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2B Pinto To Zetec - Brake Servo/pedals


Guest Dave Skirrow

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Guest Dave Skirrow

I have a feeling I might be making a few of these threads...

 

Has anyone managed to keep the brake servo and existing pedal setup without messing with them too much?

 

Assume this will mean a longer prop and moving everything forward a bit?

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not done a zetec, only a duratec change.... consider removing the servo, you dont need it, and i think there is better feel to the pedal without it....and loosing it may buy you enough room

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If you keep the gearbox in the same position, it will serve the following functions:

 

1. It will give you a datum point within the engine bay

2. You won't have to buy a new propshaft

3. You won't have to re-position the gearbox mounting either

 

As I understand, the bell housing bolt pattern is universal, so a type 9 or MT75 will bolt straight on, but you may have to modify the clutch arm on the MT75

If you move the gearbox forward, this may have an impact on your gear lever position with the resulting headache with the tunnel top.

 

Just some thoughts, I'm sure someone with far more knowledge and experience will give some more accurate/reflective advice

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If you fit a floor mounted pedal box like I had to, give yourself plenty of time, it's been the single most difficult job in my conversion.

You'll have to cut into the bulkhead at the footwell which if slanted is hard, (impossible with an engine in the bay) you'll have to drill and bolt it to the floor pan ofcourse which is also a challenge due to space and the stainless steel mine is made from. Then! You'll have to modify the pedal box to allow for clutch and throttle cable, the best part is you'll not know if it works till the engine is in either!

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Depending on which route you go with the water rail and thermostat you may need to chop and reposition the crossmember just above the bellhousing.

If you're doing that then fitting a zero pedal box isn't much more work as you weld in the mounts etc with the other bits.

Or you can pop over to Hazel Grove and have a look at my solution which isn't to hard to replicate.

No servo and decent pads makes the driving experience much better

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Guest Dave Skirrow

Cheers guys, much to think about there. Doesn't sound like keeping the servo/pedals is really an option then. Was hoping to avoid that whole aspect of it but if they have to go they have to go.

 

Despite the engine now being in my garage, I'm thinking of enjoying the summer with the pinto in and starting this in autumn. Don't think I'll get it done by April and don't want the car to be in bits when the sun comes out!

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Guest Dave Skirrow

Steve, I'm only in Cheadle, so yeah, it would be much appreciated if I could come and have a look at yours, maybe when the pinto is out and I can see what's going on.

 

Also, can I avoid cutting the chassis rail if I use the reto ford water rail thing? Not sure £200 if worth being able to avoid a bit of cutting and welding but I'm weighing up my options still, if there is a quick and easy way of getting it in before April I might chuck a bit more money at it!

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You can come round any time, or if the weather's fit I'll drive the kit over to you.

Cutting and repositioning one tube is definitely a cheap and relatively easy way to get the engine to fit. you might have to move the servo mounting plate back a little to fit your chosen fuelling option ie throttle bodies, carbs or the GBS plenum but that's not hard.

 

April should be do-able, the first red top install I did took 7 weeks, the second one was 4.5 days from undoing the first bolt to remove the pinto to the red top firing up.

You just need a plan, all the bits in place and some help. If I'm free I don't mind coming over and helping out.

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Guest Dave Skirrow

Cheers Steve, any help would be massively appreciated. Me and an mate have 2Bs but have yet to meet up with anyone else in the club. Keep meaning to get to one of the meets or runs out but never seem to get round to it. Anyway, I digress.

 

I'll start to get the bits together and see how quick I have everything ready. With work and family I don't get a massive amount of time to work on it.

 

Guess I need a to do list...

 

Ignition - I have a megajolt

Fuelling - I have bike carbs and was planning on having a go at making a manifold (assume the GBS plenum and standard injection gives less power?)

Sump - I'll chop the existing one, although I might get away with leaving it as is

Pedals - Lose servo, get zero pedal box

Thermostat housing - thinking of keeping is standard one and moving the chassis rail. Cheaper and less chance of problems

Flywheel/clutch - Thinking 1.8 zetec flywheel with pinto clutch.

Alternator - Not sure on this, I assume pretty much anything will work with a custom bracket?

Exhaust manifold - ??

Engine mounts - ??

Electrics - I have the zetec engine loom so can hopefully splice into the existing wiring without a hug amount of trouble

 

Anything major I'm missing off there?

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Could have sworn I posted a link to a modded CVH sump on ebay earlier, but can't see it, it's a fiver at the moment.

Megajolt limits you to carbs, if you want injection you'll need megasquirt or similar, but they all give around 165 - 175 bhp

sierra pedals can be modded to move th master cylinder inboard above your feet and keep the clutch adjuster

exhaust manifold -gbs

engine mounts make your own, 6mm plate on engine, I've got some heavy tube for the arms and land rover rubber mounts are peanuts to buy

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Guest Dave Skirrow

Cheers, found the sump and have it on my watch list.

 

Think I'll stick with carbs to start with, I have all the bits so it won't cost me much, I can always consider injection at a later date if I decide I need it.

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