How To Set The Tracking On Sliding Pillar

[Guest solcol]

Hi guys, Im sure this has been asked before but I have searched cant find the exact answer or information, so hopefully someone can help.

 

As some are aware, I have been having fun and games trying to improve the sliding pillar suspension on the 2B.

 

Used the upgraded springs as recommended (8" x 2.25" 300lb) which were not an improvement and made the steering vague and bounch excessively over bumps in the road.

 

Current set up in GAZ adjustable struts, Polly washes and GBS springs. Not too bad but tracking is now miles off.

 

The new washes have risen the position of the wheels and droped the front of the car by approx 10mm.

 

The local tyre place say the symptoms are tracking is out but the can not adjust this as the digital system needs settings and numbers.

 

Anyone got any ideas as to the figures etc.?

Should I just go with getting it perfectly level and go from there?

Any tips?

 

Cheers

Colin

[Tazzzzman1]

H Colin,

 

Glad to see you are more or less back up and running...

I had a similar issue when I took it to get tracking done. You have probably got a similar issue with mine that there is an offset on the rear wheels (one side is approx 1/2" Out to the other, a common issue I seem to recall). All the garage could really do was to ensure that the front wheels were both parrallel and straight, could'nt get a perfect alignment due to the rear offests. Seems to be running fine though with no real signs of tyre scuffing or uneven wear and handling fine (for a sliding pillar!!)

Good luck mate, hope to see you about soon.

[Dave R]

as above realy, you cant set them with any garage gear, as they dont park the same as they run on the road

its best just to run your hand across the tyres, and work out if toe in or out, and adjust from there

[Guest solcol]

By adjust I assume you mean the track rod end either wound further in or out.

 

The wear was severe on the outer edge of both front tyres, with the tops of front tyre being further in to the chasis than the bottom.

 

Anyone translate what this means to a simpleton

 

Cheers

 

Colin

[Dave R]

Toe in/out

Incorrect toe in/out (tracking) is one of the main reasons for premature tyre wear on vehicles.

 

The most common signs of incorrect tracking are usually seen as irregular, "feather type" wear across the width of the tread. This is caused by the wheels failing to run in the correct direction and having to be "pulled" back into line as the vehicle travels. This pulling effect leads to the tyre scrubbing on the road surface, resulting in irregular wear and a tendency for the vehicle to pull to one side. It can also have a detrimental effect on vehicle fuel consumption due to the increased rolling resistance of the incorrectly aligned wheels.

 

 

 

 

The two diagrams show an exaggerated view of incorrect wheel alignment. The top diagram shows toe-in, which will increase wear to the outer edges of the tyres. The bottom diagram shows a vehicle with excessive toe-out, which will increase wear to the inner edges of the tyres.

 

stolen from somewhere or other

[Tazzzzman1]

Hi Colin,

 

I have tried to put together an instruction for how to set the camber, which if I recall correctly is the main issue you are having with your excessive tyre wear. Hopefully pretty straight forward, if not PM me and I'll try to confuse you further....

 

The adjustments on the track rod ends are for Toe in/ out as Dave mentions. this also needs to be correct (this is the parts that the garage can do for you to ensure that at leaste the front tres are both running parrallel.

 

Hope the info is okay.

[Guest solcol]

Cheers for your help guys, mush appreciated

 

Colin

[Grim]

nice image there Terry Useful stuff.

[Bob Tucker]

My sliding pillar had to be adjusted severely.

I had to move the top bolt outwards in the slot to get the wheels absolutely vertical.

Then I had to make up a "top hat" to make sure it didnt move....just like the ones RHE supplied to modify the bottom arm.

Then I had the the local Kwik Fit set the toe in/out to axactly parallel.

Most suspension setups for RWD need a bit of toe in, which is to take up any play in bushes/wishbones etc.

There is NO scope for any play in the SP setup, its all metal to metal.

 

Biggest issue is bump steer because the hub slides up & down in a straight line while the steering rack works in an arc.

Try & set the rack up so the steering arm drops down a little (1/2 inch??) when the car is at rest.

Mine needed lifting up with spacers about 1" thick.

Put glossy magazines under both wheels & junp up & donw on the chassis & watch the wheels....both turn out as the chassi drops, then may come back in again.

 

After that it handled pretty well, apart from digging into the wheel on "spirited" cornering.

 

HTH Bob