Hub Removal

[Guest The Modfather]

Right, I start my next big job tomorrow, changing wheel studs and fitting new discs. Is there anything I need to know that would assist? I need to turn the mushrooms around as the driver's wheel is out at the top more than the passenger side.

I also need to change the rear studs, does this mean half shafts out?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Darren

[speedtripledan]

The rear hubs if sierra will need to be removed i think to get the studs out. The hub nut will need to be loosened and you may need a 2/3 leg puller to get them off.

I,ve just removed all mine when converting drum to disc easy job the worst thing is the hub nut big breaker bar required also its advised to fit new hub nuts.

 

Good luck

[Guest Ian & Carole]

Hi Daz

 

You can get the old ones out with the hub in place, New ones are a bit of a fiddle to get stated but it is do-able.

 

With the hub still on the car you have a really solid work bench, the car .

 

Once your new ones are in place, for heavens sake chech your wheel nuts regularly for the first few weeks.

 

It is possible that even though you have pulled them through as tight as you can, there just might be a couple of thou. still to come.

 

HTHs

 

EDIT

 

Well there you go then a conflict within a minute, I know I did mine in situ time will tell

[Guest The Modfather]

I don't have a hub puller. Don't wish to buy one for just this job, so is there another way? When I undo the hub pinch bolt to rotate the mushroom, will the top wishbone come flying up and chin me?

Ian, I thought I might be able to remove them with the hub still on, but seeing as I need to undo the steering arm etc to allow more access I might just as well remove it altogether.

[agent_zed]

Hi,

not sure about your setup but on the 2b the mushrooms have to be a certain way round. If you turn them round the seating angle will be incorrect for the balljoint and may hit before full travel breaking the ball joint!!

 

Unless you are saying you are just going to rotate the mushroom to wind in the balljoint but keep the mushroom in the same direction. please ignore me if this is the case or if its not the same as the 2b mushrooms which has a seat welded in at an angle.

 

I think you have the inboard setup so if you undo the pinch bolt in theory the spring inboard should be pushing up on the lever and therefore down on the outer part so it shouldn't hit you but you will have to jack the car up enough to drop it off the bottom as you won't be able to lift the top wishbone.

 

hth

[speedtripledan]

Just had a look at my rear hubs and you could bash the studs out in situ, depending on length the new ones might go in

[Guest The Modfather]

Thanks Zed. It appears that the driver's side front wheel is definately at more of an angle than the passenger side. So much so that the tyre is not under the clam wing, but the other side is. Nothing appears bent or buckled, so I could only imagine that the mushroom is moveable, but hasn't been set to match the other side correctly.

 

The studs I have to replace are 63mm long from the head, so I think I'm going to have to remove the rear hub. If I need to buy a puller then so be it, just wished I didn't have to. Never mind, the job has to be done!

 

Thanks guys.

 

Darren

[fry61]

Do you know what type of puller you require? Have several in workshop but our distance apart may make it cheaper to buy.

[Guest The Modfather]

Thanks for your offer, but I searched online and Halfords appear to have one for a tenner, which I must admit is a lot cheaper than I thought they'd be. I was expecting £40+. I'll pick one up in the morning after dropping the lad off to school.

[Guest chris brown]

When you refer to the mushroom are you meaning the dummy McPherson strut which the top wishbone mounts on? If so then it must be fitted so the tapers aligned through the lower wishbone and towards the centre of the car and under no circumstances should they be turned to adjust the suspension as this will cause the top joint to reach the end of it's travel before the suspension reaches it's. The only way to adjust the camber angle is to wind the top joint in ore out of the top wishbone. The angle should be about 1.25 degrees negative (in at the top of the wheel) but this cannot be accurately achieved as the joint has to be to the nearest complete turn.

[Guest The Modfather]

Yes Chris. I had been told to turn it to arrange better alignment, as the top joint is wound fully in. Perhaps I can turn the bottom ones out? Will be going out there shortly, so if you're still on here, a quick reply will greatly help.

 

Cheers

 

Darren

[Guest chris brown]

Darren can you put a photo of the top joint and dummy strut as it is at the moment. If it is in the correct position at the moment then turning it will only make matters worse by pushing the top of the wheel out further.

What locking nuts have you on the top joint to wishbone as some came with standard nuts about 15mm face to face and others were as in photo only about 7mm face to face. If you have the thick ones then its worth cutting them down as this gives you quite a bit more adjustment.

[Guest The Modfather]

Darren can you put a photo of the top joint and dummy strut as it is at the moment. If it is in the correct position at the moment then turning it will only make matters worse by pushing the top of the wheel out further.

What locking nuts have you on the top joint to wishbone as some came with standard nuts about 15mm face to face and others were as in photo only about 7mm face to face. If you have the thick ones then its worth cutting them down as this gives you quite a bit more adjustment.

 

OOer missus, I think my nuts are bigger than that, I'll have to check. I will go out and take a pic but it'll be on my mobile, so hope it will come out ok.

Thanks Chris

 

Darren

[Guest The Modfather]

Here's some pics of my nuts

 

 

 

[Guest chris brown]

Yes they are the big nuts and looking at photo 1 I'm not convinced that dummy strut is in the correct position but you will soon see as soon as you undo things. BTW there should be a M6 nut and bolt through the upright and the dummy strut to ensure it doesn’t ever move. This should have been done by the builder.