

Next job is to remove the head

[Guest Ian & Carole]

Sounds like head gasket to me aswell.

 

Not the end of the world though.

 

Ian J

[Guest solcol]

Cheers. Ive got the gasket set.

 

Is it just as simple then as taking the head off (making a mark of the belt position) and changing the gasket?

 

Thanks

[Andy Spencer]

Not far off.

Best get a Haynes manual to talk you through exactly.

 

Its basically a case of removing exh manifold, cam cover, ensuring engine is at No1 TDC with cam pulley marks aligned, removing cambelt from said pulley, disconnecting ancillaries (hoses, cables etc), undoing head bolts and removing (I'm sure there's a few other bits of detail I've missed). I always took head off with inlet manifold on as its a fiddle to remove with engine in).

 

Its not a difficult job but you may wish to think about other things to do while head is off (decoke, clean up of head (valves, ports etc), valve stem seals etc etc.

 

Good luck

Andy

[Guest chris brown]

Not far off.

Best get a Haynes manual to talk you through exactly.

 

Its basically a case of removing exh manifold, cam cover, ensuring engine is at No1 TDC with cam pulley marks aligned, removing cambelt from said pulley, disconnecting ancillaries (hoses, cables etc), undoing head bolts and removing (I'm sure there's a few other bits of detail I've missed). I always took head off with inlet manifold on as its a fiddle to remove with engine in).

 

Its not a difficult job but you may wish to think about other things to do while head is off (decoke, clean up of head (valves, ports etc), valve stem seals etc etc.

 

Good luck

Andy

I would also recommend replacing the cambelt at the same time, not much more to do just the bottom pulley to remove

[Guest solcol]

Just dug out the haynes manual to have a read. Been and bought a torque wrench. Will get some new head bolts tomorrow and then start on it at the weekend. This is all new to me, generally leave this bit to the experts but thought sod it this time. It aint working, so cant really do much damage (at least I hope not)

 

Cheers

[Guest salty_monk]

I seem to remember something about some bolts are stretch type & some aren't... You'll also need to re-torque after a run-in period, possibly 100 miles but Haynes should tell you.

 

Dan

[Snapperpaul]

Two types of bolts... splined or Torx. 1 has has 4 stage torque wrench settings 2. has 3 settings.... get the manual and use the latest bolts.

 

Worth a look is the Felpro or Adjusa head gasket from Burton Performance ( the felpro is cheaper than the Ford original), these gaskets will compress to 1mm not the 1.6mm of the Ford OEM type gasket, the advantage of which is an increase in compression by about 0.5.

Basicaly free power, but if you dont have a vernier cam pulley you may not get cam timing absolutely acurate, b ut you wont be far off.

[Guest Ian & Carole]

Hi Colin

 

Like Chris says change the cam belt while you are in there.

 

Take your time, clean every thing to within an inch of its life, follow the "Haynes" as written and enjoy your success

 

Ian J

[Guest solcol]

Thanks.

 

I read the Haynes last night. Any tips on how to clean it "to within an inch of its life" (lol) and what to use. Is it just a case of wire wool and a small metal brush or is specialist stuff needed to remove the muck.

 

Got the torx bolts on order from my local motor factors.

 

Cheers

 

Colin

[Guest Ian & Carole]

Good old fasioned paraffin if you can find any.

 

Most motor factors sell special fluids that are really good and wash off with water, but NOT down the drain.

 

Emery paper for the block and head face unless you need the head milling.

 

Same paper to clean the faces of the manifolds as well.

 

Good look.

 

Ian J.

[agent_zed]

Dont do what i did when a changed a head gasket a couple of years ago. Trying to be careful i stuffed newspaper in the cylinders to stop bits of old gasket going in as i cleaned it. It was getting near to being dark and it had just started to rain so my dad came over to help me get it put back together quickly. Because we were rushing and light was a bit bad we just threw the head on. After she was back together we tried to start it but it wouldn't catch, and there was a smell of burnt paper. weird

 

Turns out cylinders stuffed with newspaper doesnt work. Had to fish out the burnt bits of paper through the spark plug holes. On the plus side it did eventually work

 

As they say just make sure it is clean. Put a metal ruler across the head and block to make sure it hasnt warped too much.

 

Just follow the book and you'll be fine.

 

good luck

hth

[Guest MJThewlis]

Be particularly careful of the 'ancillary' gear which drives the distributor. There aren't any timing positions on it so its important to make sure it is 'about right' afterwards and then do timing properly with a strobe!