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Vauxhall C20xe Redtop In A 2b Who Has One


Guest ickle

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Missing out details like fuses and putting in your dash cut-off switch see pic below. Alternator and starter are bolted to block and thus earthed into the block. If you put battery in the boot then you may need to beef up the wires one more size to prevent voltage drop. See if the pic below makes sense.

 

Nigel

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25mm2 is rated at 170 amps. I would have thought that just OK with the battery under the bonnet. With voltage drop from boot I think it is underspecced. I would still install 40mm2 battery to solenoid and engine earth to battery. Which is perhaps overspecced but tends consequently to be problem free. Anyone ever felt these cables after a failed attempt to start the car or used 25mm jump leads which have become warm or hot. No thanks.

 

Nigel

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I spoke to a guy from work yesterday he used to work for Lucas he also recomendad 170a 25mm cable. I did say I had 300a jump leads he said that jump leads tend to be thinner wire than starter cable and will only peak at 300a for a short burst.

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Up-date ---after a lot of faffing about through my electrical books (personly signed by Edison)I have managed to calculate our volt drop when running 1kw starter @ 0.02volt over an extra 3M run & Nigel's cable would be half this. A 2 kw.load would double this load;but it's still only around a 4watt heating effect.

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thank you for every comment so far been very helpfull :db:

 

ok cooling time now

i have a coolman radiator

i have capped the back off the head

i am not running a header tank (if i dont need too)

 

does this sound ok

from thermostat to top radiator

from bottom of block/water pump to the bottom radiator

t-piece from the bottom hose to the bottom of heater matrix

blank the small pipe on the inlet manifold and feed the larger one to the top of heater matrix

 

yes no maybe ??

 

cheers stuart

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Don't have a heater in mine, but I went from thermostat to top of the radiator for the top hose, for the bottom hose I used the original vauxhall 3 way pipe to connect the rear of the water pump to the bottom of the inlet manifold, then from there a 180 degree bend and pipe to the botom of the rad.

Blanked of the small pipe on the manifold with a rubber cap and I use that as an air bleed when filling up.

Expansion bottle from the neck of the rad

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  • 2 weeks later...

ok i have bit the bullet and phoned dave @ dampertech

top guy with a lot of knowledge

 

he says best to mount the rears with top bush front to back and bottom left to right is that what everyone else has ??

also what do you guys think a good starting point for spring height and damping clicks ??

 

should get stuck in about relocating my battery and making my new boot this weekend then i will get some pics up

 

 

regards stuart

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he says best to mount the rears with top bush front to back and bottom left to right is that what everyone else has ??

also what do you guys think a good starting point for spring height and damping clicks ??

 

on a 2b, top one left to right, bottom one slightly clockwise away from left to right. What Dave is quoting would be right for a Zero with double wishbone rear suspension.

 

Good starting point for setting up damping would be just off the minimum. Add 3 then add a few more to taste.

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I love this stage. It's all coming together. Big bits all nailed together, lined up, lowered in, bolted down and the engine is now connected to the rear tyres. That's the hard bit and the cheap bit done. Just a few minor details like induction, exhaust, sparks and plumbing to go. Careful thought to positioning of things like ECU, expansion tank, routing of wires and pipes, etc, can make all the difference to the appearance of the finished job. It's also the stage where you give your bank account a fright!

Watching with interest. Keep the pictures going. It's all good mate!

 

Nigel

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cheers grim i did think that sounded wrong ish

i am sure the rear arm arc swings front to back not left to right if that makes sense

 

ye your right there nigel the stash i made from the calibra is starting to vanish fast

i was hoping to have a little left for setting up on rollers getting the tracking etc done then maybe new rubber

 

anyways a big shout to dave @ dampertech shocks arrived today and the look sweeeet

he did forget the bottom brackets for the rear but gonna stic them in a jiffy bag

i also had to order a c spanner for adjusting the springs hopefully get them before the weekend

and could have the rear on the boot built the battery inplace and cable run.

 

will let u guys know

regards stuart

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  • 2 weeks later...

dar put behind schedule again

 

it turns out i dont have a rs2000 clutch fork. mine is jammed tight when through hole. anyone have or know the part number for rs one ??

 

also gaz shocks dont fit the front bottom bracket. bracket to narrow can new ones be bought or do i have to make em ???

 

once these issues sorted

engine should be in

suspension should be on

boot should be built

electrics should be connected

 

just need to wait on manifold plate to mount carbs

then ignition managment

 

so not to far away now

will ad pics when worth taking pics :-)

 

regards stuart

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Clutch Arm

 

The bottom mounts can be reshaped to fit the Gaz shocks if you are using the 3/8 bolts and spacers, but if you are going to fit 1/2"/M12 there won't be much metal left after opening out the holes so it may be best to get some new ones made up.

 

Here's how I did mine

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thanks again steve i did think that was the case for the front shocks dave did supply sleeves for the front shocks and the rear on my zimmers are already m12.

 

i have now got the ford number for the fork 1438283 will phone them in the morning

 

 

cheers stuart

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