Fan On Constantly

[Guest b3nny]

As I'm getting towards the end of my electrical glitches the fans my next task.

 

Basically as per title, if I turn the key to the left just the fan runs and if I turn the ignition on with out starting the engine it runs, there's no fan switch on top of the rad and no wires connected to the temp sender on my raceline water rail and I can't see any other senders on the collect system.

 

What's people's opinions on these adjustable fan switchs from the likes of cbs?

 

Is it possible it's being controlled by the ecu? And it's on completely the wrong setting or could it just be a case that it's just been hard wired to a live feed?

 

The wiring is using the cbs fuse bored.

[Guest Jameslark]

I have one on my 2b and much the same as the cbs one. Only real problem is ensuring a good seal on the hose where the probe wire exits. Plenty of PTFE should see you right. My new car which is A GTM Spyder has a constantly running fan and I am installing a Revotec unit which is inline with a mnual override switch in the cabin. As it is mid engined, it is much more prone to overheat due to pipework length but this should see it right alongside the prt I've just installed.

 

Without seeing the wiring couldn't comment on the ecu scenario but could be an issue. Better to be hard wired to a live in my opinion and then you can adjust it at will.

[Guest b3nny]

I'm pretty sure it is just hard wired as there's only 2 wires coming from the fan which I assume will be live and negative, I'm quite keen to install the adjustable switch as it's a easy solution and looks easy to install I just don't want to mask the problem if there is one I'd rather fix it but if it is hard wired to a constant live and there is no other sensors I guess the easiest way would be the cbs switch?

[Guest Gargoil]

The CBS switch must work ok, or they would never be able to sell any of them. So it is down to your own personal choice on how you want to wire it in. I would just suggest that you find out how your existing setup is wired, before you go any further.

[alanrichey]

My thermostatic switch on the radiator had failed but the general advice on here was not to try and replace it as getting it sealed was a nightmare and to fix an adjustable one. Like 'Larkingabout' I struggled to get the hose back on with the probe inside, so as a temporary fix I just clamped it to the metal top hose. As it turned out it actually works rather well so have left it like that

 

[kevin the chicken]

My switch had failed so I bought one from CBS. I didn't go down the route of trying to get the probe sealed inside the top hose and bought one of their inline housings with the adaptor, chopped a small piece of hose out and fitted this in place. Looks neat and works fine. The only consideration is the adjustable unit has to go somewhere it is not going to get wet and this is limited by the length of the probe tube (this must not get kinked or its scrap) Space is limited in my engine bay so there was plenty of head scratching before I found a dry space that didn't have the vulnerable tube draped across the engine bay. I ended up with the unit on the bulkhead with the tube running along the length of the engine protected by a piece of cable ducting

[Guest mower man]

The probes shown work well if you ease them into the radistor finning just under the top tank mine been on 2 rads and works fine mowerman

[Guest b3nny]

I think I'm going to go down this route as long as there's not something a drift with my fan set up as it is, is it in heard of of people wiring it in to be on all the time? And I assume the fan switch would be obvious to spot? I've had the nose cone off and there's nothing on the rad, the only senders I can see on the cooling system are one in the water rail giving my readout on the koso and one in the filler housing which has nothing connected to it.

[Longboarder]

Fitting a fan switch and housing in the top hose is an easy and cheapish way to go. Common in tintops and gets round the problem of sealing those senders above.

 

Nigel

Edited July 5, 2014 by Longboarder

[Guest b3nny]

I like the look of that a lot, looks very neat and own'ish, as far as own goes on a kit car lol, at what temps do these switchs turn on? Or is it a case of you can use any fan switch with the correct thread for the housing?

[Guest b3nny]

Do you have a link to where I can see these can't seem to find anything or am searching under the wrong description.

[Guest b3nny]

Am I right in thinking that I could plumb the sensor without the housing into the threaded hole on my race line filler neck?

 

There's a sensor in there at the moment attached to nothing, this could even possibly be a fan switch?

[Longboarder]

Raceline stat housing looks to have a M22 thread at a guess from the pictures. CBS do a range of switches under 'cooling' - 'fans'. Several threads and different temperature ranges. If you have an electrical 'thingy' already in there it may be a fan switch. May not be working.

I would drill two 3mm holes in the stat to allow hot water to reach and activate the stat. (I still think the raceline rail is poor functionally. The stat is down the end of a foot long pipe. When closed how is hot water meant to get to it to open it? Few stats have a hole and jiggle pin these days for bleed/flow.) Wire the fan up to the thingy in the stat housing. Start the engine and let it heat up. Observe hot water can now get to the stat to activate it. The stat should open when the engine gets hot enough. The fan should start when the engine gets even hotter.

Most fan switches have their temperature range for on/off stamped on them.

 

Nigel

[Guest b3nny]

The the stat I fitted yesterday has x1 hole with a jiggle pin, but she still gets to hot when ticking over so I've readto remove the jiggle pin and add a extra hole.

 

As far as wiring the fan to the switch thats there already do I run the wires from the switch and tap into the live and neg coming off the fan?

[Guest b3nny]

Update,

 

I've managed to suss it out, when looking for previous wiring problem I remembered down near the filler cap area there had been two wires joined together to make a circuit and hey presto broke the circuit and the fan stopped, connected these to the switch in the filler housing and the fan cuts in as it should. CHUFFED!

 

Only thing now is on the bottom of the switch it has 92 and 87 which I assume it should cut in at 92 and go off at 87 but it's cutting in at 87. Could this just be a duff switch?

 

I know I'm going to have to get a new switch anyway as 92 is even to low on a Zetec for the fan to kick in but just wanted to make sure there isn't another problem before I buy a new switch.

 

I've found a switch on eBay for a mondeo that comes on at 98 and goes off at 93 would this be the ideal one to get as the Zetec runs a little hotter than most?

Edited July 5, 2014 by b3nny