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Twin 45's Running Rich


lockyer89

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The car had it's first little outing up the road and back after 9 months of the rebuild. Iv'e put in a rebuilt 205 block in with a stage 4 head 44.5mm valves, kr33 kent cam, lightened and balanced fly wheel, 4 branch exhaust manifold, twin 45's.

 

Few little issues I've noticed:

 

I'm getting some crunching when going into reverse, and difficult sometimes to get into first. Not sure whether a new clutch cable will help or to just swap the clutch out for a new one. I believe it's a 1.6 clutch as well, as when i had the old engine out i was searching for a 2.0ltr and the clutch plate was massive compared to mine, so we stuck with the old one, which wasn't too worn. But it looks like that's coming back to bit me now!

 

I got hold of a pair of 45's off ebay. They are spec'd with the following:

 

Main Jets - 150mm 145mm

Air Corrector Jets - 160mm 180mm

Idle Jets - .55f8 .50f9

Emulsion tubes - f16 f16

Venturis (choke tube) - 40mm 38mm

Aux Venturis - 5mm 4.5mm

 

Trawling through websites and reading different posts, above in red are the sizes which have been recommended to me. Just wanted people thoughts really before i empty my wallet on new bits!

 

Thanks in advance!!

 

Couple of video's... You can hear when i drive off in the first video that it spits when in low rev, it seems to run better when revved high..

 

 

Edited by lockyer89
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Guest Ian & Carole

I would keep your wallet tight shut until you get it to a rolling road with some one who knows their stuff.

 

Once the carbs are set up correctly they will be fine, start buying new chokes and jets and you can soon spend £100.00 + only to find you have got it wrong and need different ones.

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Guest Ian & Carole

The std Pinto pump will cope unless you have a really hot engine with wild cams.

 

Personal choice though for little money I have always run an electric one with a fuel regulator set at 3 to 3.5 psi.

 

Also have a second one next to the one in use that can be wired and piped up in around a minute if the 1st fails.

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Properly set up webers such as my 45s have not been touched sense the rolling rd 1000.s of miles ago, mine run 140 mains with 36mm chokes on a 175bhp zetec 2.0l. Get it set up on the rollers or you will waste a lot of money getting it wrong. Once right they are as good as anything

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Could my issue possibly lie with the timing being out? It's fine on tick over and reving up at a stand still, but as soon as i put it under a bit of load on acceleration it spits and splutters. it's fine further up the rev range. Obviously if the carbs are out then yes it will cause a rougher running engine but to the extreme of mine?

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Mine was like that fine on the spot and high up the Rev range but you couldn't hold a part throttle when driving steady, at the time I had 40 mm chokes and 155 mains it made nearly 190bhp peak power but was useless on the road, rolling rd is the only way you will ever get it right. Timing is a 2 second job worth checking to be sure

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Guest Ian & Carole

i need to run the engine in, loosen it up and then get it rolling roaded.

 

If you are still running in your engine miss fuelling could be causing damage already.

 

Rolling Roads are not about squeezing the last amount of bhp/torque.

 

Like Dan says drivability is far more valuable than massive bhp, if it was mine and running like it is, it would be on the rollers at the 1st opportunity, just talk to the guy on the rollers and explain what you want from what you have.

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