Remote Servo's

[garethbowers]

Hi, ive set all my obp pedal box up, but im not too happy with my brakes. I just dont feel safe. How do the remote servos work? Does anyone have a pipe work diagram or even a link to pics?

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

[Andi]

You could go down the remote servo route, but have you stuck with your current set up for long?

Once used to them, you can "feel" the cars response.

That said, it can take a while especially when switching to a modernish tin top every day.

 

 

Andi

[Guest Tweedy]

Hi,Have you fitted the master cylinder from a Sierra servo system?If so this will need a lot more pedal pressure without the servo.If you replace it with one with a smaller diameter you will need less pedal pressure but the pedal travel will be greater.Also if you have fitted new pads and shoes these will take some miles to bed in and give you the full stopping power.I fitted one from a Peugeot 106 in my 2B which works well.HTH

[steve in stockport]

Gareth

have you braced everything up to take the flex out of the floor when you brake?

What ratio is your pedal box, you need about 6:1 between the pedal and the pivot to the master cylinder to get a good feel, there are also some mintex pads which make things a lot better too

 

Good results on the RR, are you using the standard injection set up or throtle bodies?

[garethbowers]

Hi thanks all for the replies. Steve. im using an OBP pedal box mate so not sure what the ratio is tbh. Any ideas? I havent braced it up as yet but im imagineing that that is a part of my problem. I feel like my feet is gonna come through the fire wall.

 

As per my RR results im over the moon. 1st time ive built from scratch. Im .5 over on the pistons so 86.5 iirc. Ported head and blackbird boddies on a home made manifold. Im using mega squirt ms1 extra code. I still havent had a propa go inm the car yet as the mot is up. Gotta sort out a few bits then im away. Catch up when im taxed etc. Hows yours coming along?

 

Some pics http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=26759&st=0&p=205025entry205025

 

Gareth

[steve in stockport]

OBP state 5:1 for their pedal boxes, so not ideal, you'll need to work the pedal quite hard, good bracing will really improve things, I would go from the cross tube infront of the seats and also up the front of the foot well to the firewall cross member, that way there will be no flex and you'll get return for all the effort you put into the pedal

[garethbowers]

cheers steve, im going to have a go at bracing her up one night this week.. She goes in for the mot on thursday so fingers crossed... DWOuld you think i need to brace before the mot? Ive just ordered some sierra rear calipers and vented disks so they should be here by the weekend to. Ive got a Proportioning valve already fitted to the rear circuit so ive got plenty of adjustment. IM hoping the rears will help a little

 

Ive adjusted the pedals properly yesterday and its really starting to feel like a car now. Lookingforward to getting her out.

 

GAreth

[garethbowers]

HI car went in for MOT toaday a past with flying colours. (brake light bulb req) What he did say tho was that the brake test past no worries but that the fronts arnt as strong as the could be (pressure wise?) and that the rear gave better readings.

 

Any ideas? Im using .75 master front and .7 rear.

 

Thanks GAreth

[Grim]

dont you want to use the smaller diameter master cylinder for the fronts to create a higher pressure?

[garethbowers]

no mate you have bigger masters to the front (more pressure,)

[Longboarder]

no mate you have bigger masters to the front (more pressure,)

Er, NO! Wrong!

Smaller Master cylinder for fronts gives bigger force in the calipers. Bigger master for rear gives less force in the rear wheel cylinders or calipers. Commonly .625 front and .75 rear.

And fit some decent pads like the mintex 1144.

 

Nigel

[garethbowers]

HI right swapped cylinders round, feels much nicer now. What i am finding tho is that under hard breaking the front near side is locking up. Any ideas?

 

Gareth

[Longboarder]

First check is to 'service' both front calipers, discs and pads (same ones each side?). See if you can find a fault on either side that might cause it to snatch on the left (cracked or distorted disc) or worse on the right (sticking piston, corrosion, dirty pad). Then I would check suspension each side for play, correct and matched springs and equally set shockers that are in good condition. Tyres and ride heights equal across the car? That leaves corner weights. If the right front is significantly heavier than the left front then the left will lock first.

 

Nigel

[Grim]

i don't know a 2b that doesn't lock the front left first! corner weighting might help, i'm attempting that in a few weeks to see if it makes any difference